2007 Dball2/Viper5301 MTS requirements

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bs1d3

Copper - Posts: 58

Joined: February 17, 2014

Location: United States

Posted: February 08, 2016 at 3:16 PM / IP Logged

Does it attempt to crank at all? What are you getting for parking light flashes?

loknar28

Copper - Posts: 63

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Joined: January 12, 2016

Location: Maryland, United States

Posted: February 08, 2016 at 5:05 PM / IP Logged

kreg357 wrote:

The DEI products MTS Reservation Mode is a PITA. That's why I prefer Compustar products. Here are their steps to

enter into Reservation Mode :

Activating Reservation Mode

STEP 1: Start the vehicle with the key. Place the transmission in neutral, remove pressure from the foot
brake, and set the emergency/parking brake.
STEP 2: Remove the key from the vehicle’s ignition. The vehicles engine should remain running even
after the key has been removed.
STEP 3: Exit the vehicle and close the door. The vehicle’s engine should shut off upon closing the door
and the doors will lock.

The Firstech Compustar system is in reservation mode and the vehicle is ready to safely remote start.

Pretty straight forward. Of course, everything must be connected and wired properly. At Step 1, when you step on the

brake pedal, release and set the EBrake, the Parking Lights come on and the car is kinda in PitStop Mode. At Step 3,

the engine will continue running until it sees a door open then and all the doors close. You can program a 10 second

delay between the last door closed and the door lock.

I agree about MTS being a picky PITA. After all what difference does it make if you follow a sequence or have all necessary conditions in place. Either scenario would assure the same level of safety.

2016 Toyota Highlander

2007 Honda Civic Si

2004 Honda Pilot EX

loknar28

Copper - Posts: 63

Joined: January 12, 2016

Location: Maryland, United States

Posted: February 08, 2016 at 5:10 PM / IP Logged

bs1d3 wrote:

Does it attempt to crank at all? What are you getting for parking light flashes?

It does not try to crank at all. I have a detailed list of events a few posts up.

Here is a direct link.

2016 Toyota Highlander

2007 Honda Civic Si

2004 Honda Pilot EX

loknar28

Copper - Posts: 63

Joined: January 12, 2016

Location: Maryland, United States

Posted: February 09, 2016 at 4:24 AM / IP Logged

mscguy wrote:

If the vehicle has a manual transmission the proper steps must be followed before

leaving the parked vehicle or the remote start feature is disabled.

1. Make sure the engine is running and the doors on the vehicle are closed.

2. Put the transmission in neutral.

3. Press on the brake in the vehicle.

4. Apply the emergency brake.

5. Release the brake.

6. Within 15 seconds activate the remote start from the remote.

7. The parking lights will flash 5-times confirming that the remote start is active.

If the parking lights do not flash 5-times, then repeat steps 1 - 6.

8. Turn off the ignition (the car stays running when key is turned off).

9. Exit the vehicle.

10. Lock the system. (the vehicle shuts off when locking the system).

You can now remote start the vehicle. If a door is opened before the next remote

start activation the system will not remote start.

Maybe that's why. You're starting the sequence with the parking brake engaged.

I wanted to clarify that I am getting to the end of this list of steps. I receive a MTS(7-Blinks) failure after completing step 10 and afterthe vehicle shuts off when locking the system.

2016 Toyota Highlander

2007 Honda Civic Si

2004 Honda Pilot EX

kreg357

Platinum - Posts: 7,827

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Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: February 09, 2016 at 5:51 AM / IP Logged

I feel your pain. It's so frustrating to have everything exactly right and not get the desired results.

With that era / Gen of Civic's, my philosophy was K.I.S.S. I would use a solid but inexpensive transponder bypass module

like the PKH34 and hardwire the rest. Most of the wires are right there at the fuse / junction box.

The four door trigger (-) wires are in the Green 42 Pin plug at the top of the fuse box.

Driver Front, Pin 37 = Green

Driver Rear, Pin 17 = Brown

Pass Front, Pin 3 = Light Green

Pass Rear, Pin 2 = Gray

Use four 1N4001 diodes ( bands towards the car ) to each wire then combines all wires into one and connect to

R/S (-) Door Trigger Input.

The Trunk Trigger (-) is in the same plug, Blue wire at Pin 37.

The Brake Pedal (+) wire is in that same plug, Light Green wire, middle of the top row of pins. You can also go to the

actual Brake pedal switch, same color wire.

You already have the Door Lock and Unlock wires. The Arm and Disarm wires are in the same MICU connector or

harness in the DKP. Arm is Orange or Pink ( 2 or 4 door ) and Disarm is Brown.

The E-Brake (-) can be found at the E-Brake switch or, if you don't want to run a wire to the center console, in a White Plug

on the right side of the steering column. Should be a very Light Blue wire.

Tach went to the non-common color wire at any F.I.

I would install a hood pin ( alarm ) or tilt switch ( R/S only ) and be pretty much done.

Soldering is fun!

loknar28

Copper - Posts: 63

Joined: January 12, 2016

Location: Maryland, United States

Posted: February 09, 2016 at 7:47 AM / IP Logged

kreg357 wrote:

I feel your pain. It's so frustrating to have everything exactly right and not get the desired results.

With that era / Gen of Civic's, my philosophy was K.I.S.S. I would use a solid but inexpensive transponder bypass module

like the PKH34 and hardwire the rest. Most of the wires are right there at the fuse / junction box.

The four door trigger (-) wires are in the Green 42 Pin plug at the top of the fuse box.

Driver Front, Pin 37 = Green

Driver Rear, Pin 17 = Brown

Pass Front, Pin 3 = Light Green

Pass Rear, Pin 2 = Gray

Use four 1N4001 diodes ( bands towards the car ) to each wire then combines all wires into one and connect to

R/S (-) Door Trigger Input.

The Trunk Trigger (-) is in the same plug, Blue wire at Pin 37.

The Brake Pedal (+) wire is in that same plug, Light Green wire, middle of the top row of pins. You can also go to the

actual Brake pedal switch, same color wire.

You already have the Door Lock and Unlock wires. The Arm and Disarm wires are in the same MICU connector or

harness in the DKP. Arm is Orange or Pink ( 2 or 4 door ) and Disarm is Brown.

The E-Brake (-) can be found at the E-Brake switch or, if you don't want to run a wire to the center console, in a White Plug

on the right side of the steering column. Should be a very Light Blue wire.

Tach went to the non-common color wire at any F.I.

I would install a hood pin ( alarm ) or tilt switch ( R/S only ) and be pretty much done.

Kreg357,

1)Thanks for the door trigger info. I have plenty of 1N4001 diodes in my man cave/electronics workshop for that, so I am good to go there.

2)Trunk Trigger (-) I will add the trunk wire W2W while I am there. Is there any chance that the Trunk Output is there as well? 2007 Dball2/Viper5301 MTS requirements - Page 4 -- posted image.

2007 Dball2/Viper5301 MTS requirements - Page 4 -- posted image.

3)Tach is already run directly to F.I.

4)The Brake peddle (+) is already W2W to the switch.

5)E-Brake is already W2W through the center console to the Handbrake Switch and providing a ground for the Neutral Safety wire.

6)Hood wire is run to the engine compartment but not connected yet while I'm testing since its N/O Contacts.

7)Arm/Disarm are currently handled as options in D2D. I will try W2W on those as well.

2016 Toyota Highlander

2007 Honda Civic Si

2004 Honda Pilot EX

kreg357

Platinum - Posts: 7,827

Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: February 09, 2016 at 8:21 AM / IP Logged

To do the Trunk Release directly ( instead of Data via the DB-ALL2 ) you will need a relay to convert the Vipers'

(-) Trunk Release Output to a (+) signal that the Civic needs. The (+) Trunk Release wire is in that same Green

42 Pin plug. It is a Green wire that will test as a (+) pulse when the trunk is popped. Relay wiring :

Relay Pin 85 to Viper (-) Trunk Release Output

Relay Pins 86 and 87 to +12V constant through a 10 Amp fuse

Relay Pin 30 to Civic Green wire

Relay Pin 87a not used

Soldering is fun!

loknar28

Copper - Posts: 63

Joined: January 12, 2016

Location: Maryland, United States

Posted: February 09, 2016 at 9:31 AM / IP Logged

Since, the snow is dumping pretty heavy right now I figured I would make up the diode pack and prep the anti-grind relay with the diodes it needs.

(-) Door Trigger relay pack🤓

Sorry, I could not help myself

2016 Toyota Highlander

2007 Honda Civic Si

2004 Honda Pilot EX

kreg357

Platinum - Posts: 7,827

Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: February 09, 2016 at 10:09 AM / IP Logged

Now if you could only train it to do a self-install... 2007 Dball2/Viper5301 MTS requirements - Page 4 -- posted image. Actually, that 42 Pin Plug is accessible, it's just the plug cover that is a PITA to remove.

Ah, a Hakko soldering station and quality Scotch electric tape. Excellent! I'm using their HAKKO FX 601 Soldering Iron for my in-vehicle work.

Soldering is fun!

loknar28

Copper - Posts: 63

Joined: January 12, 2016

Location: Maryland, United States

Posted: February 09, 2016 at 10:22 AM / IP Logged

Yeah, I have lots of tools for this sort of thing. I still have a decent gas soldering iron from when used to install commercial access control systems and CCTV. Unfortunately, it does not consistently hot enough to do the ignition wires. I ended up running an extension cord outside and used my Hakko. I work in IT now but I never lost the soldering bug.

Since the last photo it has evolved a bit. I really am bored, lol.

2016 Toyota Highlander

2007 Honda Civic Si

2004 Honda Pilot EX

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