Lock Problem in 2004 Grand Cherokee

I get that but probing the switch shows that it's supplying 5v DC so it's running on a 5v reference. If I jump it with 12v it's gonna fry my bcm or locks.

squallz wrote: That last diagram just confused me further since it doesn't label which pins to use on relays...

I posted this before seeing the last reply so disregard THIS post

This has my harness The 2 wires to the right on the top (pink/black and orange/black) are lock and unlock. One tests positive 5 volts when locked and the other tests positive 5 volts when unlocked. This is the whole panel. So what you're saying is that the wires from that harness, go down the side of the door and split at the tape then run back to the left side to the actuator. And I need to cut it between those points and wire in the relays.

Those 2 wires do indeed go to the actuator..but a few others do too? Edit: after re-checking, the power probe does show like a quick 8.3v flash (probably too quick to show up properly) but I have 2 power probes. If I power one with 12v then ground the other at the same time, it should do SOMETHING...

Here is a test to try on those wires. Cut the Orange/Violet wire in a convient place. Connect the Power Probe on the side going the door control switch. Press the switch to the Lock position. The probe should show +12V. If that is correct, connect the Probe to the same cut wire on the lock motor solenoid side and insert a +12V pulse. The door will lock. You can do the same process on the other Pink/Black wire, using the Unlock switch position. If you want to see an Unlock with the Power Probe, you must reconnect the Orange/Violet wire to supply the return ground path before inserting the +12V pulse.Soldering is fun!

Holy mother of all Christ. That actually worked. I just tested the lock wire and powered it with 12v and the driver's door locked. Edit: for some weird reason, my lock wire is actually orange and black not orange and violet

You learn something new, everyday. Pretty soon you'll be a 12V Professional and all your relatives will want Remote Starters installed in their cars. Yup I noticed that, too. Sometimes the colors change with age and sometimes the manufacturers make changes and sometimes the wiring guides are just wrong. That is why we always test first.Soldering is fun!

So now I do unlock for the driver's door, then lock and unlock for passengers side except the passengers side will lock/unlock all other doors (except drivers door) without having to do anything special (other than relays)? Would it really hurt if I put the relays up under the dash and used some heat shrink butt connectors? That way it'll help against the weather, plus I'll be able to get the door panel on easier than having big blocky relays in there

Yep, the Passenger side wires are parallel and will control the rear doors, too. Keeping the relays inside the Jeep would help prevent water and vibrations issues. It would allow for better power & RKE control connections and fusing. You would have to run 4 wires through the door boot and into the door for the solenoid wire connections. I would strongly recommend a soldered connection with heat shrink tube to seal & insulate.Soldering is fun!

Yeah, running those wires isn't really too scary to me. Thanks for all the help you are extremely appreciated sir. How do I rate you? Edit: soldering isn't too mandatory on my charts since it would be a pain in the ass to run an extension cord all the way outside to solder a few wires lol