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2010 toyota highlander

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Vehicle Wiring Information & File Requests
Forum Discription: Request Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Cruise Control, Remote Starter, Navigation, Mobile Video, and Other Vehicle Specific Wiring Info, Manuals, Tech Tips
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133361
Printed Date: May 28, 2024 at 3:03 PM


Topic: 2010 toyota highlander

Posted By: defel_abe
Subject: 2010 toyota highlander
Date Posted: January 20, 2013 at 12:36 AM

I was looking for the remote start and security vehicle wiring info for a 2010 Toyota Highlander standard edition. Thanks for the help!



Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: January 20, 2013 at 4:52 AM

For vehicle wiring, here are some sources :

Here is a link to Bulldog Security :  https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

Here is a link to Ready Remote :  https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp

Here is a link to AudioVox :  https://techservices.audiovox.com/AccessRequest.aspx    Sign-up & info is free.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: defel_abe
Date Posted: March 10, 2013 at 10:57 AM

So, I have done my research on the sites provided above and I found some discrepancies between the wiring databases. I have decided to stick with the Directwire wiring information, as it has always been accurate for me in the past. I am an ex installer from former circuit city and best buy and I still do it every now and then on the side etc. My question and concern is that I am re installing a viper 791XV with a PTKI XK05 module into a 2010 Toyota Highlander. My first question is; Will the XK05 be the best module for this install or should I go with a DBALL? The Highlander is NOT equipped with a smart key and is NOT a hybrid model. I'd rather just install the XK05 since its already purchased and it is what the DirectTechs sheet called for but I have always heard from other installers to just always buy a dball for newer cars etc. My second concern is that in the ignition harness the Accessory(gray), Second Starter(red), and Second Ignition (lt. blue) are all listed and test as the correct wires for the install but the problem i am concerned with is that they are like 18-22ga. wires and I am absolutely certain they are not meant to carry the current output by my viper 791XV. But with that being said I am wondering if they are just signal wires to an  internal relay system? and I can hook my heavy gauge wires into them since they won't be pulling higher amounts of current since they would be "trigger" wires? Any other heads up or precautionary measures that I haven't ran into yet would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks





Posted By: defel_abe
Date Posted: March 10, 2013 at 11:05 AM

Also, in the past I have little or no experience with integrating a remote starter/alarm system into a vehicle with a second starter. My first question with this is; I do not want this system to utilize the starter kill function through the aftermarket alarm. Can I leave the starter input wire unhooked and just tap the starter output wire from the remote start into the vehicle starter wire? I beleive the answer is yes but I wasn't sure what to do with the second starter wire in the vehicle which is a small gauge wire. about 18-22ga red wire at the ignition harness. do I need to involve relays?

Thanks again for the help





Posted By: shortcircuit161
Date Posted: March 10, 2013 at 11:59 AM
Please forgive me but if you don't know what to do with a 2nd Starter wire, please don't install remote starters in ANY vehicle. Rusty or not, you should know the basics of powering additional connections (2nd starter or otherwise). I wouldn't normally say this to most installers but a seasoned or former "big retail" installer should know these things. Then again..........

The XK05 (in my opinion) is junk as are all the other DEI bypass modules. I would highly suggest an iDatalink ADS-ALCA which will control the factory alarm, door locks, power trunk/liftgate, immobilizer, tach and more. Even though a lot of those connections are easily accessible at the driver's kick and ignition harness also, the ADS-ALCA does it all via data. Not to mention they are way more reliable than DEI bypasses will ever be.

You will need an account with ADS/idatalink to flash their modules but it's worth it. Less headaches in the long run. You may also want to look at the Fortin modules. They are also rock solid and most of them come preloaded with firmware so no flashing is needed.

Just my 2 cents.......

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Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 10, 2013 at 3:25 PM
X with Frank, 2nd starters have been around for at least 10 years so you should have known back then. We've all just dealt with an immobilised Camry where the installer failed to understand.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: defel_abe
Date Posted: March 11, 2013 at 5:44 PM

I failed to mention that I was missing two of the harnesses that usually comes with Viper 791XV and that I wasn't using typical relays. Guess that sentence never made it. I used a 551M in which I couldnt remember the relay posts to the corresponding wire colors. It's not that I don't know how to hook up extra power and relays its just that my typical way of doing it wasn't possible. But i figured it out. Anyway I decided to steer away from the XK05 and hook everything up old school with a 556UW. All is working except parking lights. I used the location and wire color according to DirectWire but its not triggering the parking lights, it tested when parking lights were activated but apparently its not the correct wire for parking light output. Also the mentioned location and color for hoodpin also isn't triggering or testing when hood is opened. Everything else its functioning as it should. The person who is getting this install wants me to avoid making them buy a 100 bypass etc. I'm very aware that one would make my life much easier at this point if I was installing one such as mentioned above. I may just have to tell them to get a bypass...

Thanks





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 11, 2013 at 6:05 PM
Parking lights, light blue NEG switch white plug.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 11, 2013 at 6:09 PM
I roughed this up for a Tacoma, so it's about as near as you will get:-
14B_tacoma_wiring.bmp

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: defel_abe
Date Posted: March 11, 2013 at 6:26 PM
yeah I tapped into the lt.blue wire in the white plug pin 18 if I remember correctly, at the parking light switch but it was just triggering the interior lights (dimming) only when the vehicle was running so I will have to check out the link you provided. thanks




Posted By: defel_abe
Date Posted: March 12, 2013 at 7:21 PM

An update and problem to my parking light issue. The vehicle has options on the lights switch for the following; headlamps, parking lights, Auto, and DRL OFF (daytime running lights). when the switch is turned to auto there is no output to the parking lamps when unlocking or locking the vehicle with the aftermarket system. When the switch is positioned in the DRL OFF position everything seems to work fine. I also observed that the factory system uses the hazards as its OEM system unlock and lock flashes. I am most likely going to ditch the idea of hooking into the parking lights at the switch and hook into the hazards at the switch under the radio. That is unless anyone has any suggestions. Another issue I have observed is that when the vehicle has been remote started and then turned off WITHOUT opening any doors, the headlamps will stay on well past the qpprox 30 second delay unless the parking light switch is in the DRL OFF position or until a door is open then closed, which the headlights will then turn off after about 30 seconds. I even unhooked the parking light wire to see if this was causing some issues but didn't change the outcome. A third problem I have seen is that the vehicle doesn't seem to want to start the first time every time like it did before the viper system was installed. I mentioned earlier that I was missing two of the harnesses so I am quite limited on the wiring options available such as the second starter output wire and factory alarm arm/disarm wires from the viper brain. I installed a 556UW with the transponer ring around the key cylinder. The vehicle fires up the first time and every time when remote started but when starting the vehicle with just the key it just cranks as if it isn't reading the key in the cylinder at times. I have never had problems with 556UW's causing interference in vehicles in the past but i suppose it could be an issue. Any suggestions? The brain is missing H2 (maroon 6 pin plug containing factory alarm arm/disarm wires, wait to start, channel 4 and 5 outputs and 2nd unlock output. The relay satellite packs secondary harness (-) outputs from Relay Satellite ribbon harness are also missing, this is where i would have typically hooked my relay install into but instead I had to do it a different way as mentioned in an earlier post. I will say that a bypass such as a DBALL or  iDatalink ADS-ALCA was not used due to customer not wanting to purchase one and the two missing harnesses.






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