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rs 1000 in 2001 chevrolet silverado


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CutDog504 
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Joined: May 14, 2002
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: December 31, 2008 at 12:01 AM / IP Logged  
I'd like to chime in on this with a few tips. I've installed a autopage rs660 (VERY similar to yours) on my 01 suburban. I agree with joch1314 on placement of the brain, thats where I put mine. Just firmy pul at the whole corner panel with the headlight switch and AC vent and that lil storage pocket. That whole section is held in with clips and you can pop it straight out and see a huge empty void behind there. Looking up from underneath the dash by the brake pedal, you can't see this area. It was a tight squeeze working the brain in thru the opening, but once I got it past that AC duct, its got plenty of room back there. Kind of a pain to get it secured with some zip ties tho.
On another note, the autopage alarms have the parking light wire fused at the power wire (I think it was RED / white) that supplies power to the internal parking light relay. But there is no fuse on the white wire that connects to the parking light wire in the vehicle. You should add a 10 amp fuse to this white wire. I didn't on mine and I wish I had. I frequently tow a trailer, and have remote started my truck with the trailer connected. So not only was was white wire powering my parking lights, but all the running lights on my trailer. It eventually melted that white wire and caused me problems. I finally figured it all out(after days of digging into my dash and probing) and had to replace that section of wire. So I HIGHLY reccommend you fuse that white parking light wire, especially in you use your truck to tow a trailer.
bertleaf 
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Joined: November 21, 2008
Location: Alabama, United States
Posted: December 31, 2008 at 4:09 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks guys.  I'm not sure what I did yesterday but the RED / white in the truck does definately have constant +12v.

How would I test for the factory disarm wire, I tried the lt. green in the purple plug but I just get constant power and it doesn't seem to change when I unlock with the remote or the switch. 

CutDog504 where did you end up putting your shock sensor?  My manual doesn't say much about it.

chriswallace187 
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Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 31, 2008 at 6:16 PM / IP Logged  
Light green in the purple plug should go to ground when you turn the key to unlock in the driver's door cylinder. The power lock switch and remote don't affect it.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
CutDog504 
Silver - Posts: 637
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Joined: May 14, 2002
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: January 01, 2009 at 9:19 AM / IP Logged  
I beleive I just zip tied it around a wire harness under the dash, but its still accessible if i lok up from the brake pedal area. That way I can fine tune the sensitivity if I ever choose to, without having to tear apart my dash.
another-kelly 
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Joined: July 11, 2004
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Posted: January 01, 2009 at 9:21 PM / IP Logged  
bertleaf wrote:
How would I test for the factory disarm wire, I tried the lt. green in the purple plug but I just get constant power and it doesn't seem to change when I unlock with the remote or the switch. 
test it by unlocking with the key in the drivers door
CutDog504 
Silver - Posts: 637
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Joined: May 14, 2002
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: January 02, 2009 at 7:45 AM / IP Logged  
Also, to test the factory disarm wire, the drivers door has to be closed. OR the latch has to be closed so that the BCM thinks the door is closed.
bertleaf 
Member - Posts: 20
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Joined: November 21, 2008
Location: Alabama, United States
Posted: January 03, 2009 at 9:49 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks guys, that worked.  I just assumed that it disarms the factory security when you unlock with the switch or the remote but i guess the circuitry for that is elsewhere.

I've been kinda busy but I got everything hooked up and it locks, unlocks, arms, disarms, triggers, starts, and shuts off as expected so I'm happy with it.  I just gotta clean up all the wires tomorrow and reassemble the interior of the truck.  

Thanks everyone for your help, probably wouldn't have happened without.

Chriswallace187 I have found your service to be cheap, quick, and good - all three.

chriswallace187 
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Joined: March 11, 2002
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Posted: January 04, 2009 at 5:01 AM / IP Logged  
bertleaf wrote:
Chriswallace187 I have found your service to be cheap, quick, and good - all three.
Crap...I better start charging for this stuff. rs 1000 in 2001 chevrolet silverado - Page 4 - Last Post -- posted image.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
bertleaf 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 21, 2008
Location: Alabama, United States
Posted: January 18, 2009 at 2:05 PM / IP Logged  
Well it's been a few weeks now and everything is working dandy, well mostly.
I think I must have done something wrong with the Passlock bypass. It starts fine when using the remote but when I put the key in the ignition and turn it to on and then hit the brake, the security light comes on and stays on till I shut the truck off and start again. When using the key to start it works normally. Everything works fine but as I understand the security light shouldn't come on at all if the bypass is done correctly?
Just another quick question, is it possible to add more sirens to this system? I recently saw sirens for a few dollars at a store that look like they are made by the same company that made the one that came with my alarm. They come in the same white box with no name or anything and they look identical except for a few different numbers on the stickers(6-tone) and the one with the alarm is 1-tone. I'm not sure the wire from the unit supplies enough power for more sirens and I think the siren needs some sort of driver (or whatever it's called) because just giving it 12volts does nothing.
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