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Wiring Avital 5303l in 2004 Mazda Tribute

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Vehicle Wiring Information & File Requests
Forum Discription: Request Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Cruise Control, Remote Starter, Navigation, Mobile Video, and Other Vehicle Specific Wiring Info, Manuals, Tech Tips
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=139774
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 3:46 AM


Topic: Wiring Avital 5303l in 2004 Mazda Tribute

Posted By: aredgoneblue
Subject: Wiring Avital 5303l in 2004 Mazda Tribute
Date Posted: November 24, 2015 at 3:10 PM

Hey guys,

I am having a hard time with installing a Avital 5303L in a Mazda tribute 2004. Primarily with the Relay Satellite and the unlock lock relays. Also I have an Expresskit PK All Bypass that the wiring is confusing the crap outta me. Any help would be hugely Appreciated!

Thanks!!



Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 26, 2015 at 5:14 AM

I'm not a big Avital user, but if the 5303 install guide I'm looking at is correct, the unit does not have built in lock relays and
it's a "push/pull" type output.  That means external relays for the locks or a DEI 451M door lock module.  The 451M kit
includes the required 1,200 ohm resistor.  If you are using external relays, here is a link to the Bulldog diagram for the locks :
https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/14301_Tribute_MAZDA%20MPV%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf
If you are using the 451M, follow the Type H diagram and insert the 1.2k resistor in the lock output wire.  Link to the 451M guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726

Not positive because there are other slight differences but if your Tribute has the Factory alarm system, you could try it
the way shown in this 2005 - 2007 Mariner Pictorial :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135376
You should place 1N4001 diodes in the 5303L's lock and unlock output wires due to their "push / Pull" type output, band
toward the 5303L.

Here is the Ignition wire harness ( looks the same as the Pictorial )  :
 Heavy gauge relay satellite wiring diagram
H/1  PURPLE  STARTER OUTPUT (STARTER SIDE)     *   TAN/LIGHT BLUE (+)  @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
H/2  GREEN  STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)          *          TAN/LIGHT BLUE (+)  @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
H/3  RED  (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT          Connect to BATTERY
H/4  ORANGE  OUTPUT TO ACC CIRCUIT          BLACK/ LIGHT GREEN (+)  @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
H/5  PINK  OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT    LIGHT GREEN/ PURPLE (+)  @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS 
H/6  RED  (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT   Connect to BATTERY
H/7  PINK/WHITE  OUTPUT TO 2nd IGNITION CIRCUIT not used
H/8  RED / WHITE  (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT Connect to BATTERY
* cut the Tan/Light Blue wire
These are thin wires but you can still use the 5303L's thick wires for the connections.

For the transponder bypass, the Pictorial shows the transponder plug location and the RX / TX wires.   For the PKALL
here is the wiring :
PURPLE / White to Tribute RX wire Transponder Plug, Pin 4, RED / Black
Yellow/Black to Tribute TX wire Transponder Plug, Pin 3, BROWN / Orange
Blue/White to 5303L BLUE (-) 200 mA STATUS OUTPUT
Pink to 5303L thick Pink IGN1 output wire ( which goes to Tribute Light GREEN/ Purple wire )
Think you can get +12V and Ground using the 4 Pin D2D harness to the corresponding port on the 5303L.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: aredgoneblue
Date Posted: November 28, 2015 at 12:30 PM
So I completed the wiring and everything using the above information and some other wiring diagrams and info for verification, but I am not having any luck getting this thing to work and I am stumped as to where the origin of the problem lies. I think the Xpresskit Pkall is not programming correctly because the light on the front stays lit solid and didn't flash or blink when completing the instructed programming process. When I do the last step, (remote start the vehicle, my avital 2 way remote flashes an (i) inhibit symbol. I am so frustrated after spending this much time I have still been ineffective. I tried reversing the TX and RX wires on the PKALL, as recommended to those who reported having programming issues, but to no avail. I am not even sure if the Pkall is the problem here but it seems as though it could be. i am not sure what the inhibit symbol on my 2-way is indicating, i know it is a indication that something is preventing the remote start from starting the car. I really appreciate the help KREG, I am still in need of some more though :(




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 28, 2015 at 7:18 PM

Not sure, never used a 5303 unit. You might try the Shutdown Diagnostics.  Info from install guide.

Shutdown diagnostics
To perform shutdown diagnostics:
1. With the ignition OFF, press and hold the Valet/Program switch.
2. Turn the ignition ON and then back OFF while holding the Valet/Program switch.
3. Release the Valet/Program switch.
4. Press and release the Valet/Program switch. The LED flashes on the control center to report the last shutdown for
     one minute or until the ignition is turned on, as shown in the following table:

LED Flashes Shutdown Mode
1 Timed out
2 Over-rev shutdown
3 Low or no RPM
4 Transmitter shutdown (or optional push button)
5 (+) Brake shutdown
6 (-) Shutdown (H3/4 GRAY) or (+) Shutdwon (H3/3 BROWN)
7 (-) Neutral safety shutdown (H3/1 BLACK/ WHITE)
8 Wait-to-start timed out



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 28, 2015 at 7:27 PM

As for the PKALL not programming, they can be tricky with Ford's ( Mazda ).  Timing is important and you must use two
unique keys ( not one Factory key and a clone copy ).

Another test would be to unplug the PKALL and place a working key in the ignition cylinder ( not turned ) and try a remote
start.  You can try the with the remote or by touching the thin WHITE/ Blue (-) Activation wire to chassis ground a pulse or two.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 28, 2015 at 7:29 PM
Do you have the BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety wire to Chassis ground?

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: aredgoneblue
Date Posted: December 01, 2015 at 8:07 AM
Kreg,

You're the man! I really appreciate you going out of your way to help me out with this. On Sunday after I posted my last issue I did a little bit of research and checked my wiring, for what seemed like the hundredth time, and I discovered the problem! As you stated above, it was the neutral safety switch that was not grounded. For some reason I read that if you don'y have a manual transmission, then it is not necessary to connect this wire. But obviously I was mistaken because after I connected the wire to the chassis ground she started right up. What a relief! I'm very happy that all my painstaking work was not for nothing.

Again, I can't thank you enough for helping me out man. I wasn't expecting to get much direction from posting online about my issues, but I'm glad I did.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 02, 2015 at 6:12 AM
Thanks!  Happy to hear all is working and just in time for the cold winter season.  posted_image

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Soldering is fun!





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