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2003 buick park ave rs problem


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turboneon 
Member - Posts: 37
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Joined: January 13, 2004
Posted: January 07, 2008 at 6:47 PM / IP Logged  
Hey All,
Had a Park Ave come in today with a non working rs from another shop that has closed. It was an Ultra Start that wasn't starting the car, but the locks/trunk worked. I reprogrammed the tach and it started twice then quit starting the car again.
I pulled the Ultra out and installed one of our Autopage rs-600's. Same problem as the Ultra, except I haven't gotten it to start the car. Locks/trunks work, but when I go to start it, a relay in the unit clicks once, then nothing, no output on any of the ignition/accessory/starter wires. I can do RS take over and it will keep the car running.
The tech at Autopage said he thought it could be a lack of voltage issue in the car. I am pulling power straight from the battery and have tried starting it with the car on a charger. Ground is on bare metal in the kick panel. I have power to all power wires at the unit.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I get the car back again tomommrow.
Thanks.
KarTuneMan 
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Joined: December 14, 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Posted: January 07, 2008 at 8:11 PM / IP Logged  

You have a solid 12v input, and NOTHING output?

Where is the tach coming from?

ziggyb222 
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Posted: January 07, 2008 at 8:24 PM / IP Logged  
Sounds like a PK3 issue...maybe???
turboneon 
Member - Posts: 37
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Joined: January 13, 2004
Posted: January 07, 2008 at 9:38 PM / IP Logged  
12v power is run straight from the battery.
When I hit the start button on the remote, I get one click from an internal relay on the unit. No output on an of the ignition wire from the unit.
As for the PK3 issue, the RS should output power to the ignition and starter wires. The PK3 has no effect of the outputs of the RS unit, only weather or not the car starts.
turboneon 
Member - Posts: 37
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Joined: January 13, 2004
Posted: January 07, 2008 at 9:42 PM / IP Logged  
Oh, tach wire is good and the unit sees it and programs to it. Lack of a tach signal still would not keep the unit from outputting power, only keep the car from starting.
The problem is the unit does not put out any power to the ingition/accessory/starter wires, not that the car does not start.
I have tried another unit, so there is something else that is going on that is not right.
Velocity Motors 
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Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 07, 2008 at 9:47 PM / IP Logged  
When you removed the old system you you remove it from the connections or did you just splice into the existing wires from the previous system ? Make sure that the connections are soldered from the previous system but it seems to me like a cold solder somewhere, fusing issue or a ground issue.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
turboneon 
Member - Posts: 37
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Joined: January 13, 2004
Posted: January 08, 2008 at 8:17 AM / IP Logged  
Velocity Motors wrote:
When you removed the old system you you remove it from the connections or did you just splice into the existing wires from the previous system ?
I completly removed it and made my own connections. Just like I was starting from scratch. All connections have been trippled checked.
Would the only connections that would cause something like this be the power/ground/neu safty/hood pin/brake wire? They all check out fine.
This is why it's giving me such a headache.
KarTuneMan 
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Posted: January 08, 2008 at 8:59 AM / IP Logged  

Ya know.... reviewing your initial post. The unit is not even attempting to start. YES the hood pin, the stupid nuetral safety. These sound like potentials for sure.

Any way of getting some type of fail to start code from this unit? To give you a direction to look.

turboneon 
Member - Posts: 37
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2004
Posted: January 08, 2008 at 6:17 PM / IP Logged  
Well, it looks like it was some sort of low voltage issue with the car, even though I could never confirm it. We had an old code-alarm still in the stock room so I tried that. I connected it to the other starters wires so all my origional wire connections were still the same. This made it so the only change ws the brand of the RS.
I also had a bypass issue. I confirmed it was a double problem as after the install of the new bypass and the code working, I plugged the autopage unit back in with the new bypass and it still did the exact same thing.
So in conclusion, it took a swap to a different brand unit.

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