pkfm on '09 f 150

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jim hunter

Silver - Posts: 351

Joined: March 23, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: July 25, 2009 at 11:22 AM / IP Logged

hes referring to something wrong with remote starter no=t trucks starter

if the dash isnt turning on you have miswired something on the ignition circuits,you must not have the proper ign wire,if you did it would at least turn the dash on just wouldnt crank if bypass was prob, they didnt change the transponder chip for 09 just a couple wires/location

truck has 1 ign(WHITE/ org), 1 access(WHITE/ grn), 1 starter(blue/white)

does the system lock/unlock the doors?

remove the bypass from the circuit, and get the remote start to work via key sitting in cylinder first then move on to the interface/bypass

you may have bad ground, poor 12v constant,this is why shop wants to remove system, they want to reconnect to all known points and wires that they have used with success , otherwise it would take tlonger to diagnose system wire by wire with your install, also, to only repair part of the wiring would make it next to impossible to warranty any fasilure(till inspected could be your wire theirs or unit, they just want to make sure they do it all therefore if a problem occurs its on their end or d.e.i.'s end, not a guessing game )

fordguy218

Member - Posts: 32

Joined: July 11, 2009

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: July 25, 2009 at 11:31 AM / IP Logged

jim:

thanks for your reply. i'll doublecheck the ignition wire. pretty sure it's the right WHITE/ orange. the accessory you listed (WHITE/ green), are you sure that's not violet/green?

Yes, the system locks/unlocks the doors.

I have a great +12V Constant. I ran a 10-gauge wire straight from the battery with an inline fuse. I grounded to a factory ground just underneath the steering column where about 6 other grounds were heading.

Daniel

moonliter

Copper - Posts: 322

Joined: February 28, 2007

Location: Canada

Posted: July 25, 2009 at 3:50 PM / IP Logged

Heavy Gauge Harness (H3)

H3/1 (Ignition 1). PK to WH/OG

H3/2 (Ignition 2). RD/WH –N/U

H3/3 (Accessory). OG to VT/GN

H3/4 (Starter Input). VT to BU/WH (ignition side)

H3/5 (Starter Output). GN to BU/WH (starter side)

H3/6 (Igntion 1 Relay). RD –N/U

H3/7 (Ignition 2 Relay). PK/WH –N/U

H3/8 (87a). PK/BK –N/U

H3/9 (Acc/Starter Relay). RD/BK –N/U

Ok, after reviewing your wirings, I wondered why 2, 6 & 9 are NOT connected to constant +12 volt ?

fordguy218

Member - Posts: 32

Joined: July 11, 2009

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: July 25, 2009 at 4:00 PM / IP Logged

moonliter wrote:

Heavy Gauge Harness (H3)

H3/1 (Ignition 1). PK to WH/OG

H3/2 (Ignition 2). RD/WH –N/U

H3/3 (Accessory). OG to VT/GN

H3/4 (Starter Input). VT to BU/WH (ignition side)

H3/5 (Starter Output). GN to BU/WH (starter side)

H3/6 (Igntion 1 Relay). RD –N/U

H3/7 (Ignition 2 Relay). PK/WH –N/U

H3/8 (87a). PK/BK –N/U

H3/9 (Acc/Starter Relay). RD/BK –N/U

Ok, after reviewing your wirings, I wondered why 2, 6 & 9 are NOT connected to constant +12 volt ?

Here are the descriptions for each as per the Viper 5901 installation manual.

H3/1. Ignition 1 Input/Output. Connect this wire to the igntion wire in the vehicle. This wire not only supplies voltage for the ignition line in the vehicle, it is also the igntion feed for the security system.

H3/2. (+) (30A) Fused Ignition 2/Flex Relay Input 87. This wire is the polarity feed for the ignition 2/flex relay.

H3/3. Accessory Output. Connect this wire to the accessory wire that powers the climate control system.

H3/4. Starter Output. This wire hooks up to the starter side of the starter wire in the car. This wire is also pin 30 of the onboard starter kill relay.

H3/6. (+) (30A) Fused Ignition 1 Relay Input. This wire is the polarity feed for the ignition 1 relay.

H3/9. (+) (30A) Fused Accessory/Starter Relay Input. This wire is the polarity feed to the accessory and starter relays.

I have H3/1 spliced into the ignition wire. H3/2 is for a second ignition circuit (which I don't have). H3/6 - don't need this because H3/1 is supplying the signal, right? H3/9 - don't need this because H3/3 and H3/4 are supplying the signals, right?

This security system has onboard relays for the starter, ignition, and parking lights. The only relays I had to install were for the door lock/unlock.

Daniel

jim hunter

Silver - Posts: 351

Joined: March 23, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: July 25, 2009 at 4:47 PM / IP Logged

there in lies your problem! the viper unit has 3 constant hots, h3/6 and h3/9 have to go to constant hot, these are the relay feed lines so that the output wires send 12 volts upon start, the red and white i believe is not required to go to constant hot as your not using the pink/white (2nd ign/acc line) but as it sits the way you have it wired your sending 12v to the brain for functions but you have no 12v for the starter relay or the ignition feed relay upn remote start

also why did you use relays for door locks? that trucks door lock wires are negative tap ins

fordguy218

Member - Posts: 32

Joined: July 11, 2009

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: July 25, 2009 at 5:12 PM / IP Logged

jim hunter wrote:

also why did you use relays for door locks? that trucks door lock wires are negative tap ins

jim: That makes a great bit of sense. I wonder if perhaps that is the entire problem!? As for why I used relays with the door locks... the unit has the green wire and blue wire that sends out opposite signals on lock or unlock, right? So I tapped into the the C2280C harness (PIN 17 VT/GY and PIN 4 GY/YE) and connected them to the 30 output of two relays. The 09 F-150 is 3-wire negative so I did this....

pkfm on '09 f 150 - Page 3 - Last Post -- posted image.

Daniel

yimke

Copper - Posts: 417

Joined: June 23, 2009

Location: Nebraska, United States

Posted: July 25, 2009 at 6:10 PM / IP Logged

fordguy218 wrote:

robertsc wrote:

yimke wrote:

Robert- If I said it was easy, I say it all the time. Except for stuff I hate doing.

Its easy if you know what your doing.

Troubleshooting and knowing what to do is half the job.

People always bash our industry they all think its so easy until it dosn't work.

Therefore thinking that we charge to much.

robertsc: I don't have a problem paying for a service, but I do believe that $65-$85 per hour is somewhat expensive when I ask for a roundabout figure and the installer can't give me an estimate ("Oh I don't know how long it'll take... I have to break her open and see" - my personal opinion but if you work on vehicles all the time installing systems, you would think you'd have SOMEWHAT of a clue). So I'm trusting this installer to work hard and if he gets lucky I'll get my truck back in 2 hours. Or I may get screwed and it takes him 4 hours and I'm paying $250+... I'll do it myself. If they guy could have given me an answer, I'd trust him more. But don't screw around with people's money.

Not to mention that this guy has absolutely 0% customer service skills. Come on man, be a fellow citizen to society and help a person out when he's trying to learn a skill that you already know. If I have everything (presumably) hooked up properly and there are three wires I'm unsure of... why not just throw me some advice on where I need to go with these?

At the same time he was thinking, if I quote him too high he will go away, but if I quote him too low, i will get screwed out of MY money.

No offense, but we like to get paid for our work properly. I'm not going to charge you for an hour if it took me 5 minutes. That's why I say as long as it takes me, $80 an hour. You call the shot when to stop.

yimke

Copper - Posts: 417

Joined: June 23, 2009

Location: Nebraska, United States

Posted: July 25, 2009 at 6:12 PM / IP Logged

double post

fordguy218

Member - Posts: 32

Joined: July 11, 2009

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: July 25, 2009 at 6:20 PM / IP Logged

yimke wrote:

At the same time he was thinking, if I quote him too high he will go away, but if I quote him too low, i will get screwed out of MY money.

This would've taken me 15 minutes to find, fix, and paperwork. So ideally you would've been paying $20 for ease of mind, and great service.

Well yimke, there's the difference. With you, I would have walked out with a truck that worked, $20 less in my pocket, and a good bit of happiness because I had a quality line of customer service. I didn't feel like I would have had that with this guy... it may have created a different reaction if he hadn't told me that he was going to RIP everything out that I had already done. Wouldn't it have been more appropriate to say, I have to DOUBLE-CHECK your wiring, but leave it as it is?

Sounds like you would have helped me out, why can't all installers be like you?

Daniel

yimke

Copper - Posts: 417

Joined: June 23, 2009

Location: Nebraska, United States

Posted: July 26, 2009 at 10:11 AM / IP Logged

I guess that is what separates some from the others. But I don't give detailed tech advise at work, so I guess people can perceive me as mean. Even though I will post info on here after work. But help a brother out, I got to feed my family too.

I probably would have given you two options.

Either

A. Let me redo the entire install so you have a lifetime craftsmanship with me. Probably around $250

B. Let me try to fix it, but with no warranty through me.

Usually people choose the cheaper option and I don't blame them. I feel in general, there is just a lack of options/communication in this business.

As for your lock/unlock wire setup up there, that is fine, but you really don't need relays unless it says you have to. Otherwise you could just go (-)green lock wire (-)blue unlock wire and hook them in. But your method does not hurt either, just more work.

I'm glad we got it fixed for you though. pkfm on '09 f 150 - Page 3 - Last Post -- posted image.

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pkfm on '09 f 150

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