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2003 durango r/s problem start then stop


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98k1500chevy 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: January 03, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 15, 2008 at 3:55 PM / IP Logged  
does the alarm disarm wire need to be hooked up on this vehicle in order for it to start and stay running? since it does not have the gray transponder key is there any other immobilizer?
tonyberg 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 08, 2005
Location: North Dakota, United States
Posted: January 15, 2008 at 7:58 PM / IP Logged  
no it does not need to be hooked up, if it was equipped with factory security the horn would honk for a while, but it would start and stay running
aaronrs4 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2008
Location: Iowa, United States
Posted: January 15, 2008 at 9:36 PM / IP Logged  
Where did you go for the tach signal? Try using a fuel injector and see if the issue is resolved. I have seen some Chrysler vehicles (mostly the trucks & SUVs) that certain remote starts dont like some tach signals but going to the fuel injector fixes it.
Install it like everyone will see EVERY part of it.
kdogg 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 16, 2008
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: January 16, 2008 at 9:06 AM / IP Logged  

Maybe I can help.

I happen to own a 2003 Dodge Durango SXT 4X4. Mine has the black key and I didnt have to use a 791 bypass module. I put in a Bulldog 500 Deluxe. I tied into the number 1 spark plug wire (yellow/Red) as the tach signal and have no problems at all. Maybe in the way you hooked up the ACC wires?

98k1500chevy 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: January 03, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 20, 2008 at 8:33 PM / IP Logged  
hey guys thanks for all the ideas and help, i am really great full, i have not had the time to check up on here or work on that vehicle in a little while, i will be in a couple days, as far as the tach signal goes, i hooked into the spark plug wire, not the GREEN/ orange, and as far as the acc wire setup, i try a couple of configurations because it has a secondary accesory and secondary ignition, and my remote start only had the output for one secondary ign. or acc. so i tried a couple different hook ups and got the same result on all of them. kdogg, could you tell me how you hooked yours up and what wires you hooked to, thanks again guys
offroadzj 
Gold - Posts: 2,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 21, 2008 at 8:46 PM / IP Logged  
Try these 2 diagnosis steps and let me knwo how you make out.
1) Put the key in the ignition and try remote starting it. If it starts, then somehow you have do have an immobilizer. If it still does not start, then move on to step 2.
2) Activate the r/s and right as the r/s turns the ignitions on, turn the key to the "on" position. If the vehicle stays running, then you are missing either an ignition wire or an accessory wire.
3) If that still doesnt work, then set the r/s to voltage sensing (if possible) just to see if it is the tach or not.
Also, what I have found is that on many chrysler vehicles when you program the tach rate, it is better to bring the rpm's up to about 1200 before programming it. The reason is that when it is warmed up, the rpms tend to be very low... so the r/s senses the tach too early and shuts down before the vehicle can start.... however this doesnt seem like it would be your issue since it is starting but not staying running.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
kdogg 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 16, 2008
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: January 22, 2008 at 5:13 PM / IP Logged  

I will look at my wiring tomorrow if I have a chance (I have 2 remote start keyless entry alarm installs to do).

The alarm that I put in had the second ign and I dont have rear controls so I didnt need the other ACC.

Check and see if you wired it per this becuase as far as I remember this is how I did mine.....

 MODEL YEAR(S)
 DURANGO  2001 -2003
 KEY T-HARNESS IMMOBILIZER
  CHRY KEY-4   N/A   CHRYSLER'S SENTRY ANTI-THEFT TRANSPONDER System (GRAY IGNITION KEY), Requires 791 Bypass Module and Extra Ignition Key
 PART  COLOR LOCATION
 12 VOLT CONSTANT  PINK/BLACK (+) and RED / LIGHT BLUE (+)   IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
 STARTER YELLOW (+)  IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
 STARTER 2 N/A 
 IGNITION 1 BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
 IGNITION 2 GREEN/ RED (+) 18 Gauge wire IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
 IGNITION 3 N/A  
 ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 DARK GREEN (+) Front Blower, Use Both  IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
 ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 BLACK/ ORANGE (+) Rear Blower  
 KEYSENSE N/A  
 PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) RED / YELLOW (-)  @ CTM, Connector 1, Pin4, See NOTE *1
 PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BLACK / YELLOW (+)  @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH
 POWER LOCK WHITE/ GREEN (1-Wire Door Lock System) See NOTE *2  @ CTM, Connector 2, Pin 10, See DIAGRAM
 POWER UNLOCK Same wire, See DIAGRAM  See DAIGRAM
 DOOR TRIGGER TAN (-) and TAN/RED (-) Use both, See NOTE *3  @ CTM, Connector 2, See NOTE *1
 DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION TAN (-), Requires #775 Relay  @ CTM, Connector 2, Pin 15, See NOTE *1
 TRUNK RELEASE N/A  
 SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A  
 HORN BLACK/ RED (-)  @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
 TACH See NOTE *4  @ IGNITION COIL
 WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A  
 BRAKE WHITE/ TAN (+)  @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
 FACTORY ALARM DISARM  DISARMS WITH UNLOCK, Single Pulse Disarms  
 ANTI-THEFT CHRYSLER'S SENTRY KEY (GRAY KEY ONLY) A TRANSPONDER SYSTEM See NOTE *5  TRANSPONDER @ IGNITION SWITCH TUMBLER
 EXTRA INFORMATION
 NOTE *1 the CTM (Central Timmer Module) is located in the DRIVERS KICK PANEL. NOTE *2 this vehicle uses a 1-Wire Door Locking system, with Factory Alarm, the ARM/LOCK requires a (-)Negative thru a 644 Ohm Resistor and DISARM/UNLOCK requires a (-)Negative thru a 1565 Ohm Resistor and a Double Pulse Unlock. On vehicles without Factory Alarm, LOCK requires a (-)Negative thru a 820 Ohm Resistor and UNLOCK requires a (-)Negative thrua 330 Ohm Resistor, some units will require 2 extra relays Part #775, to connect, See DIAGRAM NOTE *3 the DRIVERS DOOR is a TAN (-) at Pin 15, the PASSENGER DOOR (and the REAR DOORS if a 4 DOOR) is a TAN/RED (-) at Pin 13. When connecting to an ALARM SYSTEM, use BOTH DOOR TRIGGER wires and DIODE ISOLATE, See DIAGRAM. NOTE *4 on the 5.9L engine, use the BLACK/ GRAY wire at the IGNITION COIL for the TACH wire. on the 4.7L engine, use the wire that is NOT a GREEN/ ORANGE at the coil. NOTE *5 If your vehicle was manufactured before MAY 15, 2004 and you need to have another IGNITION KEY PROGRAMMED to be placed inside the 791 TRANSPONDER BYPASS Module to get around the CHRYSLER SENTRY KEY (GRAY KEY), YOU MUST have this KEY PROGRAMMED by your DODGE DEALER ONLY or the KEY WILL NOT PROGRAM .

98k1500chevy 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: January 03, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 23, 2008 at 3:22 PM / IP Logged  
hey guys thanks for all the help, well the vehicle is finally finished and working. i was reading what offroadzj was saying in his final sentences there, where he was talking about "when you program the tach rate" and it hit me, i had hooked everything up and it was getting the tach signal, BUT being a novice on his 4th remote start thinking i could just blow through it because they keep getting easier the more i do, i forgot the last step in installing this remote start, i never programmed the tach signal!!! programmed the tach and it works great, thanks again everyone for helping me out with this vehicle and putting up with an inexperienced installer!!!
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