2007 Toyota Camry CE Alarm

I'm trying to install an alarm with keyless entry on my 07 Camry CE. When I wire my unlock doors using four wires and diode isolation, do I need to insulate the diodes covering the all? what is the difference between "Door Tigger" and "Power Unlock" ? Can I put the "Power Unlock" in parallel with the four wires and diode isolation or is this a wrong way to do?

Thank you

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - TOYOTA / CAMRY / 2007 / Security


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12volts black (30A), orange (7.5A)   +   ignition harness
Starter blue   +   ignition harness
Ignition yellow   +   ignition harness
Power Lock brown   -   driver kick, 25 pin plug, pin 16
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Power Unlock gray (double pulse)   -   driver kick, 25 pin plug, pin 8
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.

Can also use the passenger door key cylinder unlock wire, which only requires a single pulse. It is gray (-) at the fuse box, top L, 16 pin plug, pin 7.
Lock Motor white to red   5wi driver kick, 25 pin plug, pin 9
Unlock Motor gray to white   5wi driver kick, 25 pin plug, pin 25
Disarm Defeat lt. green   5wi fuse box, top R, 12 pin plug, pin 2
Parking Lights+ do not use, relay rests at gnd       
Parking Lights- black   -   switch or BECU, 26 pin plug, pin 23
Notes: The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash.
Hazards white   -   switch or BECU, 16 pin plug, pin 4
Notes: The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash.
Turn Signal(L) yellow   +   fuse box, middle, 12 pin plg, pin 12
Turn Signal(R) green   +   fuse box, L side, 12 pin plug, pin 9
Door Trigger see notes   -   see notes
Notes: The LF door is blue at the BECU, 26 pin plug, pin 24. The RF door is yellow at the BECU, 28 pin plug, pin 21. The LR door is lt. green at the fuse box, R side, 13 pin plug, pin 7. The RR door is gray at the BECU, 28 pin plug, pin 5 or 7. Use all four wires and diode isolate each.

The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash.
Dome Supervision brown   -   fuse box, mid R, 12 pin plug, pin 5
Trunk/Hatch Pin white   -   dr kick or BECU, 28 pin plug, pin 25
Notes: The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash.
Hood Pin red   -   hood pin switch under hood
Notes: Also found in a gray 25 pin plug to the right of the fuse box, pin 2.
Trunk/Hatch Release black   5wi dr kick or BECU, 26 pin plug, pin 1
Notes: The Body ECU is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash.
Power Sliding Door N/A       
Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock       
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock       
Disarm No Unlock use key sense wire       
Tachometer black   ac   data link conn. under dash, pin 9
Notes: Can also go to any fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT white.
Horn Trigger white   -   sw or fuse box, rear 10P plug, pin 5
Memory Seat 1 N/A       
Memory Seat 2 N/A       
Memory Seat 3 N/A       
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
Yes Type:
Transponder

dk101010 wrote:

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When I wire my unlock doors using four wires and diode isolation, do I need to insulate the diodes covering the all?

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Yes, but you only need to connect the door unlock and lock wires. No diodes are necessary for these functions.

dk101010 wrote:

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what is the difference between "Door Tigger" and "Power Unlock" ?

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The door triggers are the wires that tell you that a door is open and the power unlock is the wire that will unlock the doors from the lock position. Here are the door trigger wires and the colors:
The LF door is blue at the BECU, 26 pin plug, pin 24. The RF door is yellow at the BECU, 28 pin plug, pin 21. The LR door is lt. green at the fuse box, R side, 13 pin plug, pin 7. The RR door is gray at the BECU, 28 pin plug, pin 5 or 7. Use all four wires and diode isolate each.

dk101010 wrote:

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Can I put the "Power Unlock" in parallel with the four wires and diode isolation or is this a wrong way to do?

Thank you

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Not necessary to do this. The only reason why you should even connect the door trigger is if your installing an alarm system, alarm/ remote starter combo system or a remote starter system designed for a manual transmission vehicle.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

dk101010 wrote:

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Can I put the "Power Unlock" in parallel with the four wires and diode isolation or is this a wrong way to do?

Thank you

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Not necessary to do this. The only reason why you should even connect the door trigger is if your installing an alarm system, alarm/ remote starter combo system or a remote starter system designed for a manual transmission vehicle.[/QUOTE]


I tried to connect to my alarm using the diode isolation with the driver's and passenger's wires in parallel. I can open the doors with my remote when I have my key in the ignition switch, but I can't open the door after I take out the key from ignition switch. Do you know what's wrong there?

thank you.

What system are you installing ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote:

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What system are you installing ?

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Ah, this system is a "2 way car alarm system with remote start". but I'm only trying to get the keyless entry and alarm to work now because I don't want to mess around with the ignition for now. I just found that there is a door trigger wire on same connector for the remote start. Now I want to ask. Do I have to connect these four door wires using diode isolation to the door trigger wire that I just found? And will the power unlock wire from the alarm module goes to the "Power Unlock gray (double pulse) - driver kick, 25pin plug, pin 8"? What's available to bypass the engine immobilizer?

Thank you.

Look on the front of the BCM where all the plugs are. On the right side there's a 12 pin plug with a brown wire with silver dots. Connect this to your alarms negative door trigger wire, no diodes, no connecting multiple wires. This will trigger the alarm on all 4 doors, easy. As for powerunlock, yes you have the right wire but it will require 2 pulses. The first will unlock the drivers and the second the rest,  Again, what system are you installing????

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

The system is call Steel Mate 8858. It is made by a Chinese company. I bought this off ebay. The link below should be a similar one but not exactly. Does the kind of engine bypasser I use depend on what my system is?

https://www.steel-mate.com/cgi-bin/ngen_details.pl?UCODE=761117&LANG=&LOOP=PROD

No you can use anyone's bypass. We use the 556U from DEI, but it will require you to lose your valet key....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

What is valet key? I'm guessing you mean the computer cheap inside the key. I just connected the trunk wires. It triggers the alarm when I open the it using the mechanical switch, but I couldn't get that to work using the remote. The trunk won't open. The wire I used is "Trunk/Hatch Release black   5wi dr kick or BECU, 26 pin plug, pin 1". I have looked at the older model Camry, and it seems like they must hook up with a relay in order for it to work. I'm not familar with what they is. Can someone explain to me how do I go about this.
Thank you.