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1998 camry remote starter need rap wire

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Vehicle Wiring Information & File Requests
Forum Discription: Request Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Cruise Control, Remote Starter, Navigation, Mobile Video, and Other Vehicle Specific Wiring Info, Manuals, Tech Tips
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137466
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 3:02 PM


Topic: 1998 camry remote starter need rap wire

Posted By: ykhehra1
Subject: 1998 camry remote starter need rap wire
Date Posted: October 17, 2014 at 9:42 PM

1998 Camry without engine immobilizer.

I installed Viper 4103xv remote starter with keyless entry.

Its working fine but lights (if set on auto) stays on till battery dead if shut down engine with remote.

Viper not giving more help then 'need to utilize the RAP shutdown feature on this system'.

What ever I found online about RAP is something in connection with bypass module or alarm.

But my car don't need bypass & alarm. How can I fix it? Thanks



Replies:

Posted By: djrico724
Date Posted: October 17, 2014 at 9:56 PM
Hi sounds like a good one ok try shutting of RS with remote with lights on auto then open and close the drivers door to see if lights shut off I think there on timer so make sure you wait at least one min




Posted By: ykhehra1
Date Posted: October 17, 2014 at 11:29 PM
Yes lights get off when I put keys in door, but I want it automatic.




Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: October 18, 2014 at 11:40 AM
You need to use the GREEN / WHITE "rearm" wire off the 4103 to pulse the drivers door pin. This will simulate you opening and closing the drivers door thus turning off the lights a few minutes later if not immediately. The drivers door pin wire is RED / green and can be found in the drivers side running board harness or in a white plug to the left of the steering wheel column, but to the right of the fusebox. You might have gotten your parking lights as well as your brake in the very same white plug as the drivers door pin is in. The drivers door pin will test as a ground when the door is open.




Posted By: ykhehra1
Date Posted: October 18, 2014 at 3:35 PM
Ok I used 'H1/2 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY REARM' wire to connect RED / green-strip wire on on white connector at bottom of fuse plug.

It fix the above 'lights stays on' problem, but now door lock/unlock don't work when engine is off and doors are close.




Posted By: ykhehra1
Date Posted: October 18, 2014 at 3:57 PM
Here is the picture of connection I mentioned above

posted_image




Posted By: djrico724
Date Posted: October 18, 2014 at 6:23 PM
Are you getting door lock wires from the orange plug under fuse box?




Posted By: ykhehra1
Date Posted: October 19, 2014 at 10:16 AM
No, I hooked lock wires in kick panel to dark green and light green.

posted_image

Do you think plugging them in orange connecter like in below picture will fix it?

posted_image




Posted By: ykhehra1
Date Posted: October 19, 2014 at 10:19 AM
here is right orientation of picture.

posted_image




Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: October 19, 2014 at 12:09 PM
In the picture with the parking lights in it, the drivers door pin is to the right of the parking light wire. RED / Green. The car needs to "see" the drivers door open and close after the car shuts down in order to start the timer to turn off the headlights. You can simulate this by using the rearm wire from the remote starter connected to the drivers door pin wire.
The headlights staying on until the battery dies has nothing to do with where you get your power door lock wires... You can get the door lock wires from many places in the car, they are all common and head back to the fusebox. Just like the brake and parking light wires, I can think of at least 4 places where to get those wires on the car, but they all end up at the fusebox as well.
I'm glad you got the parking lights at that connector and that you posted a picture of it so I can point out where you could easily find the drivers door pin wire. The brake wire (GREEN / WHITE)could also be caught at the wire above the drivers door pin RED / green wire in that same plug.




Posted By: djrico724
Date Posted: October 19, 2014 at 12:19 PM
No what is going on is that Toyotas door locks will not operate when door is open. So what you need to do is add a Relay to the green and white wire from remote starter what that will do is cause a delay from when you unlock the doors.Take a standard Bosh Relay SPDT hook up leg 86 to 12V constant fused leg 87 to ground leg 85 to green white from remote starter and leg 30 to RED / green that will cause a delay and will alow door locks to work




Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: October 19, 2014 at 1:06 PM
opps, I didn't read all the responses... didn't realize he fixed the problem and was onto a new problem.
I usually grab the passenger door lock cylinder wires on that car in the orange plug. I use the 4103 on that car and never have problems with the door locks. whether the door is open of not, the doors will still lock using those wires. The car computer knows the difference between using the key to lock the doors and using the interior panel door lock switch. The whole purpose of not being able to lock the doors when you have the door open is so that you don't lock your keys in the car. If you are locking the door from the key cylinder outside your car, the car computer knows that you have your keys in your hand. You are tapped into the door panel lock switch wires in that picture.

You'll have to test for the correct wires because if I remember there are a few of the same color wires down in that plug and in one way or another many of those wires in the orange plug have to do something with the locking system. You need to put your meter's red probe on a known constant 12volts and probe the suspected wire with the black probe of the meter in the orange plug while an as your turn the key in the passenger door key cylinder. The correct wires will show ground when you turn the key in the key cylinder. If you use the passenger door cylinder wires in that orange plug you will be able to unlock all the doors with one press of the unlock button on the remote starter remote.
Another option is to use the drivers key cylinder wires located in the very same plug you are already in in the kick panel. The colors are blue/white(lock) and RED / green(unlock). When using these wires, when you press unlock on the remote starter remote it will only unlock the drivers door and if you time it correctly(within 3 seconds) a press of the unlock a second time on the remote, will unlock the rest of the doors. You might like that feature and want it. if you don't care about that feature and want all the doors to unlock with one press then your best bet would be to use the wires in the orange plug or set the remote starter to double pulse unlock and use the RED / green wire in the kick panel anyway. If you set the remote starter to double unlock and use the RED / green in the kick panel, with one press the drivers door will unlock and one second later the other doors will unlock automatically.

Hopefully I explained that in a way you can understand.




Posted By: ykhehra1
Date Posted: October 19, 2014 at 2:22 PM
The problem is that door lock/unlock from remote don't work when engine is off with closed doors. Fine when doors are open.
Do I still need relay on door RED / GREEN?

Also I am thinking to hook rear defogger, don't know which wire and if I need relay then how.

Here are my connections so far:

Primary harness (H1) wiring diagram
H1/2 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY REARM - to RED / GREEN strip on white connector (fuse panel)
H1/6 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN OUTPUT        - to GREEN/ BLACK strip under steering
H1/8 BLACK GROUND        - to GROUND at kick panel
H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT      - to GREEN on white connector

➢ Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram      - All connected fine and tested


➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT - to DARK GREEN on kick panel
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT   - to LIGHT GREEN on kick panel


➢ Remote start harness (H2) wiring diagram
H2/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT - to GROUND via ON/OFF switch
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE - to igniter
H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE        - to GREEN / WHITE strip on white connector

H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - NEED HELP.




Posted By: djrico724
Date Posted: October 19, 2014 at 2:51 PM
If you disconnect the green white wire do your door locks operate property? And yes you do need relay for defrost. If your door locks work properly with green white disconnected then yes I would relay it.




Posted By: djrico724
Date Posted: October 19, 2014 at 2:53 PM
I personally alway use the door locks from orange connector and have never had problems




Posted By: ykhehra1
Date Posted: October 19, 2014 at 3:06 PM
I used'H1/2 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY REARM - to RED / GREEN strip on white connector' after flobee4 suggestion to fix my original problem of 'Lights stay on after remote engine shut down'.

I will try orange connector and relay in GREEN / WHITE to RED / green connection.




Posted By: ykhehra1
Date Posted: October 19, 2014 at 4:42 PM
Thanks flobee4 and djrico714. using RED / green wire and then yellow connector solve the problem (even without relay).

But I am thinking that old setup is better for security. Because it when doors are close with engine shutdown, it lets me lock the doors with remote once and then disable keyless entry (I can still start and stop the engine). Then only key open the door or with remote if I remote start engine first. Only trouble when you what to unlock for someone with remote without starting engine.





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