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allmet33 
Copper - Posts: 112
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Joined: March 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 22, 2008 at 1:52 PM / IP Logged  
DYohn wrote:

allmet33 wrote:
So...can I assume that I really don't even need the capacitor in my system?  I can take it out and everything should run as it does now?

You don't even need a capacitor in your system.  You need to upgrade the big 3 and probably get an HO alternator.

Cool!  I have already begun looking into acquiring a HO alternator...any good suggestions (I'm dealing with a Hyundai here)???

One more question...do I have to worry about draining my battery if I'm cranking my music for long periods, even with the engine running?

'06 Hyundai Azera - Pioneer FH-P4200MP / Factory center channel & tweeters / Infinity Kappa 62.7i's; all 4 doors, 2 Phoenix Gold Xenon 10D2 10" subs pushed w/Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 amp
DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: July 22, 2008 at 1:57 PM / IP Logged  

allmet33 wrote:
One more question...do I have to worry about draining my battery if I'm cranking my music for long periods, even with the engine running?

Sure, if your alternator is severely overloaded, you have to worry about killing your battery, and killing your alternator, and potentially frying other electronics in the vehicle.  How low is the voltage getting?  As voltage drops, current demand increases dramatically to generate the same power (Ohm's Law.)  Current flow generates heat, and eventually something will fry.

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allmet33 
Copper - Posts: 112
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Joined: March 02, 2005
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Posted: July 22, 2008 at 2:00 PM / IP Logged  
DYohn wrote:

allmet33 wrote:
One more question...do I have to worry about draining my battery if I'm cranking my music for long periods, even with the engine running?

Sure, if your alternator is severely overloaded, you have to worry about killing your battery, and killing your alternator, and potentially frying other electronics in the vehicle.  How low is the voltage getting?  As voltage drops, current demand increases dramatically to generate the same power (Ohm's Law.)  Current flow generates heat, and eventually something will fry.

I can't tell you how low the voltage drops because I haven't had the system tested.  I can tell you based on my cap with the ditial read out, it goes from about 13.8 down to 12.3 and then back up, but I know that's only the cap, not the electrical system.  It must not be a terrible draw as my lights only dim when I really crank my music and the bass is dropping hard.

'06 Hyundai Azera - Pioneer FH-P4200MP / Factory center channel & tweeters / Infinity Kappa 62.7i's; all 4 doors, 2 Phoenix Gold Xenon 10D2 10" subs pushed w/Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 amp
DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: July 22, 2008 at 2:02 PM / IP Logged  
If the cap is properly installed, it will always be at the same voltage level as the system.  If the lowest it ever gets is 12.3 then that is not dangerous for the rest of the vehicle.  But you should use a real voltmeter and not rely on the cheap indicators attached to some caps.
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allmet33 
Copper - Posts: 112
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Joined: March 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 22, 2008 at 2:06 PM / IP Logged  

DYohn wrote:
If the cap is properly installed, it will always be at the same voltage level as the system.  If the lowest it ever gets is 12.3 then that is not dangerous for the rest of the vehicle.  But you should use a real voltmeter and not rely on the cheap indicators attached to some caps.

That's nice to know, but I will take your advice and get my system checked just to be sure. 

Would it make a difference if I switch to a digital amp (supposed to be less draw)???

'06 Hyundai Azera - Pioneer FH-P4200MP / Factory center channel & tweeters / Infinity Kappa 62.7i's; all 4 doors, 2 Phoenix Gold Xenon 10D2 10" subs pushed w/Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 amp
haemphyst 
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Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: July 22, 2008 at 8:07 PM / IP Logged  
It will be less draw, but still a significant draw for a stock electrical system. 1000 watts will still be at least 1000 watts in, it's just that a digital amp is more efficient at transferring those thousand watts to the speaker... Meaning it wastes less energy in the LV/HC to HV/LC conversion. I use .50 (50%) for Class A/B amps, and .85 (85%) for Class D amps.
1000/.5 = 2000 watts in for an A/B amp
2000 watts divided by 14.4 = 138A
1000/.85 = 1200 watts in for a D amp
1200 watts divided by 14.4 = 84A
You can see that even class D amplifiers will still tax your electrical system
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
allmet33 
Copper - Posts: 112
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 23, 2008 at 12:12 PM / IP Logged  

haemphyst wrote:
It will be less draw, but still a significant draw for a stock electrical system. 1000 watts will still be at least 1000 watts in, it's just that a digital amp is more efficient at transferring those thousand watts to the speaker... Meaning it wastes less energy in the LV/HC to HV/LC conversion. I use .50 (50%) for Class A/B amps, and .85 (85%) for Class D amps.
1000/.5 = 2000 watts in for an A/B amp
2000 watts divided by 14.4 = 138A
1000/.85 = 1200 watts in for a D amp
1200 watts divided by 14.4 = 84A
You can see that even class D amplifiers will still tax your electrical system

Understood...and again, thank you for your response.

'06 Hyundai Azera - Pioneer FH-P4200MP / Factory center channel & tweeters / Infinity Kappa 62.7i's; all 4 doors, 2 Phoenix Gold Xenon 10D2 10" subs pushed w/Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 amp
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