Latching Relay Will Not Unlatch, And Low

Hi folks... first post! I have a camper van that I am putting light switches at the side and rear entrance and center console so I can just toggle on and off from any position.

I ordered Bosch relays and assembled the latched on/off with a momentary press (https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram24.html) and it turns the lights on as it should, but it will not turn the lights off. I can hear relays click when I press and unpress the switch. I have tried to figure out why it's not working, but I can't. The last relay never seems to cut the 12V from going to the middle relay when the lights are on. I have checked each relay and the wiring and I think it's all wired correctly, but it's hard to tell.

Also, 5 of these Bosches draw about half an amp!!!!!! That is just NOT going to work in my solar set up. That's about 10 times what I expected for something controlling LED lighting. Can someone suggest some low power draw relays (Around 20mA or so? Is that possible??) or maybe all this can be solved with a solid state latch?? I haven't found a decent one online yet. The lighting is all LED, so should draw relatively little power. These relays are drawing WAY more power than the LEDs are.

Thanks for any help!!!

This is for a 1991 Ford E150. There's no solar installed yet, I am working towards that!

Without seeing what you've wired and being able to test it myself, it would be very difficult to tell you why it's not working. With regards to low current draw, you're better off using a latching relay than any of the setups I've drawn with multiple SPDT relays to create a latch. Unfortunately I no longer have a source for latching relays, but you may be able to find some on eBay if you can't find any when searching for them on Google.

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the12volt • Support the12volt.com

Thank you for the reply! I was going to post a pic, but couldn't see how the rats nest of wires would help... It's wired using the most temporary means possible as proof of concept before I install it and try to clean it up. And I am brand new, so I don't think I'll be able to post pics.

You can post images, but for your application, I'd try to locate and use a latching relay instead of multiple SPDT relays to create a latch, then if you need higher current capacity than that of the latching relay's closed contacts, add an SPDT or SPST relay.

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the12volt • Support the12volt.com

Ok, I think I'll do that, just due to the current draw. Thanks again for your reply!

Yep, I would do the same. The latching relay will only draw current during the press of the momentary switch to change the contacts from opened to closed or closed to opened.

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the12volt • Support the12volt.com

The relay arrays in the diagrams are fun to play with. I've used several of them, and also built some variations to suite my individual needs. I've done some cool stuff, particularly with "Ghost Switches".

Study the diagram until you understand how it functions as drawn. Until you understand it, you'll be frustrated trying to figure out why it doesn't.

I'm GUESSING that the crux of your problem is that you've mixed up the 87 and 87a's on one or more relays. But as ADMIN pointed out, there's no way to figure it out over a monitor and keyboard.

Also, there are only 3 (of the 5) relays energized with the array = ON. If you use the array that has diodes, there are only 2 relays energized. And if you were to use two buttons, one for ON, and one for OFF (or a SPDT mom-off-mom toggle switch), you can build the array with only 2 relays total, only one of which is energized in ON. (Hint: Use your 5-relay diagram, but only the far left, and far right relays. #86 to ground on the left relay latches it ON, and #86 to ground on the right relay interrupts the B+ to the relay on the left to turn it OFF.) See what I mean about using the diagrams for "food for thought" and adapt them as needed?

Have fun.