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best 12 sealed sub enclosure for 1995

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=100873
Printed Date: July 07, 2025 at 2:51 AM


Topic: best 12 sealed sub enclosure for 1995

Posted By: joejitsu
Subject: best 12 sealed sub enclosure for 1995
Date Posted: January 07, 2008 at 12:34 PM

safari van. I have 1 12" dual voice coilover kicker cvr says 4 ohm on the magnet also. Thank you in advance

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Cobra Kai Never Die



Replies:

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 11, 2008 at 1:14 PM
get a custom box to fit the air space or just pick up a bassworx encluse @ bestbuy and your set.




Posted By: bellsracer
Date Posted: January 18, 2008 at 1:09 AM

Well that will depend on what sound you are looking for specifically. Size changes subtly change the response of the speaker and can enhance certain tones or eliminate them.

If you are looking to keep the sub as precise as possible and don't mind sacrificing a LITTLE bit of boom, then get a box that is roughly 1.25 cubic feet (cf) inside. If you are looking to do a bit more boom and cut back a little on the "higher" note clarity (about 100 Hz in particular) then lean towards a larger box say around 3-4 cf inside it.

Now the box size will also affect the power handling of the sub as well. By sticking it in a smaller box, you are now adding an acoustic "spring" to the sub and it will need more power to make it as loud as the same sub in a bigger box. Going with the 1.25 cfwill raise the power to 400 watts RMS handling. The 3-4 cf boxes will retain the 300w RMS handling as stated on the box itself.

Lastly, this is hte most important part (in my opinion) Assuming you will want to be able to hit the subs fairly hard (if not tearing them up), make sure your amp is 2ohm stable. MOST amps that are 2-channel bridgable are not stable at 2ohms and electronically they will see a short (even though it keeps running) and heat up losing lots of power and ability in the process (and in extreme cases, creating a burn hazard). Stick with a mono-block or preferably a Class-D amp for the sub. You pay a bit more, but the Class-Ds will be a lot more efficient than the standard A/B class amps. Wire up your coils in parallel and that should take care of your sub being stable with the amp.



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Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.





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