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why can't my capacitor keep up?


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oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: May 23, 2011 at 3:11 PM / IP Logged  
A 13-month sleeping thread has awoken...
But imtheman0313, I'm curious why you wrote:
imtheman0313 wrote:
The factory alt was a meager 70A ouput max, (which meant it could handle 50A full time) My current alt is 160A max (probably something like 110A rms)....
Is your 160A a rewound alternator?
And was the OEM or factory alternator just bad, or overrated?   
Thanks...
imtheman0313 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 27, 2010
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: June 05, 2011 at 11:24 PM / IP Logged  
Honda civics OE alternators in the early 90s gen came as 70A max output @ about 2200 engine rpm. Since my stereo alone draws more than that I needed something bigger. Of course, that 70A max meant that you could probably safely run the alternator @ 50A full time without overheating or any other problems. The 2 Alternators that I have right now are just rewound versions of the OE alt. However, the diode bridge and voltage regulators (which the companies did not replace or beef up, they only used the OE honda parts) need to be replaced on both. I am in the process of drawing up a schematic rite now that will remove the bridges and regulators from both housings and control both externally as one single unit. Also, I have a problem with hondas OE charge settings. 14.1 isnt high enuf for my tastes...lol
And the main reason I brought this post back from the dead, is I hate when I find a thread that has all the information I need, but its strewn between different posts. If I can help it, I like to consolidate things as much as possible, for ease of use, if you will.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: June 05, 2011 at 11:37 PM / IP Logged  
Oh dear - rewound OEM alternators. (3-2-1-Bang!)
Dual regulators... o-oh.
Via diodes - well, that might save the alternators.
But if those Hondas are the ND 3-wire alts (or rather - regulators- ie; SIL; else 2-wire SL) you should be fine - at least they measure battery volts.    
But next time you alt(s) blow up, get a single non-rewound alt rated for the job.
imtheman0313 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 27, 2010
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: June 08, 2011 at 12:45 AM / IP Logged  
I haven't put the second one on yet, I'm in the process of creating an external bridge and regulator. The design will turn 2 160A alternators into 1 ~280A (some power will be lost because of age and resistance, of course, so this is just an estimate, considering all factors.) The computer will only see the single field and regulator load (2 regulators on 2 alternators may throw a code i.e. too much resistance on field circuit or some such thing) but I will have the idle amperage and the high output available for later when I actually need 200+ amps.
Currently my system draws ~90A turned up to max, plus ~20A for engine and ~15A for lighting (since the filament bulbs are very inefficient). So all in all, I currently use ~135A MAX, with EVERYTHING turned on and cranked up.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: June 08, 2011 at 4:08 AM / IP Logged  
As per my other reply.
I presume you mean one regulator for each alternator?
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