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i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: June 29, 2009 at 8:05 PM / IP Logged  

There is obviously more than one harness in that area.  If he had the wire colors, he would be able to identify the correct harness and take his readings there. 

Did you even get the Ground Control reference?   Only for Tommy.

tommy... 
Gold - Posts: 1,901
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 29, 2009 at 8:38 PM / IP Logged  

This is the question(first paragraph)...And here is the link to the site...  http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/21/2118114.page  Quite a few responses...2nd part was one of the answers...Good Luck...

Strange but true...i will keep this as brief as possible and answer questions if i leave anythign important out.

Car is a 2001 Escape with the v-6 auto with 75000 miles.
Up until this past summer it has been pretty reliable...here is the story:
Driving home after the car was parked for a week at an airport and had major acceleration problems. Took it to the deal and he said probably just a cracked coil wire but it seemed fine to hime and he sent us on our way.
Fast forward to recent weeks...when my daughter drove the car from her house to mine and this was the first EGR valve explosion about a mile from our house. Had it towed to the dealer and he replaced the EGR valve and the primary cat and took my 1200 dollars and ssent me home with my "fixed" car. Drove home from the dealer and all was well until the next day when the car was bucking all over again. Called the dealer and he said maybe a coil needed to be replaced but he was certain all was fine. The following week it drove fine for the first 2 days...until the EGR valve exploded.
Called the dealer and he said yeah must be a defective part and he gave me a new one...which exploded after 2 miles.
I am going to drive the car up to him tomorrow and tell him to fix it and i do not expect to be charged for anything until it is FIXED. If i didn't have 1200 dollars on the table i would never take it back to this dealer

This drawing shows the Fuel Pressure & Temperature Sensor (FP & T) on top of the engine: http://www...52801e8fdd Pull the hose off and see if there is any fuel in the vacuum hose. There should not be any fuel in the vacuum hose. If there is, the fuel pressure signal sent to the engine computer will be in error, and the fuel will go into the vacuum lines to whichever vacuum line, or intake manifold, has the lowest vacuum. The lowest vacuum, in route to the intake manifold, may be the EGR Valve. I don't have the complete vacuum distribution diagram. Your repairer should have that diagram.

The FP & T Sensor has a vacuum line which, in the usual applications, controls the fuel pressure; but, in your system the vacuum doesn't control the fuel pressure. The fuel pressure on your car is 70 psi, which is only 5 psi high. The FP & T Sensor vacuum diaphragm may be ruptured. This ruptured diaphragm would allow raw fuel to go into the vacuum hose--and on from there.
You haven't said anything about the check engine light being on. Is it, and what is the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code)? I expect something like P1211, or P1236.
We await your response.

The fuel flow (injection) is 'way too high! The question is, "Why?", first; and, what to do about it, secondly. Some reasons:
The fuel pressure (supposedly) is 70 psi. Let's assume that this value is at idle. I think that, at idle, the fuel pressure should be 30 - 45 psi. The allowable fuel pressure (at max engine output?) is 55 - 65 psi. If the fuel pressure is 70 psi, at idle, why? That's where your ace mechanic comes in, to find out why.
What directly controls fuel pressure? As I understand your 'fuel control system', the PCM (engine computer) gets data from the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature), IAT (Intake Air Temperature), MAF (Mass Air Flow), O2 (oxygen) sensors, and the FP&T (Fuel Pressure & Temperature) sensors.
The PCM uses this data to control the fuel pump module, the fuel pump relay (before the FP), and another fuel pump relay (after the FP). The PCM is constantly energizing and de-energizing these relays to control fuel pump action (duty cycle).
The mechanic needs to check the values of the sensors to the PCM; then, the duty cycle of the fuel pump module.
All of this stuff is in the Ford scan tool/computer, in the factory repair manual, and in the alldata.com charts. All that is left is for someone to use it.
The voltage values (or, frequencies) of the sensors vary with engine speed and load. The voltage values need to be compared to the spece'd values at different engine speeds/loads. Here are some of those expected values (use the values for the 3.0L engine): http://www...52801e8fbc
This Ford Motor Company pdf "2001 MY OBD System Operation" may be of interest, especially as it involves the catalytic converter operation. http://act...18826.page
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
tommy... 
Gold - Posts: 1,901
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 29, 2009 at 9:03 PM / IP Logged  

3.0L Engine

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
     
  2. Release the fuel system pressure
     
  3. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
     
  4. Remove the upper intake manifold.
    ford techs - Page 3 - Last Post -- posted image.
    ford techs - Page 3 - Last Post -- posted image.ford techs - Page 3 - Last Post -- posted image.

    Fig. Fuel rail and injectors-3.0L engine

     
  5. Disconnect the fuel tube quick release coupling.
     
  6. Disconnect the fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor vacuum tube
     
  7. Disconnect the fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor electrical connector.
     
  8. Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connectors.
     
  9. Remove the fuel rail bolts.
     
  10. Remove the fuel rail.
     
  11. Remove the fuel injector.
     
  12. Remove the fuel injector O-ring seals.
     
  13. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Install new fuel injector O-ring seals.
     
  14. Lubricate the new O-ring seals with clean engine oil before installing. Torque the fuel rail bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
     
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
dvaldez0989 
Copper - Posts: 98
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 11, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: July 06, 2009 at 11:34 AM / IP Logged  

do you think it is also possible that it could be bad o2 sensors???

KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: July 06, 2009 at 1:04 PM / IP Logged  
It is possible, but I would think a stuck injector first, especially since you are getting individual cylinder errors.
Kevin Pierson
Mad Scientists 
Silver - Posts: 380
Silver spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 06, 2009 at 5:03 PM / IP Logged  

First, there are three cats on that vehicle.. you've straight piped the downstream cat. If it was bad, I'd suspect the upstreams are also. You can pull the upstream O2 sensor on each upstream cat and measure exhaust back pressure. You might be able to measure back pressure from the DPFE sensor.. at least for the bank the sensor is connected to.

Tell us what the scan tool is saying for injector pulse width and O2 sensor readings.. if you've replaced the injectors and all 6 coils then you know that it's not difficult to remove the upper half of the intake.. I would pull it off again and make sure you didn't reverse the coil harness connections. The numbers should be on the harness for each cylinder.

How many misfire numbers are you seeing for 4&6? Any trouble codes? What's the fuel pressure?

J

dvaldez0989 
Copper - Posts: 98
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 11, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: August 12, 2009 at 1:57 PM / IP Logged  
ok guys a little update on the escape. it is still running like crap. lol i replaces the o2 sensors one of them was completly melted so i figured that the cat on the manifold was clogged. i took it off and come to find out it is hollow there is nothing in it i was very surprised. after a long day at the shop i put it back together and i am still stumpped. i have a buddy that said he can check it out for me he works at ford. he said for $100 bucks he can tell me what is wrong. im scared that it will take more then an hour and it doesnt end up being $100 do you think it is worth the money???
tommy... 
Gold - Posts: 1,901
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2009 at 9:22 AM / IP Logged  
Well how far can you drive currently...? If it is a friend...Wheres the employee discount...ford techs - Page 3 - Last Post -- posted image. Maybe re-read all the posts...And post some answers to the questions asked...Just a thought...But its free...And it sounds like your close to identifying the problem...!
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
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