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wireless control electric motor fwd/rev

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Relays
Forum Discription: Relay Diagrams, SPDT Relays, SPST Relays, DPDT Relays, Latching Relays, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=134360
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 12:26 AM


Topic: wireless control electric motor fwd/rev

Posted By: 99z286spd
Subject: wireless control electric motor fwd/rev
Date Posted: June 12, 2013 at 9:13 PM

I am looking to wire my 12v motor DPDT switch controlled landing gear on my fifth wheel trailer to a wireless control. I bought a 2 channel wireless control on eBay. I do believe it has the option of pos or neg output trigger.
I'm sure ill need relays to control the switching polarity for up and down with the two channel outputs of the wireless control. Can anyone clarify how to do this for me?? I have a basic understanding of relays but I think I'm making this harder than it needs to be.
Here's my motor setup:

posted_image

Here's my controller:
eBay.com. Item # 160957049591
Sorry, I don't know why the web link won't post



Replies:

Posted By: 99z286spd
Date Posted: June 12, 2013 at 9:43 PM
I just found this online if anyone can verify this will switch polarity for up and down operation and allow use of the hard wired switch. Can anyone name the respective contact numbers this is referring to? 86 87 85 etc...?

posted_image




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 12, 2013 at 10:44 PM
Alternatively look at the relay section above, door locks, 5 wire alternative, the wires marked NEG lock unlock from alarm correspond to your remote control NEG outputs.
Motor wires from the switch are cut and go to 87a switch side, 30 motor side or this, note the 1N4004 diodes, to protect your remote control circuitry:-
motor_control.bmp
Note, this is an almost "universal" diagram, you can substitute, window closers, door locks, etc. etc. for the motor.
Don't forget to adequately fuse the power supply and switch plus the smaller spur off fuse for the Remote receiver.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: 99z286spd
Date Posted: June 12, 2013 at 10:55 PM
Thanks Howie. I noted the use of diodes and fuses. The circuit that is currently Installed is protected by a 30A circuit breaker. I will add fused protection to the new wireless controller.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 12, 2013 at 10:59 PM
Good, a fuse of say 3-5 amps would be much cheaper than a new receiver.
There are"experts" here including myself who would be damned liars if they denied that they've ever miswired a relay!.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 12, 2013 at 11:01 PM
By the way, if you take the wires at 87a to ground you can even get rid of the switch and run the motor directly from the relay.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: 99z286spd
Date Posted: June 12, 2013 at 11:49 PM
I would like to keep the switch in the system for manual operation of the landing gear (stand there and hold the button) in case the remote ever gets lost or dies. Thank you for your help.

Leon




Posted By: 99z286spd
Date Posted: June 13, 2013 at 4:22 PM
Ok so I have a problem now.... The wireless control won't work unless I ground the wires from pin 87a switch side.. It will work with the switch but not wireless. Then when I ground those wires it works wireless but not switched... Help!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 13, 2013 at 5:22 PM
Check your wiring.
It's pretty straight forward.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: dlmrun2002
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 8:57 AM
Looks like similar plan I am trying to work out. Installed remote door locks and power windows in 1974 car. Door locks work fine with remote. Power windows use a spal 5 wire switch. Kit works fine but I am trying to use the 3rd and 4th leg output of my remote system to power windows up and down. Remote system uses ground pulse. SPal switch has motor switch resting at ground but goes positive when switch thrown. I tried using a relay on remote to reverse it's polarity from ground but if the pulse is switched it is married to Spal switch which restate ground. I am thinking I have to take switch feed to motor and isolate that on another relay. Does that make sense?
TIA
Doug M.




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 9:15 AM
Go to relay section, 5 wire that's the equivalent alternately and far safer use a window close/vent/open system like DEI 530t.

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: dlmrun2002
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 9:29 AM
Thanks for the quick reply.The 5 wire relay page I am aware of. The Spal window kit doesn't need relays really. The window switch in the kit throws (reverses) the polarity. I was trying to integrate the remote device using negative ground pulse with the kit without having to buy another unit since I have extra relays.
dlm ny country




Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 10:20 AM
True, the Spal kit doesn't need relays to function as is, but if you want to control the windows as you described without a window module, you will need them.

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posted_image the12volt • Support the12volt.com




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 10:34 AM
Which is exactly what I was getting at. 5 wire or reverse current or relay interrupt as applied to locks is exactly the same as standard window wiring.
I won't get into it here but those SPAL switches can be turned into a 3 wire NEG switching and fire up relays. All you have to do then is to diode join (1N4004) band away from relay with your alarm outputs and there you go, wired as "add actuators".

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 10:36 AM
To finish there are quite a few ways of doing this BUT you'll need 2 x 5 pin relays for each window.
Still easier to use a pair of 529ts to close or 530t as mentioned above.

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: dlmrun2002
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 12:43 PM
Could I use a diode from window switch to motor and a diode on remote feed (ground pulse) going to motor to isolate what seems as low voltage feeding back to the switch?

dlm ny country




Posted By: dlmrun2002
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 2:08 PM
After rolling over this whole setup I am thinking it is best to go with an upgrade on my remote system that will give me all the choices I have mentioned plus provide me with remotest control. My old remote system only gives me 4 outputs (all negative ground) and I am looking for a new controller with remotes that will give me more outputs with varying polarity on the outputs. This would be to control windows(2), door locks(2) and maybe one or two other devices. I am open to suggestions {cheap Chinese systems :) } and thanks forf all the input .
Doug M ny country




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 2:28 PM
Applying a diode simply won't work. the reason being that motor wires rest on ground then one side goes to 12V+ while the other side stays on ground, then it changes over. You will need 20 amp diodes and since the motor wires alternate POS and NEG you will either blow the diodes and or the motors will cease to function.
That WON'T control the windows I suggest you read the relay section and try to understand "permanent magnet motors" and how they work before attempting this. The four NEG outputs you have now are more than adequate to control locks and winds if you add relays and or closers.

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: dlmrun2002
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 2:50 PM
I knew the diode question was a "Hail Mary". Thanks for the input. I'm leaning towards a control unit at this point to do all the switching..
dlm ny country




Posted By: dlmrun2002
Date Posted: March 09, 2014 at 11:27 AM
Well. I finally got it all figured out with relays. Thanks to the guys and info here. I did a bunch of reading and was able to map out the wiring. Now all I have to do is modify that Spal switch to 3 way as mentioned earlier. I just need to break the ground normals on the Spal switch at rest and use the motor side of the switch as negative pulse instead of positive.
Thanks for the inspiration.
dlm ny country




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 09, 2014 at 11:41 AM
Can you post either a photo or a layout diagram of the back of the switch and I'll show you how.

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: dlmrun2002
Date Posted: March 09, 2014 at 12:06 PM
Here is the original paper for harness. HTH
posted_image

dlm ny coutry




Posted By: dlmrun2002
Date Posted: March 09, 2014 at 12:32 PM
Well I had another light go on..in my head of course. To use the Spal switch all I need is to remove the ground from the harness (it runs parallel with other window switch) and feed ground to middle switch which normally gets ground. This way the switch is not resting at ground..I knew I should not have inhaled in High School.. has has

dlm ny country




Posted By: dlmrun2002
Date Posted: March 09, 2014 at 1:10 PM
That all works fine…minus I loose my switch illumination light. If I could break the ground normal in the switch that goes to the top right connector in the diagram I could get my illumination back..
dlm ny country




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 11, 2014 at 1:55 PM
I was going to tell you to remove the 12v+ and grounds, insert a ground in the centre tap but you'll lose your illumination.
Back to square one.

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: dlmrun2002
Date Posted: March 11, 2014 at 4:06 PM
Hi Harry. Well after getting some knowledge on relays (thanks) I found a good cheap device that will give me what I need on the windows,eliminate the relays and let me use the Spal harness as configured from factory. Autoloc WC1000 I got for $20.00 and it gives me remote use and one touch down. NO relays need. YEaH !!
Doug M ny country





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