Three Pulses converted to one pulse

I am having trouble wiring this up?

I want to add a remote start to my factory keyless entry, but I want to be able to activate the remote start by pressing Lock -> Unlock -> Lock on the transmitter. 

What I need is to get one single negative output after pressing the buttons in the correct sequence to acitvate the remote start.

Or if anyone has a better idea on how to do this, I am open to suggestions. I don't like the idea of having to just press the Lock button three times to start the car, because sometimes when I am trying to lock the doors I will keep pressing Lock til the horn honks that way I know the doors are locked.

I am using a CrimeStopper RS-901 add on remote start. To start it will take either a single negative pulse or three negative pulses.

Do you have a Diagram of the output Relays?

Or does it have a single wire?

Does this have Outputs that Reverse Polarity on a solenoid.

Help me out I am in the Dark here.

Shed some Light on the way it is wired so I can Design you a circuit.

This could get a bit complicated.

Lock -> Unlock -> Lock

Here is what I mean by complicated.

Get an Audiovox (Prestige) stand alone Remote car starter. it utilizes the door lock motors to activate.

Unlike most of the that need to be pulsed 3 times. The udiovox uses the motor lock and unlock motor

+++++=======lock-unlock-lock

Maybe I didn't explain myself good enough.

What I want to do is pres Lock -> Unlock -> Lock -> on the transmitter, by using the power lock wires as triggers for the relays how can I wire up a relay(s) to either send a single pulse from this sequence or send three seperate pulses from this sequence to the negative remote start trigger. If I just wire up the lock and unlock wire to the (-) negative trigger of the remote start it would start on any three button press sequence.

I hope this explains a little more what I want.

With the Circuit I gave you you can not do that.

So lets get a wiring diagram of what you have and design what you want together.

I dpn't have a wiring diagram yet, that is why I amasking for help here.

If the  lock and unlock wires are the triggers how would I wire up the relays?

Will the TR-7 be able to give me a pulse using the lock and unlock pulses from the keyless entry.

I looked at the documentation on pac-audio website and it looks like it only takes one trigger multiple times with a time limit to create on pulse out.

Could you use 3 seperate buttons instead of 2?

Then we could use a Decimal decoder.

I would only have two triggers from the door locks (lock and unlock). I am using the factory keyless entry to trigger the relays.

Here is what I came up with.

It has not been tested!

Here is the same circuit using Cube Relays.

I will pick up some relays this weekend and give it a try.

John, Thanks for your help on this one.

One more question. Without using a timer realy to control the 12 volt constant pressing Lock then half hour later Unlock and Lock it will trigger the remote start. The latched output is not timed so any amount of time between the triggers could trigger the remote start correct?

So is it a good idea to use a timed relay triggererd by the Lock output to supply power to the relays for a set amount of time. This would ensure that the Lock->Unlock->Lock sequence would only work with a specified amount of time.

John,

Need your help again. I wired up my relays, but when I pulse the Lock wire I get a buzz from relay #2. I wired them up using 2 DPDT relays and one SPDT. If I trigger the Unlock wire I will get relays 1,2,3 and 4 to latch, and they will unlatch when I trigger the Lock wire but I get the buzzing again.

The is the first time I have worked with DPDT relays so just to make sure that I am wiring them up correctly this is what I have done. First of all I am using RadioShack model 275-218 if this helps any. Second It seems that on this relay the order of contacts from top to bottom are 87a - 87 - 30 - 86 ( assuming we are talking about relay #1 in your diagram). So I made the changes to my diagram so that the wires are in the correct place.

Your help is greatly appreciated.

My door lock triggers (Lock and Unlock) are positive triggers as opposed to previosly stating they were negative.

How would I make this change?

Any idea why the first relay(lock) won't latch when being triggered. The unlock will triggered and when I trigger the lock again it will unlatch the unlock.

Here is a Step by Step TEST that will test each section by it's self.

This will confirm that each Section is working Properly.

He requires only one pulse. He wanted it to be a combination Lock too He wanted to push Lock then Unlock then lock again to get a single pulse out of Relay #3. The first Pulse will Latch Relay 1 and switch the Positive to Relay 2 and the second Pulse will Latch Relay 2 sending the positive to relay 3 the third pulse will unlatch Relays one and 2 and send the one pulse out to the output.

I agree there should be a small delay but I haven't figured out how to do it the easy way yet.

We culd somehow add this into the Mix.

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#ctm

Constant to Momentary Output
The capacitor allows the coil of the relay to be energized until the capacitor stores a charge, thus de-energizing the coil. The resistor bleeds off the charge of the capacitor when positive voltage is removed from the other side of the coil. You can increase the output time by simply changing the value of the capacitor. This one will give you about a 1/2 second output.
  

This should work:

PS: dont mind the extra random relay I just forgot to delet it

BMP is not Allowed. You have to change the Format to JPEG or GIF Then post it.

If it is bigger than 30kb it won't go.

If you have trouble Converting it just Email it to me and I will Convert it and send it back to you.

hotwaterwizard@aol.com

the last one was JPEG we'll try GIF this time . Also just set the pulse relay timer for negative trigger and have it latch for a little longer than you think it will take you to hit the lock, unlock, then lock again. Again ignore the random relay

the last one was JPEG we'll try GIF this time . Also just set the pulse relay timer for negative trigger and have it latch for a little longer than you think it will take you to hit the lock, unlock, then lock again. Again ignore the random relay

Thanks for posting that for me hotwaterwizard. I was having one heck of a time getting that picture to load. As for the positive L/U I was under the assumpition that they were negative trigger but that is easily fixed. Just were it says 12V change that to ground, where it says ground change that to 12V, cut the loop on the pulse relay timer so it accepts a positive trigger and reverse the diodes. This will yield a positive output after a positive lock, unlock , then lock again. If a negative unlock is still needed all you have to do is add another relay onto the output to change the polarity. Just use the positive output to trigger the relay and have pin 87 hooked to ground and pin 30 will be your negative output. I've found that DEI 451Ms work great for little projects like this if you pay careful attention to what wire is what pin on the mini relays. They are easily confused simply because you cant vizually look at where the wire is hooked up. If you do end up using these there are two purple wires that are attached, the purple wire with the black stripe is hooked to the same relay as the white and green wires. BTW what kind of car is this? I didnt catch it in all the posts but I may have missed it.

G-luck

Thanks for posting that for me hotwaterwizard. I was having one heck of a time getting that picture to load. As for the positive L/U I was under the assumpition that they were negative trigger but that is easily fixed. Just were it says 12V change that to ground, where it says ground change that to 12V, cut the loop on the pulse relay timer so it accepts a positive trigger and reverse the diodes. This will yield a positive output after a positive lock, unlock , then lock again. If a negative unlock is still needed all you have to do is add another relay onto the output to change the polarity. Just use the positive output to trigger the relay and have pin 87 hooked to ground and pin 30 will be your negative output. I've found that DEI 451Ms work great for little projects like this if you pay careful attention to what wire is what pin on the mini relays. They are easily confused simply because you cant vizually look at where the wire is hooked up. If you do end up using these there are two purple wires that are attached, the purple wire with the black stripe is hooked to the same relay as the white and green wires. BTW what kind of car is this? I didnt catch it in all the posts but I may have missed it.

G-luck

If it is a 2003 accord test the lock and unlock wires not the motor wires. I am pretty sure they will be negative pulse and my original diagram that hotwaterwizard posted for me will work with no modifications. The only concern is if the lock and unlock wires actually pulse when you use the remote. I know they do from the door switch and if you turn the key in the door key cylinder but I have never tried testing them when you use the factory key fob. Let us know how this turns out.