wiring a solid state relay

Hi I'm new to the whole solid state relay thing and I need help on how to wire my set up

I have a Omron G3HD-X03SN  the link below has the specs on it

https://www.ia.omron.com/data_pdf/data_sheet/g3h_g3hd_dsheet_csm154.pdf

It will be used to activate leds in my car

The set up will have a negitive input/turn on and will need to be a positve output to the led

the reason I choose solid state is becase of noise on the standard relays

Thanks

Connect Pin 8 to positive voltage (either straight battery power or ignition depending on if you want the LEDs to work when the car is off.

Connect Pin 7 to your (-) trigger to turn the LEDs on.

Connect Pin 4 to positive voltage (again, like above either battery or ignition depending on your requirements).

Connect Pin 6 to the + side of your LED and then ground the other side of the LED.

That should get it working.

Thanks for he fast responses

(i am an idiot)<>LOL at your sn....... I should have stated that this has to have very fast switching that might be going for 4-6 hour

(KPierson) I will give that a try

how does a soild state relay work?  I already know that there is a photocell that triggers it

They work by using all solid state electronics (ie no moving parts).  Most of them use some sort of LED emitter on the "coil" side to provide isolation between the input and output of the relay.  The relay "contacts" are then any number of different types of transistors.  The output transistors are typically mechanically tied to the housing or base for heat dissipation, as SS relays tend to heat up much quicker thene electromagnetic relays.

How fast are you going to switch the LEDs on and off that you need a SS over an EM relay?

well this project is kind of complex LOL

the fast switching will be coming from 1 of 2 led arrow stick controllers which both have negative outputs. there is an led arrow stick in the back window and my tail lights will will be park/brake/turn/arrow in 8 segments.

basically its the same thing that's in this video but now with leds

[URL=https://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m299/B_BODY_1/B_BODY_1/?action=view&current=P1040745.flv][IMG]https://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m299/B_BODY_1/B_BODY_1/th_P1040745.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Looks like a possible legal issue to me.

I didn't see any activity that could not be handled with a relay.

If Kevin says the solid state relay will get hot, that may not be a good option for you.

No speed issue in the video, but I would question the lifespan of an EM relay.  If you don't want to use it very often it would work, but I personally would use the SS relay.

The SS relay will only heat up under high loads - as you get closer and closer to the 10A capacity you will need to worry about ventilation more and more.  The data sheet says that in applications with minimal ventilation to derate the relay by 50%.  That tells me the relay can safey dissipate 5A with no issues, past that heat needs to be considered.

legal issue?

the load will be between .25-1 amp at the most

the other controller has patterns that are about 4 times faster

the video has halogen bulbs that have old style relays and it sounds crazy LOL

I bench tested the relay and the diagram you made works perfect, Thanks

I will also have positive brake/turn leads going to each led. Will I need to add a diode to block current going into pin 6 of the relay or does it not matter? I know that I will have other diodes in there too but I'm trying not to go diode crazy.....

this is my demo, show, family vacation, drag strip and soon to be road course car

I sell/install new and used police cars and equipment  

my web site is vetoenterprises.com

KPierson wrote:

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Connect Pin 8 to positive voltage (either straight battery power or ignition depending on if you want the LEDs to work when the car is off.

Connect Pin 7 to your (-) trigger to turn the LEDs on.

Connect Pin 4 to positive voltage (again, like above either battery or ignition depending on your requirements).

Connect Pin 6 to the + side of your LED and then ground the other side of the LED.

That should get it working.

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Re-read the above.  Pin 6 does not have positive voltage connected to it, it should have the positive side of the LED connected there.  The positive voltage connects to pin 4.

Solid state relays can have "leakage current" when they are not on.  The way to get away from it is to put enough current on the relay to actually clamp it down and shut it off.  Try wiring a standard automotive relay in parallel with the LEDs just to verify that the extra current will cause the relay to turn off. 

If that is the problem you may want to shop around for different brands of SSRs - some will work better then others.