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2010 toyota rav4


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tedmond 
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Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 23, 2010 at 8:31 PM / IP Logged  

they do not need to be connecte when using D2D, however i prefer wire 2 wire method.

that basically means wire up all the wires marked in red.

Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 23, 2010 at 9:01 PM / IP Logged  

As far as wiring between the iDatalink module and the R/S...

If the iDatalink module is handling the door locks for you, then you connect the R/S door lock outputs to the iDatalink module only.  No need to connect to the cars lock wires.  The iDatalink module will pass the lock commands along to the car thru the CAN high / low wires.  Anything the iDatalink doesn't do has to be connected from the R/S to the car, like parking lights or horn, etc. 

Additionally the iDatalink module will supply a Tach signal and the Brake (+) signal to the R/S so you won't have to connect the R/S to those wires in the car, just connect between the R/S and the iDatalink modules.

Soldering is fun!
pitoaudiovisual 
Copper - Posts: 388
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Joined: April 25, 2005
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 28, 2010 at 9:10 PM / IP Logged  
Just an update i did the remote starter today and found a negative wire that does a single unlock and also disarms the factory alarm. It is a black wire next to the pink lock wire in the white connector.
Confidence is the key to any project!!
pkwun98 
Member - Posts: 9
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Joined: April 21, 2010
Location: New York, United States
Posted: April 25, 2010 at 10:03 AM / IP Logged  

Can you provide some experience with the 2010 RAV4 install?

For some reason I'm not able to detect the following 2 wires: (what am i forgetting?)

LOCK  Pink  On white plug in driver's kickpanel  -

UNLOCK  Blue (double pulse)  On white plug in driver's kickpanel  -

But I did detect a (-)pulse on the black wire on a white plug in driver's kickpanel for the unlock switch on door.

And other wires I was looking for in ignition switch harness and fusebox area were detected.

Thanks

pitoaudiovisual 
Copper - Posts: 388
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 25, 2005
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: April 25, 2010 at 6:35 PM / IP Logged  
u have to use a volt meter and in the driver kick there is a white harness at the bottom  u have to check the wires which i believe are pink and black. U have to test each wire while turning the key in the driver door cylinder.
Confidence is the key to any project!!
pkwun98 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: April 21, 2010
Location: New York, United States
Posted: April 25, 2010 at 7:55 PM / IP Logged  

Yes i used a voltmeter on the wires. but i didn't get a ground on the 2 wires when i pressed the lock & unlock buttons on the key.

i should have tried the key on the door too - but i assumed the keyless entry buttons on the key would produce the same results. i have to do that next to see if there's a difference.

But what i want to do is use the keyless entry buttons to activate/deactivate an alarm system by using those 2 wires as inputs.  I'm putting in the Viper 330 alarm.

Thanks for your response.

pkwun98 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: April 21, 2010
Location: New York, United States
Posted: April 28, 2010 at 7:32 PM / IP Logged  

Finally got to test the following wires:

LOCK Pink On white plug in driver's kickpanel - (This is for key-on-door lock)

UNLOCK Blue (double pulse) On white plug in driver's kickpanel - (This is key-on-door unlock)

And the keyless entry buttons on the key do not initiate a ground pulse on these wires. So they are isolated from the door cylinder key actions.

Can someone provide the wiring locations for the keyless entry buttons?

I want to use the OEM keyless entry buttons as inputs to activate/deactivate an alarm system, the Viper 330V alarm.

Thanks,

pitoaudiovisual 
Copper - Posts: 388
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 25, 2005
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: April 28, 2010 at 9:01 PM / IP Logged  
u might have to buy a bypass for that i think idata link sells something like that  cause i know when i did the install and i lock the door the factory alarm turns on after a while. it works with the lock and unlock so u might have to buy a bypass to control the alarm by the keyless entry remotes
Confidence is the key to any project!!
pkwun98 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: April 21, 2010
Location: New York, United States
Posted: April 29, 2010 at 1:20 PM / IP Logged  

Isn't a bypass used for remote start?

And I don't have a factory alarm system, only keyless entry. 

pitoaudiovisual 
Copper - Posts: 388
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 25, 2005
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: April 29, 2010 at 10:33 PM / IP Logged  
well there are different types of bypasses some which are for remote start and others that will control the  use of the keyless entry in the form u want to and some that are combos and you dont connect the wires from the remote starter part of it. It can be used in the form in which u can activate an aftermarket alarm u may need a bypass to control the vehicle functions like keyless entry. If u go to bypasskit.com and idatalink it will show u what i mean.
Confidence is the key to any project!!
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