07 Honda Civic, Alarm/RS Wiring, Expert Advice

FIrst time installing an alarm in a civic.

Just want to simply install a remote start

2007 civic with factory alarm

was thinking about using a

569T with a HONDA-SL2

Any advice?  Do I have to worry about the factory arm and disarm wires, as I just want to install a remote starter and leave the factory alarm system as it is.  Is there a simpler way of doing this?  is there anything that I should know or watch out for with this civic?

Thank you in advance!

I wouldnt use a 569T one button remote starter for that car.  Honda's Keyless entry stop working while the car is running. So, if you remote start the car and then try to unlock the door from the unlock button built onto the key, it WON'T unlock.  You'll have to use the key, or turn the remote starter off and then unlock it.  My suggestion get a unit with keyless entry.  There are only 3 more wires to hookup to do the keyless on that car.  You'll already be in the area to connect the factory alarm DISARM wire. So, While your there you will hook up LOCK, UNLOCK and ARM.  It's a REAL easy car to do.  Here is the wiring and Enice offered you pictures if needed. 06 and 07 are the same.

12volts  white (50A)  +  ignition harness Starter  yellow  +  ignition harness Second Starter  N/A     Ignition  blue  +  ignition harness Second Ignition  N/A     Third Ignition  N/A     Accessory  orange  +  ignition harness Second Accessory  red  +  ignition harness Keysense  pink  -  ignition harness Power Lock  green  -  dr kick or MICU, 34 pin plug, pin 28 Notes: The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the fuse/relay box under the driver side dash. It has two plugs on the back of the fuse/relay box. On the 4 door models, this wires changes from blue to green. Power Unlock  gray  -  dr kick or MICU, 34 pin plug, pin 27 Notes: The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the fuse/relay box under the driver side dash. It has two plugs on the back of the fuse/relay box. Lock Motor  blue  5wi  DKP or fuse box, rear 14 pin plug Unlock Motor  yellow  5wi  DKP or fuse box, rear 14 pin plug Parking Lights+  red  +  dr kick or fuse box, top 42 pin plug Parking Lights-  gray or red  -  switch or MICU, 20 pin plug, pin 13 Notes: The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the fuse/relay box under the driver side dash. It has two plugs on the back of the fuse/relay box. Hazards  green  +  switch or fuse box, rear 16 pin plug Turn Signal(L)  blue  +  dr kick or fuse box, top 42 pin plug Turn Signal(R)  brown  +  dr kick or fuse box, top 42 pin plug Reverse Light  brown (4dr) or purple (2dr)  +  dr kick or fuse box, top 42 pin plug Door Trigger  see notes  -  ea kick or fuse box, top 42 pin plug Notes: The LF door is green in pin 37. The RF door is lt. green in pin 3. The LR door is brown in pin 17. The RR door is gray in pin 2. Use all four wires and diode isolate each. Dome Supervision  pink  -  fuse box, rear 8 pin plug Notes: Also found in a plug attached to the bottom of the fuse box. Trunk/Hatch Pin  blue  -  dr kick or fuse box, top 42 pin plug Hood Pin  lt. blue  -  pin sw or fuse box, mid 21 pin plug Trunk/Hatch Release  green  +  dr kick or fuse box, top 42 pin plug Power Sliding Door  N/A     Factory Alarm Arm  orange  -  dr kick or MICU, 34 pin plug, pin 32 Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder. The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the fuse/relay box under the driver side dash. It has two plugs on the back of the fuse/relay box. On the 4 door models, this wire changes from pink to orange. Factory Alarm Disarm  brown  -  dr kick or MICU, 34 pin plug, pin 31 Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder. The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the fuse/relay box under the driver side dash. It has two plugs on the back of the fuse/relay box. Disarm No Unlock  see factory alarm disarm     Tachometer  NOT blk/wht, black or yel/blk  ac  any ignition coil or fuel injector Wait to start  N/A     Brake Wire  lt. green  +  switch or fuse box, top 42 pin plug Parking Brake  orange (4dr) or lt. blue (2dr)  -  parking brake switch Horn Trigger  orange  -  switch or fuse box, rear 16 pin plug Memory Seat 1  N/A     Memory Seat 2  N/A     Memory Seat 3  N/A     Interface Module: Category: Immobilizer Bypass Required: Yes Type: Transponder Part #: PKH34 Alternate Part1 #: 1100F/1100X Alternate Part2 #: 556UW Alternate Part3 #: DesignTech 20402 Alternate Part4 #: DesignTech 29402 Notes: Standard on all models. When using the 1100F or 1100X, a software change to 1100HA is needed. When using the 1100HA, follow the type 4 wiring. The ignition wire is yellow in pin 2 and the data wire is lt. green in pin 3.

I found some pictures for you. I never tried posting pictures so hopefully this works

This is the place where you will get your tach wire.  I think I drill a hole for this.  You can drill where the clutch would have gone if it was a manual transmission.  There is usually a large diamond shaped spot where you can drill through. Just be careful drilling as always

In the same harness as door locks is the ARM/DISARM wires. It is in one of the 2 harness Behind the fusebox.  The wires are pretty thin so be careful.

You will only have a power trunk wire at the fusebox if your remote on your keys have a trunk button.  Pressing that button is also how you would test for that wire.

The Horn Wire is on TOP of the steering column.

Ignition wires are found under the steering column cover plugged right at the ignition(where you put your key in). If you need more slack to connect your wires there its okay to unplug that harness.

Also, next to the ignition harness plug you will notice a green plug.  That is the harness for the cars transponder system. If you are doing a data bypass such as the PKH34 from bypasskit.com or any other source,  The data wires you will need are at that green plug.  I recommend the data bypass on this car. I've had problems using a "key in the box"  on this car in the past.  Plus you don't have to loss a key this way.  Its also like a 4 wire hookup. Real easy.

If you have any questions, let us know.  Also, If these pictures land up being to small PM me and I'll Email them to you in the original Size and format(I had to make them smaller and reduce resolution to make them fit)

okay, I was busy posting all those pictures a resizing and you had responded that it was a manual transmission.  Make sure you use a Remote start that is safe for manual transmission.  The DEI systems you are looking at are NOT for manual transmissions at least not out of the box.  Big Dog has mentioned that there is a new add on module 689M that will make that unit safe for manual transmissions.  I'm not a DEI dealer so I cannot comfirm this or help you with that part. I usually us UltraStart brand remote starters on the RARE occasion that I will even touch a manual transmission car.  But Compustar are also manual safe remote starters as well.  I cannot help you with the clutch bypass, since i rarely do manual transmissions, I myself would have to test with my meter how the civics clutch switch worked.  I do have one more picture for you since you would need the paking brake wire, I have that picture as well:

Sure Enice, Thats basically where I get all my wires.  I know You can get the parking lights, brake, trunk release, and trunk trigger in the drivers side running board/kick panel area. That's where I would get them before a data sheet came out. But its just as easy to get them at the fuse box, and its alot less disassembly. I don't touch the kick panel or running board during an install on this car anymore.   I would like to know an easier way to get door locks and arm/disarm wires, if you have a trick for that.

Frank

There is only one thing you can do to "ease" the pain in the back, on getting to the locks and arm/disarm. Drop the fuse box. I cussed when I did mine. The picks in the astrchart show the plug in the kick being "right there" .... NOT!

Your clutch is the orange wire on the yellow plug on the clutch switch. It NEEDS a negative "start" signal. You will NOT need to connect to the yellow starter wire at the ign. harness.   If your unit is NOT safe for manual trans....one thing to remember..........this will start your car EVERY TIME.

Reason why I get most of my wires at the running board is because it makes it a real clean install and keeps it looking extremely factory.  I get almost all my wires behind the fuse box like the headlights, domelight, horn trigger, unlock motor for priority unlock and your usual lock, unlock, disarm, and arm wire.  I have pics for that so if youd like you can PM me your email address and like I mentioned earlier make a fool proof tech sheet for 06-07 civics.

Be real carefull using (POS)+ parking lights. There are 2 wires there that test the same. One will destroy your dash lights....the pretty blue digital, EXPENSIVE dash lights.

This info is per the Astrochart. They have a BIG warning in their tech info. Just thought I'd pass it along.