the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

a pillar work, need opinion on my steps


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
thunderplains 
Member - Posts: 44
Member spacespace
Joined: August 09, 2009
Location: Connecticut, United States
Posted: March 23, 2010 at 2:38 PM / IP Logged  
Been working on my install for awhile and I am at the a-pillar portion of the install.
Here is what I have done so far and my next steps.. I would like some feedback and any advice that would make these turn out good..
I have constructed MDF rings for the tweeters & mid-range. Using a laser aiming device, I set the position of the tweeters and mids.
I have glued the rings to the pillars with some dowels in the position I want them with some CA glue. I have also drilled multiple holes around and at the ends for the FG resin to adhere well.
So, next steps..
I have cut out the area behind the tweet and mid for space, now I need to wrap the pillar in grille cloth.
Q: What is the best way to adhere the GC to the pillar and the rings?
Once done, apply enough resin to thoroughly coat cloth (Not over saturate) and let dry overnight.
Next step: Trim off excess grill cloth.
Q: What is the best way to do this and make it look "clean"
I was them going to mix some short hair filler and resin and then pour in on the inside of the pods for reinforcement.
Q: Best way to do this? I got this from a few FG installers
Cut out tweeter & mid openings. Sand grill cloth, gold body filler, sand, fill, sand until smooth and shape is what you want it.
Q: WHEN should I sand the filler??   when it is completely dry or somewhere in between?
Once the pods are done, I want to prime it. The pillars have a texture to them, so I was thinking of using a high build flexible primer (SEM) to "fill it in" and prime it gray and smooth.
Q: Is there a better way to do this? they are going to be covered in grill cloth.
Once finished, I am going to cover them in GC as a finish.
Q: How does one adhere the GC to the pillar? and do you adhere it on both the front and back, or just the back?
If I am missing anything, please let me know.. and i appreciate the feedback..
Thanks - Steve
thunderplains 
Member - Posts: 44
Member spacespace
Joined: August 09, 2009
Location: Connecticut, United States
Posted: March 24, 2010 at 9:09 AM / IP Logged  
Anyone?
91stt 
Silver - Posts: 564
Silver spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 24, 2006
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: March 24, 2010 at 11:02 AM / IP Logged  
Everyone have slightly different techniques but this is what I would do.
I have cut out the area behind the tweet and mid for space, now I need to wrap the pillar in grille cloth.
Q: What is the best way to adhere the GC to the pillar and the rings?
A: You can use CA glue to attach the g/c to the back of the pillar trim piece. This will make for a better transition than gluing on the front only. If you are not planning to cover the entire trim piece at this time, you can CA glue the edges of the g/c that runs across the front. Personally, I would not bother with adhesive to attach the g/c to the rings since the f/g resin will take care of that for you.
Once done, apply enough resin to thoroughly coat cloth (Not over saturate) and let dry overnight.
Next step: Trim off excess grill cloth.
Q: What is the best way to do this and make it look "clean"
A: If you glue the g/c to the back there should be very little trimming. A razor blade will take care of any trimming you need to do.
I was them going to mix some short hair filler and resin and then pour in on the inside of the pods for reinforcement.
Q: Best way to do this? I got this from a few FG installers
A: Pour it in from the back. The trick here is to mix it thin enough that it flows but thick enough for it to stick and stay without sagging.
Cut out tweeter & mid openings. Sand grill cloth, gold body filler, sand, fill, sand until smooth and shape is what you want it.
Q: WHEN should I sand the filler??   when it is completely dry or somewhere in between?
A: For shaping, I like to use a cheese grater / perforated file. Stanley makes these under there Surform line. The half round is going to be your best choice. You shape when the filler has just firmed up but not hard yet. Never sand filler that has not fully cured because it will clog up the sandpaper and make it useless.
Once the pods are done, I want to prime it. The pillars have a texture to them, so I was thinking of using a high build flexible primer (SEM) to "fill it in" and prime it gray and smooth.
Q: Is there a better way to do this? they are going to be covered in grill cloth.
A: Since you plan to cover the pillar in g/c why bother filling in the texturing, you will not see it.
Once finished, I am going to cover them in GC as a finish.
Q: How does one adhere the GC to the pillar? and do you adhere it on both the front and back, or just the back?
A: If you are using g/c, don't glue the front, otherwise, the glue will show through the g/c. In general, any material that will absord glue should not be glued on the front. Glue it to the back. You can use spray adhesive or CA glue, I personally would use the spray. If you would like to soften the wrap, glue some 1/8" foam to the pillar and than wrap it. Just make sure to use a continuous piece and end the edges of the foam at the edge of the pillar and not short of it (it will look terrible). The foam can be glued down but do not glue the g/c to the foam.
speakermakers 
Copper - Posts: 231
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: March 29, 2010 at 1:08 AM / IP Logged  
As I read this thread I wonder are your factory pillars made of PP or PPE (check the back side for the recycle code). In the event that the pillars are not PC, ABS or some variant that is adhesive friendly you will have a difficult time making a permanent bond with out going through some additional steps.
As of the early 90s PP and PPE are the dominant plastics used in "A" pillar manufacturing.
ianarian 
Copper - Posts: 516
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 24, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: March 29, 2010 at 2:47 AM / IP Logged  
He was saying he drilled holes in the pillar for adhesion. Oh ya, sand down the panel in areas you want the glass has to adhere   Anything rough and preferably pneumatic, making some deep scratches wouldnt hurt.
One major issue I see now and then, is the manner that the panel comes on and off and how it clips in. Some pieces require bending or what not for removal. I stay away from design's that require re-inventing the entire piece. Anymore, every single little aspect of a vehicle's make-up is engineered to be that way. Unless your re-doing everything, always consider what changes your making before adding something. When fabricating a(n) existing panel, foundation, frame and cover. Standard building process.
Before I stretch cloth on anything soft like a pillar, I'll pull the piece off and drill my holes around edges and bends. Then lay plastic behind and around the exposed area. Then pop the panel back in just as normal. A layer or two of some thin manageable poly glass cloth will hold that exact position.   After its stiff, I remove it and go to town with bracing rings or whatever. It's the only way you can totally see how it joins or borders to other pieces.   This way you have a fiberglass base that products like Duraglass stick to. I try to wait until last to cut holes in the actual interior panel. It keeps the natural form in tact the best. If you stretch cloth on bendable plastic and let the resin harden on without the perfect stable position, problems ensue.
This is what I do for FUN!
thunderplains 
Member - Posts: 44
Member spacespace
Joined: August 09, 2009
Location: Connecticut, United States
Posted: March 29, 2010 at 8:45 AM / IP Logged  
Good point.. SO cut the holes in the actual panel LAST.

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Friday, March 29, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer