any specific wood & size to used for mounting point? and 2nd will suregrip adhesive or any other adhesive work to hold the wood to the roof well enough without using screws and mounting to roof brace?
Thanks
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SoILL MotorSports
Any dense peice would work but I usually try to use a peice of metal if possible. You do not need to glue this peice of wood to the roof, all you need to do is have the monitor mount screw through the roof liner into the wood/metal and this will sandwich the liner and the monitor will not move.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
i guess the weight is distributed enough to keep the headliner from sagging? and would sheet metal work? either way thanks for the help
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SoILL MotorSports
I have to disagree, sorry. We always use a metal plate in the roof, i've seen screws strip out of wood too many times. We also always attch the metal plate to an existing metal beam in the roof. We uase mainly Advent units and they are heavy. If we were to attch it just to the headliner the unit would bounce as you drive making it hard to see. 90% of the cars on the road today have a support beam in the roof. If it has a sunroof you know it does. We average 300 overheads a month in our company and everyone gets done this way.
We do recon work for all the Carmax in the mid Atlantic and i see crappy screen installs every day that we have to remount. Tell us what kind of car it is and i may be able to get more specific on the mounting...
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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
i know every car is different, but just asking in general how it's done...i've seen it done a lot of different ways but not every way is the right way. i do a lot of side work doing radio and in-dash monitor installs, but haven't done a overhead yet and finding more and more people around here wanting them so like i said any help is a plus
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SoILL MotorSports
I have always used a piece of half inch MDF and siliconed it to the roof, then I just use screws through the headliner into the wood to mount the screen. Havent had it fail yet, although I have had to use metal on occasions where the headliner would not accomidate a 1/2 inch board and I am not comfortable using anything thiner
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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
glueing boards the the roof is NOT the proper way to do it. i have seen it done before and they alway eventually fall down. along with sandwiching a board above the headline is not a correct way to do it. the headline will eventually start to sag down.
the PROPER way to mount a monitor to a head line is to use a 1/8 board that you screw one end of it to the metal support in the car. and you attach the overhead to that board. now one end of the screen will mount to the support in the car and the other end use speed clips to sandwich the screen/headliner/board together. remember to use the SHORTEST screws possible.
when done this way many good thing come out of it. 1. you dont have to pull the headliner. 2. you have a very small hole cut into the headliner. 2. the screen will be extremmly flush the the headliner. 4. it doesnt vibrate at high speeds. 5. andthe headiner will never start to sag..
hope this helps!
jambostl wrote:
glueing boards the the roof is NOT the proper way to do it. i have seen it done before and they alway eventually fall down. along with sandwiching a board above the headline is not a correct way to do it. the headline will eventually start to sag down.
the PROPER way to mount a monitor to a head line is to use a 1/8 board that you screw one end of it to the metal support in the car. and you attach the overhead to that board. now one end of the screen will mount to the support in the car and the other end use speed clips to sandwich the screen/headliner/board together. remember to use the SHORTEST screws possible.
when done this way many good thing come out of it. 1. you dont have to pull the headliner. 2. you have a very small hole cut into the headliner. 2. the screen will be extremmly flush the the headliner. 4. it doesnt vibrate at high speeds. 5. andthe headiner will never start to sag..
hope this helps!
I don't understand this. How many boards are you mounting with your method? Speed clips? I'm getting confused just reading it. You don't drop the headliner not even a little bit? If your method is better then mine, I'd love to learn it.
I want my customers to have the best quality.
I just did my friends 98 Yukon a few minutes ago. What I did was:
1)Get a big sheet of board, about 30X60 inches,
2)Cut it in half, then epoxied both halfs together, it will now be 30X30, but twice as thick
3)Cut a 1" wide slot into the left side of the board where the wires would run to the left side B-pillar, That way you don't pinch the wire with the board.
4)cut a small "X" in the headliner in center of where the Flip down will be. This will be to run the wires
5)Then I lowered the headliner just a small crack from the right side, just to make sure the board will fit.
6)Then I put epoxy on top of the board, smeared it all around, to get a nice thick consistency.
7)Then I slid the board through the right side, and placed it in the center.
8)Hold the board up with hands for 5 minutes.( you can also use a stick or adjustable rod to hold it up for a few minutes while the epoxy cures.)
9)About an hour later, slide the cables through the 1" slot that I previously cut and is facing the left side b-pillar.
10)Mount the flip down monitor to the board which will now be secured to the roof.
I've done many many flip down monitors like this over the years and not once has failed or sagged. Even in cars and SUVs with loud soundsystems.
I've fixed other people's overhead monitor installs because they installed them wrong, didn't secure the board to the roof right, screws that they used backed out, etc....