2004 Toyota Tundra Regular Cab V6 Remote Starter Wiring

I am trying to get the wiring diagram to hook up a Compustar CM7200 to my 04 Tundra. I have no power locks or windows. All I need is a hood switch and some parking light indicators. I'm trying to get away with as few wires as possible and have a quality starter.   Also, I have both High Current and Low Current harnesses. I'm assuming it's one or the other? Any advice would be very welcome. I've done 2 others, but they all had immobilizers and T-harnesses, which took all of 15 minutes on my $runner and the Jeep Grand Cherokee maybe 60 min. This seems much more involved and Compustar does not give much help outside of the wiring harness diagram.

Sid

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Figuring it out, one project at a time

04 tundra is a basic car.. but you will need as a minimum ....

12V, Ground, Ign 1&2, Accessory, starter, brake, Tach and negative park lights.

12 VOLT CONSTANT     WHITE/RED (+)     @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, WHITE 6-PIN PLUG, PIN 5     
STARTER     WHITE/BLACK (+)     @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, WHITE 6-PIN PLUG, PIN 4     
STARTER 2     N/A          
IGNITION 1     BLACK/RED (+)     @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, WHITE 6-PIN PLUG, PIN 6     
IGNITION 2     BLACK/YELLOW (+)     @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, WHITE 6-PIN PLUG, PIN 2     
IGNITION 3     N/A          
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1     PINK (+)     @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, WHITE 6-PIN PLUG, PIN 3     
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2     N/A          
KEYSENSE     N          
PARKING LIGHTS ( - )     GREEN (-)     @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, WHITE, 17-Pin Plug, Pin 14     
PARKING LIGHTS ( + )     GREEN (+)     in DRIVERS KICK, WHITE 14-PIN PLUG, PIN B     
POWER LOCK     See NOTE #3          
POWER UNLOCK     See NOTE #3          
LOCK MOTOR WIRE     N/A          
DOOR TRIGGER     N/A          
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION     BLUE/BLACK (-)     @ BODY ECU, GRAY 18-PIN PLUG, PIN 8, See NOTE #2     
TRUNK RELEASE     N/A          
SLIDING POWER DOOR     N/A          
HORN     BLACK/YELLOW (-)     @ HORN SWITCH, BLACK 12-PIN PLUG, PIN 6     
TACH     WHITE/BLUE (AC)     @ ECM, Behind the GLOVE BOX, FAR RIGHT PLUG, pin 5     
WAIT TO START LIGHT     N/A          
BRAKE     GREEN/WHITE (+)     in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, WHITE, 14-Pin Plug, Pin L     
FACTORY ALARM DISARM     DISARMS WITH UNLOCK          
ANTI-THEFT     MAY BE EQUIPPED WITH TOYOTA'S TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, See NOTE #1

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehiclewiring/4/yeard/Toyota.html

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~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!

Thanks. I am assuming most of these are the high current wire from the harness with the larger gauge wires?

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Figuring it out, one project at a time

Found my answer. High Current at the ignition harness, so... yes, use high current wiring. But...

I am not seeing the park light(-) anywhere in the CM7200 pinout diagram. I see "(+)12V Selectable by jumper (default parking light)"    

Any help?

Sid



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Figuring it out, one project at a time

https://www.staub.ca/pdf/sku/cm7200-ug.pdf

CN5/17 (-250 ma) green/white- Light out

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

these wire colors do not match my regular cab V6, btw. My starter is Green/Black for example.

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Figuring it out, one project at a time

12volts      WHITE/ red (30A)      +   ignition harness    
Starter       grn/blk (V6)      +   ignition harness    
Ignition       BLACK/ red        +   ignition harness    
Second Ignition       BLACK / YELLOW        +   ignition harness    
Accessory       blue/red        +   ignition harness    
Parking Lights+       green        +   driver kick harness to rear    
Tach      black     AC rt side of motor, see below


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Figuring it out, one project at a time

Everything is wired except the tach wire and the parking lights. The gauge for the parking light from the high current harness is much larger than what I think is the parking light wire (green.) It's plugged in underneath. I am not sure what that looks like. I see no parking light wire on the other harnesses or noted in the wiring diagram for the CM7200. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sid

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Figuring it out, one project at a time

Thanks! I'll give that a shot. So the high current parking light wire (+)12V... omit? Cut it and tape it up? use the green/white from CN5 only? I'm learning but new to this stuff.

Sid

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Figuring it out, one project at a time

found parking wire and got that. best way to run the tach wire through the firewall?

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Figuring it out, one project at a time

Find the existing grommet that has the Hood Release cable. Use a coat hanger
to push a new hole through the grommet in a safe area. Apply some WD-40 on the
hanger near the grommet and use electric tape to attach the Tach wire to the end
of the coat hanger.   Gently pull the hanger / wire through the new hole.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks. Any downside to a 1-Way remote? Would anything change with the settings or wiring if I wanted 2way remotes?

Thanks for all the help. Wired and ready for remote programming. Fingers crossed.

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Figuring it out, one project at a time

No downside with 1-way remotes. They are less expensive and the batteries last longer
that 2-way remotes.

The Compustar CM7200-s R/S controller is very remote upgrade friendly. There are two
antenna ports on the brain, a pin 4 and a 6 pin. ( Never try to use both at once.)
Just about any remote kit will work. Check the remote kit box to be sure it will
support the CM7200-s. These kits come with an antenna, the antenna harness and
two remotes. Depending on the kit, one remote might be 2-way and the other will
be 1-way. Range should be the same on both remotes. No changes to your wiring,
just unplug the old antenna / harness and plug in the new one. Programming is
very easy with your vehicle. Remote programming can be challenging on a PTS vehicle
because you have to cycle the Ignition wire ON to OFF 5 times with a 10 second
period. Instructions below :

Remote Programming:
You must code remotes to this system before anything will function. Begin by cycling the ignition ON and
OFF five times within 10 seconds and press and release button 1 (half second) on the first remote, and then
press and release button 1 (half second) on the second remote.



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Soldering is fun!

remotes came. I programmed them. I hear the brain clicking and responding when i use the remotes, but I don't get a start. I hooked up minimal wires. I wired everything in the high current harness except the parking lights. I pulled the parking lights from the CM5 harness, as well as the tach wire. Am I missing something? Is the brake pedal wire necessary?   Anything else that would hold me back?

Again, the remotes cause the brain to respond, so i believe they are programmed. Is there anything to do to initialize the brain?

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Figuring it out, one project at a time

I notice the brain outputs 12 volts to the GREEN/WHITE high current wire in the harness when I lock (1x), unlock (2x), and start (3x after start with the remote. I'm guessing that is the green white wire I needed?

Also, that would not keep the engine from starting, correct?

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Figuring it out, one project at a time

The thick Green/White is a (+) Parking Light output. The blinks are normal responses to the remotes commands. It does not need to be attached.

Can't remember what 3 blinks to a R/S command is. You could look it up. Did you learn the Tach signal?

The Brake wire must be connected to the vehicle.

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Soldering is fun!

brake wire... got it. Tach learning - no. I'll connect the brake wire and then do the tach learning. Thanks.

Sid

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Figuring it out, one project at a time

OK. Starter works. It was the tach learning. now trying to figure out the parking lights... I still don't get parking lights when the starter starts. I used the GREEN/WHITE out from the CH5 not from the CH1 harness. Any help with the parking lights?

Sid

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Figuring it out, one project at a time

What wire are you connected to in the vehicle? The green/white in the CH5 harness is negative output.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Thin Green/White (-) Parking Light wire from CM7200-s CN5 plug to :
PARKING LIGHTS ( - )     GREEN (-)     @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, WHITE, 17-Pin Plug, Pin 14

You can verify this vehicle wire with a Digital Multi Meter set to 20V DC, Red lead to
+12V constant and Black lead to truck Parking Light wire shown above. The DMM will go
to +12V when the parking lights are turned ON.


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Soldering is fun!