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turn signal cancels cruise


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saw830 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: January 15, 2006
Location: New Zealand
Posted: April 27, 2010 at 8:16 PM / IP Logged  

Hi all,

Just browsing, but had some thoughts.

Relays can be expensive, noisey, and wear out after a while, but sometimes they are what's needed.

In this case, however, why wouldn't a 1k ohm or larger 1/4 watt resistor wired between the circuit (violet) and ground to simulate a breaklight and the cruise wired normally, at the violet?  They can be had cheap at Radio Shack or someplace.

The only issue that I can think of is that the the high side of the LEDs might not like being pulled to ground when the break pedal is up.  I an't imagine that being true, but one never knows on these new cars.  If they did have a problem with that, then a diode wired forward between the violet and the resister so the LEDs have a harder time "seeing" the resistor drain.  In this case the cruise would connect where the diode and the resistor join.

Anybody tried this?

Alan

sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
Platinum spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: April 28, 2010 at 6:47 PM / IP Logged  
The resistor idea is not new. In fact, back in the old days when Rostra Precision Controls was known as Hayes Dana, they actually had a kit which included a high value resistor for just this purpose. The relay method is better. Quality relays generally are designed to last 100,000 cycles, so I don't think it will wear out. they only cost a few dollars too. The only down side is they make some noise when energized/de-energized, so they should be installed in a way to mask the noise. They can be buried deep in the dash behind sound deadner to quite them.
sparky
pwford 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: April 12, 2010
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: May 03, 2010 at 11:49 AM / IP Logged  
Another way to do the same thing would be to purchase a NC brake swith (the kind with an actuating arm) and let the brake pedal interupt ground every time you pressed the pedal. I used a NO button type swith for the brake lights. I used this method on a '67 Chevy PU that had the cruise in the ECM (6.0 LS1). John Spear at Speartech built me a new wiring harness and spec'ed out the cruise circuit.
Not being familiar with a Rostra unit, as I said, I thought violet was looking for 12V the way it was hooked up. I never it looked all the way through the column, to the rear of the car, through the brake light filament, then to ground.
Crazy idea, to me.
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