2000 dodge neon viper 5501 inop

Alright. It remote starts now but only with the key in the ignition. I don't have to turn it I just have to have it in the ignition and it remote starts fine, otherwise it will start and then shut off almost immediately. Sound like a bypass problem? Kreg357: thanks for the wiring chart I printed it out and just took it with me when I connected up the rest of the wires.

Yes, sounds like a transponder bypass issue.  Did you install the antenna loop as directed in the guide?Did you connect the bypass modules' Brown GWR wire to the Vipers' Blue (-) 200mA Status Output wire?Did you perform Step 2 of the bypass programming successfully?Soldering is fun!

I have the loop antenna around the ignition as directed. I did not connect the bypass modules brown gwr wire to the vipers blue status output wire because based on the installation guidelines here: http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=6461&productid=121&firmwareid=746 I was under the impression it did not need to be connected in D2D mode. Is that correct? I thought I programmed it successfully but if the other two are right then I suppose its the only thing left that I may have done wrong. I will try to program it again and see what happens.

Sorry, I thought you were running in W2W mode.  If you are running in D2D mode, then there are only two wires to connect from the bypass.  The Brown GWR wire is handled by the D2D harness.  Are the Vipers D2D jumpers in the horizontal position?

I believe you should be using this install guide :  http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=6321&productid=123&firmwareid=746    It includes the transponder bypass programming step.

Soldering is fun!

That was my mistake when I linked to that one. The guide you have posted is the programming guide I had printed out. I will try to reprogram the transponder bypass again this afternoon and see where I get.

I couldn't get it programmed. I had tried to program it when I first installed it and I may have flubbed that one up. I think I'll go ahead and order another one.... its a shame but I'll just have to tally this one under lesson learned. I'll update when I program the new one.

Still no luck . I flashed the new one and plugged it in and followed the instructions to the letter. The only thing I noticed is when it gets to step 7 it tries to crank it doesn't just try to turn the ignition on. After trying a few times with the same results I decided to try programming the tach again in both voltage and tachometer mode (I have it wired to the gray/black on the ignition coil). It acts like its learning the tach signal because when I press the control button it lights up blue and stays solid fairly quickly. All in all, when I came back inside to type this up, the car is still exhibiting the same problem. It tries to crank and right when the engine gets going it turns back off again but... if I leave a key just sitting in the key hole (without having to turn it) it will crank up just fine then I can remove the key and it will stay on. If it will help I will try to take pictures of how I have the antenna loop wrapped around the crank and anything else that you recommend. I know one thing is for certain I shouldn't have tried to be big DIY-man on this one, geez. All I can do is say thank you for your help and I'll definitely be donating to this forum for helping me get this far.

That could be your problem, the car is cranking.  The programming instructions have you program the Viper unit for diesel mode.  When you press the Start button during programming at Step 7, the Viper will bring up all the ignition wires.  The Viper will not crank until it sees the  (-) "Wait to Start" input signal at H2/7.  That allows time, with all the necessary ignition wires powered, until the vehicle programs in the new "KEY" (the bypass module and its antenna loop). 

Try manually setting the Viper to Diesel 45 second delay, Menu 3, Item 9, Opt 4.  That might give it enough time at Step 7 to accept the new "KEY" before it tries to crank.

Soldering is fun!

Went out and gave what you suggested a shot. It doest appear that the light goes solid like its accepting the programming but it exhibits the same problem. If the bypass is accepting my programming should I even be able to repeat the programming process? Its almost like I can go back through those steps over and over and it will continue to act just like I'm programming it. Maybe its just not accepting my programming for some reason?

I tried unplugging the bypass altogether and the car behaves the same with or without it. Since that pretty much confirms to me that its a bypass issue I ordered one more bypass that is a different model that these other two.... if this doesn't do it then I quit. Hopefully a professional installation tech will be able to take what I have and finish the job for a discounted price..... hopefully.