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Relay using up too much power?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Relays
Forum Discription: Relay Diagrams, SPDT Relays, SPST Relays, DPDT Relays, Latching Relays, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=883
Printed Date: May 21, 2024 at 4:33 AM


Topic: Relay using up too much power?

Posted By: TJC13
Subject: Relay using up too much power?
Date Posted: May 22, 2002 at 11:11 AM

I have a Bosch auto relay (SPDT) that's triggering the neons in the car. I spliced pins 85 & 86 inline to the power of the dome light to trigger it. The neons come on like they are expected when the dome light is on.
 
Problem is the dome light no longer turns on. The wiring is very thin for the dome light, probably 22 to 18 gauge. Is the relay using up too much power on the coil in the relay so it's not enough to also power the dome lights? The Bosch relay I believe is 30 amps. I know the dome lights are good too because if I short pins 85 & 86 on the relay harness, the dome lights turn on.
 
I don't want to rewire all wiring to the dome light with thicker gauge wire. Can I use an additional, low amp relay instead to trigger a new fuse and thicker wire directly from the battery for more current to my existing Bosch relay and will this take care of my problem. Thanks.



Replies:

Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: May 22, 2002 at 12:04 PM

Hi Tjc13, if you connected power to 85 and 86, the relay isn't doing anything. Post the connections you made on all pins on the relay and tells us what it is you're trying to do in the vehicle.

If you're trying to turn on the neon lights in your vehicle when you open the doors and your vehicle has a negative door trigger, connect 85 to the door trigger, connect 86 and 87 to 12V+, and connect 30 to the positive lead of the transformer for the neon lights with the negative lead from the transformer grounded. 

If you have a postive door trigger, connect 85 to the door trigger, connect 86 to ground, connect 12V+ to 87, and connect 30 to the positive lead of the transformer for the neon lights with the negative lead from the transformer grounded.

Let us know...

the12volt





Posted By: TJC13
Date Posted: May 22, 2002 at 2:44 PM

I'm trying to trigger it via the dome light instead because I want then neons to turn on by corresponding to the dome light (whether it's triggered by the doors, manually, or shut off and all via the switch on the dome light).

Below is a diagram of what I'm doing to illustrate the problem posted above. The parking light trigger is in the illustration but not really part of my problem (I don't think so anyway).
posted_image





Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: May 22, 2002 at 4:41 PM

Hi Tjc13, you didn't tell us what vehicle this is going into, but your diagram will work as it is only with a positive triggered dome lamp. Using one relay, if your vehicle has a negative triggered dome lamp,  connect #86 to 12V+ and leave #85 connected to the switched side of the dome lamp, with a diode between #85 and #86 with the cathode side on #86. Whether you have a positive or negative triggered dome lamp, connect #87 to 12V+ and  #30 to the "automatic on" terminal of the neon switch.

Let us know how you make out and what you're instaling this into.

the12volt





Posted By: TJC13
Date Posted: May 22, 2002 at 5:55 PM

Thanks the12volt. I'm trying to comprehend what you're saying but you know us newbies with limited brain cells, lol. I have a 2000 Galant GTZ and I have a really stupid question. How do I know if it's negative or positive trigger. The dome light has 3 wires. One constant +12, and 2 others that are not positive. Of the other 2 wires, one is for doors and the other is manual on. Since there is one constant +12 wire, I'm assuming the dome light is negative trigger.

Ok now to fill you in on my newbie mentality, I thought since I can find the positive and negative wires, it doesn't matter what I put inline for the coil (85 & 86) for it to detect the current flow and make the relay work. Am I wrong for thinking like this? Does it make a difference whether I put in on the positive end versus the negative end and does it make a difference whether the relay is before or after the dome light assembly.

Time for me to get a litte education here and relearn what I thought I knew. Oh, and with the new info furnished here, is the solution you've given me above the best one? Thanks for your patience and help. I really appreciate it.posted_image

BTW, how come my email notification to the thread doesn't work?





Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: May 22, 2002 at 6:38 PM

Hi Tjc13, you're correct, your vehicle has a negative triggered dome lamp. If you want it to work with the switch shown in your diagram that allows the neon to come on automatically with it in one position and come on in the other position, then the way I described it above is the way to do it, but since we now know you have a negative triggered dome lamp and that you also want it to come on any time you switch the dome lamp on manually, using one relay and two diodes, connect it like this:

posted_image

Without looking at your dome lamp switch I added diodes just to be safe, though they may not be needed.

Let us know how you make out.

the12volt





Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: May 22, 2002 at 6:42 PM
Almost forgot.....with regards to your email notification to the thread not working, I'll check into it.




Posted By: TJC13
Date Posted: May 22, 2002 at 7:41 PM
Thanks for the great diagram! I will try it tonight and let you know how it goes. I do believe the door and manual trigger is on separate circuits so diodes shouldn't be needed. I'm still not too clear on why the relay actually triggered the way I had it but the dome light just didn't light up. Anyway, I will definitely try it later.




Posted By: TJC13
Date Posted: May 23, 2002 at 10:25 PM

Well, here's the report after numberous tries last night and this afternoon. I've tried everything. Did the one you diagramed and the one above that with the diode across 86 & 85. Even reversed the diode and using no diode and even tried a smaller 5 amp relay for smaller current draw. Conclusion, as long as the relay coil is inline with the dome light, before it or after it, positive or negative trigger, the dome light will not light up the same time the coil in the relay is working. I am totally baffled.

Anyway, what I did so far is just put them on the manual switch. Automatic will work but only at the sacrifice of the dome light NOT turning on so I didn't hook it up this way. I'm going to tomorrow at least put the new power source triggered from ignition so I don't have to worry about leaving the neons on. This way it will kill the power when I don't have the car on.

If you have other suggestions or clues into why I'm having this problem, please let me in on your thoughts. In theory, relays are interesting until you put it to test; results aren't always what you'd expect. Oh well........back to the drawing board, lol.





Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: May 24, 2002 at 8:45 AM

Hi Tjc13, after reading this I understand why you're bafled... "I've tried everything. Did the one you diagramed and the one above that with the diode across 86 & 85. Even reversed the diode and using no diode and even tried a smaller 5 amp relay for smaller current draw. Conclusion, as long as the relay coil is inline with the dome light, before it or after it, positive or negative trigger, the dome light will not light up the same time the coil in the relay is working. I am totally baffled."

First of all my diagram does not show a diode across the coil at 85 and 86 and the relay is not inline (or in series) with the dome lamp. The connections (blue leads) between the relay, with the diodes inline,  tap into the two (-) triggers at the dome lamp respectively. If you want it to work with the dome lamp, have another look at my diagram and try again.

the12volt





Posted By: TJC13
Date Posted: May 24, 2002 at 9:13 AM
Quote: Originally posted by the12volt on May 24, 2002

First of all my diagram does not show a diode across the coil at 85 and 86 and the relay is not inline (or in series) with the dome lamp. The connections (blue leads) between the relay, with the diodes inline,  tap into the two (-) triggers at the dome lamp respectively. If you want it to work with the dome lamp, have another look at my diagram and try again.

the12volt


Right. Didn't say you have a diode across the coil in your illustration. I said the tip even before that (two replies up from the illustrated one) mentions use of diode. BTW, the coil of the relay IS inline with the dome light not the common and normally open/closed part of the relay. The circuits for the door trigger and manual open for the dome light are separate. I only tested the manual open to no avail. Let me know if you have other suggestions.

Oh, I just to give you more info on how I got the negative trigger and that may also clue you in on a mistake I might have done. I took the hot wire and cut it. The hot end was not used (grounded with test light to make sure). Then I took the other end and did a continuity test with the manual on wire to make sure I got the negative trigger wire. This is the wire I used as illustrated in your diagram to complete the negative trigger and this was connected to 85 as illustrated. Any clues yet on the problem?

For now, I'm going to the garage and wiring a relay that's triggered by ignition so it'll turn off the new power source for the neons. Talk to you in a bit posted_image





Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: May 24, 2002 at 9:54 AM

Hi Tjc13, no, you didn't say I have a diode across the coil in my illustration, but that you placed a diode across 85 and 86 (85 and 86 = coil of relay). Then you said ..."as long as the relay coil is inline with the dome lamp....the dome lamp will not light up".  I know you didn't say I have it in my diagram,  but the coil of the relay is not shown to be in series with the dome lamp in my diagram nor do you want it to be in series (inline) with it.

In your last reply you said you cut the hot wire. Was this the lead going to the dome lamp? or where?? If it was the lead to the dome lamp, you do not want to cut it or any other wire going to the dome lamp, unless of course you do not want your dome lamp to work. Leave your dome lamp wired as it was originally with no leads cut, then where I show the blue leads in my diagram connecting to the dome lamp triggers, simply tap these wires into each respectively without cutting them. These need to be parallel connections, not series connections. (Inline = Series)

the12volt





Posted By: TJC13
Date Posted: May 24, 2002 at 2:05 PM

Oh, doh! I think I see the light (pun), hahaha. So tap in to all wires and I should be ok. Tap 86 into the positive wire from the dome light and tap 85 into the negative wires with a diode for safety.

Will let you know soon! Thanks again! posted_image





Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: May 24, 2002 at 2:52 PM

Tjc13, do not connect 86 to the positive lead of your dome light, connect 86 to the positive side of your battery and place a fuse inline. The dome lamp circuit may not handle the additional current draw of your neon lights.

the12volt





Posted By: TJC13
Date Posted: May 25, 2002 at 9:05 PM

Yes, that is exactly what I did. I initially also thought about the additional load of the neons; hence, 86 goes to a new fused 12v from the battery. Everything seems to be good now execpt I somehow have a closed circuit so the neons are constantly on. I've have to investigate this further because I have another relay there too. As for the dome light and neons, they are both working now. Yeah! posted_image

Thanks for all you help the12volt. I will remember this lesson of parallel versus in series.





Posted By: techrat
Date Posted: June 19, 2002 at 7:50 AM

Just an afterthought on all this...

Wouldn't everything been alot simpler if the relay coil was put in parallel with the filiment of the domelight, no feedback, no diodes, no headaches. ????

i think i'm right. (or am I?)






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