2002 ex accord, python 900 alarm

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=99405
Printed Date: May 05, 2024 at 4:48 AM

Topic: 2002 ex accord, python 900 alarm

Posted By: frunkis
Subject: 2002 ex accord, python 900 alarm
Date Posted: November 27, 2007 at 6:40 PM

Hello all, great site - thanks for all the information.

I am tracking down the current wiring diagram for my car year make and model:

2002 Honda Accord, EX.
The alarm for the install is a Python 990
As far as I can tell, there seems to be two types of wiring diagrams floating around. One indicates that the yellow wire in the ignition harness is Accessory, another diagram indicates its a Second Ignition. Now considering this alarm has both sets of hook ups, which diagram am I really look at to be correct?

Another question for the door lock and unlock. I have been doing searches (Link to search) for any information I can find and map out before I do the install.

Trying to iron out the door unlock and lock process. I am noticing a lot of talk in other threads that its all controlled by one wire, with a (-) power string. Now this may be self explanatory once I open everything up and multimeter test my harnesses, but does anyone have details on this such of a deal?

Please see the included diagram for the door lock connections for more detail.

I am sure I will have more questions as I keep my research on, thank you all so much.
-Jon

Replies:

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: November 27, 2007 at 6:55 PM

I'm sorry, I forgot to mention that this car is a Coupe.

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 8:14 AM

Anyone have any comments on this? I've done more research on the door locks, without looking at it and testing it it seems its going to be a 3 wire (-) pulse system? Ground, Lock and Unlock

Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:31 AM

It matters NOT wich diagram you look at.....test all of your wires, and it will unfold in front of you like a book.

Locks are neagative pulse. The outputs from your alarm should do the trick without relays.

12 VOLTS

White

Ignition switch harness

IGNITION

BLACK / YELLOW

Ignition switch harness

ACCESSORY

Yellow

Ignition switch harness

ACCESSORY 2

WHITE/ black

Ignition switch harness

You must power the second acc. wire when doing remote start or the ABS light in the dash may light up.

STARTER

BLACK/ white

Ignition switch harness

If you are adding a starter-kill to the vehicle, it is important that you cut the starter wire at the ignition switch and NOT between the fusebox and starter solenoid. Doing so will cause the vehicle's 'Check Engine' light to come on.

KEY SENSE

Blue/white

Ignition harness

TACH SIGNAL

Blue

1-pin plug in engine compartment

Located beside the battery on the 2.3L engine and on the driver's side shock tower for the 3L. (see photos)

LOCK

BLACK/ blue

In passenger side fusebox

Use these wires for vehicles with factory alarm only. They are found in the green connector at the top of the passenger side fusebox. Disarm without unlock is BLUE inside driver's door. For Accord LX with no factory alarm, use BLACK/ WHITE(lock) and GREEN/ RED(unlock) found on a two pin plug at the front of the driver's side fusepanel.

UNLOCK

Orange

In passenger side fusebox

DOORPIN

BLACK/ WHITE/ silver dots

4-pin plug on passenger side fusebox

TRUNK PIN

ORANGE / silver dots

in harness running behind driver's side fusebox

TRUNK RELEASE

WHITE/ red

in harness running behind driver's side fusebox

FACTORY ARM

Arms with lock wire

FACTORY DISARM

Disarms with unlock wire

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:19 PM

Thank you for that information. I figured it was going to be more testing each wire to confirm which I connect to.

I am also installing a battery backup for the alarm, so as far as the parking lights go - should I run then as a relay instead, considering the battery backup instructions warn highly that during remote start the draw from the parking lights could over do it on the limits for the battery? Personally, I am not really looking to have the parking lights flash - the LCD will tell me if the car is r/s or not, so why announce to everyone else that my car is currently running...

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:34 PM

I was doing some more research on the wiring grid provided with the alarm. As far as the harness goes for the lock unlock, it seems some have mentioned that if you use the factory arm / factory disarm (-) leads off the alarm harness, it will unlock then lock the car on r/s. Obviously this is something I do not really want to happen - but it seems that these two wires are the only ones that send out a pulse (-) in the line.

The door lock harness seems to segment between both (+) and (-).

Well my question is, which set of wires (the door lock harness or the factory arm / factory disarm (-) wires) do you recommend I connect. I would think the factory arm / factory disarm (-) wires are the ones to connect, as the 'Disarm but don't unlock' blue wire will be grounded when r/s is activated letting the system know that we are disarming the alarm but not grounding it, which would block the factory disarm (-) from unlocking the doors. So I would be connecting those wires but NOT connecting the door wire harness.

Does that sound like a scrambled mess? Sorry if it does, its late.

It seems the locks are the only thing I am stuck on mapping out before I install everything.

Thanks all for your help!

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: November 29, 2007 at 9:57 AM

Well I am not going to know until I sit down and test the wires on how the brain reacts, but I am going to say it should be put in like this:

factory arm / factory disarm (-) wires go to the lock and unlock wires on the car. Since the factory alarm arms/disarms with the lock and unlock, these wires would do the deed (considering they output a pulse (-) signal).

The blue wire on the drivers door will be connected to the ground pulse wire to tell the alarm to disarm but stay locked.

The lock/unlock wires will not be used (looks like they would be used with relays)

Does this look all correct?

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: November 29, 2007 at 9:48 PM

frunkis wrote:

Well I am not going to know until I sit down and test the wires on how the brain reacts, but I am going to say it should be put in like this:

factory arm / factory disarm (-) wires go to the lock and unlock wires on the car. Since the factory alarm arms/disarms with the lock and unlock, these wires would do the deed (considering they output a pulse (-) signal).

The blue wire on the drivers door will be connected to the ground pulse wire to tell the alarm to disarm but stay locked.

The lock/unlock wires will not be used (looks like they would be used with relays)

Does this look all correct?

I guess it does look fine, so I'll keep on with the research unless someone chimes in on it.

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: November 30, 2007 at 10:25 PM

On my alarm, I have to options. It comes with a relay pack for the door locks, but also has the option to run wires directly out of the brain for the locks. Question being, if I am not going to use that relay pack, what are the polarity on these two wires coming out of the lock port on the brain? Are they the pulsing (-) format we need for our locks?

Or am I going to end up using the relay pack that came with the Python 990 - and if so anyone know how to wire this up? It is not even mentioned in the install manual.

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: December 01, 2007 at 12:20 AM

Well for reference for others, I found a diagram to use the relay pack that comes with the alarm. Click here for diagram

Now that it looks much more straight forward, I have my last piece of the puzzle for the install!

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 10:30 AM

Well, the locks was solved. Now the remote start is being a PITA. Starts fine with the key in ign, the bypass learned the code, every time it goes to turn over it just dies out. I have a couple of other things to try, I know there may be a wire here or there that I could work on.

My whole goal was to do this half in my garage, and using a drop cloth to cover the car and keep the cold out. Use a kerosene heater and keep it warm. Prob. heater did not work, so I was not thrilled doing this in that cold yesterday. Gonna try it again. And since it seems the only people I am talking to here are OnA fans...

LLiiinnngggeerrr Lonnngggeerrr! As I will have updates. OnA Party Rock! :)

Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 12:35 PM

What do you mean, "it just dies out..."

1) does it crank?

2) if it cranks .. how long does it crank, is the security light (i.e. green key) on the dashboard lit up?

3) Does it NOT crank? if it does not crank, do the accessory and ignition wires get powered up?

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The search function is your friend.

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 1:25 PM

peterubers wrote:

What do you mean, "it just dies out..."
1) does it crank?
2) if it cranks .. how long does it crank, is the security light (i.e. green key) on the dashboard lit up?
3) Does it NOT crank? if it does not crank, do the accessory and ignition wires get powered up?

Apparently what is happening is the car will start fine with the key in the ing. As tested even before I installed the bypass.

Once I verify that the bypass (556h) is programmed, I try to remote start the car. It just keeps cranking and the security key on the dashboard blinks, indicating that there is no good key.

It will continue cranking until I hit the brakes, because it will kill my battery.

I just don't understand this bypass, the directions for the wiring stink. I have managed to have three wires (2 datas and 1 ing) to my key harness - is this correct? The ground to start works fine, and I see the light turn on real quick on the bypass and then go out. Errr..

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 1:29 PM

the light should be on solid, test to see if that ground out when running is staying on constantly during start if now u migh have the wrong wire.

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 1:52 PM

tedmond wrote:

the light should be on solid, test to see if that ground out when running is staying on constantly during start if now u migh have the wrong wire.

Well I hooked up the ground input to ground to test the unit it self. I also figured out that I needed to cut the data 1 wire for the yellow/black and yellow wires off the bypass. Now the the key stays solid, but still not start :(

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 1:59 PM

frunkis wrote:

tedmond wrote:

the light should be on solid, test to see if that ground out when running is staying on constantly during start if now u migh have the wrong wire.

Well I hooked up the ground input to ground to test the unit it self. I also figured out that I needed to cut the data 1 wire for the yellow/black and yellow wires off the bypass. Now the the key stays solid, but still not start :(

Here is an update. After hooking up the data out wire (yea, that would make sense to hook up, just like my starter wire problem I had before) the car would not turn on. I did not figure about the factory alarm, because for some reason when I put my key in the ing the locks engaged or disengaged. Something was screwy most likely the factory alarm was ingaged.

So I unlocked the doors from the door control in the car, and tried it again after reseting the bypass. Bam! We got it!

I think closed the doors, locked them engaging both alarms. Remote started twice without a hitch! Finallly!

Well, now its time to clean up my wiring mess, install the siren and the defogger relay. Oh boy.

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 2:11 PM

I am going to post later exactly how this bypass should be ran for others to view. I collected this information from other threads so I want to put it all together in here for anyone that is searching. This way they can Linnnngggeerrr Lonnngggeeerrr and be able to hook it up correctly! Its time to party, I am happy! OnA Parrttyyy Roocckk!!! :-)

Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 2:42 PM

Nice job, I remember my first few installs -- biggest PITA.

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The search function is your friend.

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 6:45 PM

yeap the good old days of first novice installs, true kick in the butt i would say. Endless hours of probing wires, now it all makes sense ahah cheers!

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: December 03, 2007 at 12:08 AM

Well in the end it was fun. I am not one to let someone else work on any of my cars, especially with the wiring I have done for my stereo, etc. I know the wiring, so I know what does what.

This has been my second install, I installed in my p71 a couple years back a generic keyless entry r/s. Was a lot less difficult then this, but then again the technology for these cars have changed dramatically.

Posted By: natsys
Date Posted: December 03, 2007 at 8:09 AM

Did you have to hook up your alarm arm and disarm wires? I have a 2002 Accord, but its only an LX so it doesn't have factory alarm, but my 91 Acura Legend had the factory alarm and after I connected the whole remote start and it worked great a problem developed with the alarm. Apparently the factory alarm sets automatically about 1 minute after the doors lock. So, when I was testing everything I never waited a full minute and never set off the alarm. When I tried a R/S after the car had been sitting long enough for the alarm to set, it would not start and the horn and lights would go off. I had to go back to connect the arm/disarm of the remote starter to the factory alarm. Any issues with your factory installed alarm?

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: December 03, 2007 at 8:45 AM

natsys wrote:

Did you have to hook up your alarm arm and disarm wires? I have a 2002 Accord, but its only an LX so it doesn't have factory alarm, but my 91 Acura Legend had the factory alarm and after I connected the whole remote start and it worked great a problem developed with the alarm. Apparently the factory alarm sets automatically about 1 minute after the doors lock. So, when I was testing everything I never waited a full minute and never set off the alarm. When I tried a R/S after the car had been sitting long enough for the alarm to set, it would not start and the horn and lights would go off. I had to go back to connect the arm/disarm of the remote starter to the factory alarm. Any issues with your factory installed alarm?

The alarm and disarm for the factory alarm disarms and arms with the locks. I had to run a wire into the drivers door and connect to a blue wire which has the factory alarm disarm but does not unlock the doors. I did this because I did not want to have the alarm unlock - start - lock.

Its a PITA to run a wire into the door, I can't believe how stupid the door grommets are and you can be sure I was cursing the hell out of it. I still have to run wires into the door for my window module, but I will wait until it gets warmer out.

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 03, 2007 at 9:37 AM

im sure the window wires ae located in kick panel as well.

Posted By: frunkis
Date Posted: December 03, 2007 at 11:41 AM

tedmond wrote:

im sure the window wires ae located in kick panel as well.

Well from the instructions I read that came with the window module was to interrupt the wire from the switch to the motor for each window to allow the one touch option to function which I guess would mean I would have to hit both doors to have both windows as a 1 touch option.

Posted By: natsys
Date Posted: December 03, 2007 at 3:20 PM

Actually........did one of those on my 91 Legend as well--previous owner LIED about the factory one-touch feature working. New Acura master switch: $325.00; New DEI one touch for 2 windows: $50.00. (Smacking the crap out of the previous owner--if I could do it--priceless!)

You only have to go into the driver's door, but you DO have to go in the driver's door. The switch that controls the driver's window doesn't go into the car and back out to the window motor--it goes directly from the switch to the motor. While you're there you can access the wires from the master switch to the passenger window. The only drawback is that you'll only have one-touch from the master controls and not from the individual control on the passenger door.

To fish the wires use a small stiff wire--I use steel MIG welding wire--and bend it back on itself so there's a dull point. Push that through the boot first--it helps if you can pull the boot away from the car body and first fish through the kick panel to the outside and then through the boot. Then, once one end of the wire is inside the door and the other is inside the car, pull the wires you want to. I select one wire and make a loop with the fish wire and interlock it with a loop made from the wire I want to pull and tape them up good--go 4 or 5 inches up both wires. Then I tape the other wires to the first one making a good tight wrap. What makes it all work real slick is to next slather on some hand soap to the whole taped part. Pull your fish wire through into the door and the rest of the wires should follow along. My legend had the window module wires, 10 guage speaker wires for the 5 1/4" speakers, 16 gauge speaker wires for the tweeters, and 2 more 16 gauge wires for the arm/disarm of the remote start--and there was plenty of room for them all--getting them through was the hardest part, but it isn't impossible.