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hopefully getting a fi btl 18


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def by 20 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: April 22, 2010 at 6:34 PM / IP Logged  

I got someone coming to get my truck so hopefully in a couple days I will have a civic hatchback with tons of room for subs once I take the back seat out.  I'm planning on running my 2 Type R's on the JL 1000/1 and getting a Fi BTL 18.  So to start off what would be a good amp for this.  I'm guessing I'll be pushing close to 5,000 watts.  Also what power improvements will I have to make.  Bigger batt, alternator, and 0 gauge all the way back is where I'm starting but do I need more?  And can someone help me with some box specs.  On Fi's site there isn't even a spec for a sealed box so I guess a ported box is required.  I've never dealt with building a ported box and I don't know what kind of port or size.  I also don't know how to tune the box but I know it has something to do with the port.  I figure I could go ahead and get some info so I'm ready when I get the stuff.  Thanks in advance.

Jensen VM9214 Flip out, JVC 6x9's,Sony 6x9's Pioneer 6x9's, 2 Alpine Type R's in ported box, JL 1000/1 V2 Slash, Sony GTX6040 240 watt amp, Kicker CVR(Black), Alpine 500 (300) watt amp.
ianarian 
Copper - Posts: 516
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 24, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 22, 2010 at 7:40 PM / IP Logged  
It is said that different size woofers, powered by different amps, running at the same frequency, will put the sound out of phase.
This is what I do for FUN!
nodiggie 
Copper - Posts: 69
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 22, 2010 at 11:13 PM / IP Logged  

That's a lot of bass in a little car. I would stick to just the single 18 and push it with an Audioque AQ3500D1. I keep hearing great things about these amps and might just get one.

You can roughly figure 500amps needed to supply those amps. The Big3, 1/0 cables and very HO alternator will be a must. Not sure how big of an alternater you can get fitted in that civic but I would guess you will need some more batteries as well. That's a huge amount of power that is going to take some serious electrical foundation work. Not difficult to do just time consuming and a litle cash, those alternators arn't cheap neither are good agm batteries.

I heard the new 15" RE prototype behind 6000 watts in a civic hatchback a few weeks ago. It hit 146+ and the amp was starving for power. If you can get that much power to a proper enclosed 18 it should be pretty impressive. Good luck to you man.

Still learning
Kraco
def by 20 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: April 23, 2010 at 6:18 AM / IP Logged  
Yeah i've heard of sound cancelation and stuff when running different size subs so I'll either have the 12's just hitting highs or maybe just not use them at all like nodiggie said.  Yeah I know I'll have to put a lot of money and time in my power, what kind of alternator would you recommend?  I've heard of iraggi being the best, and also do you think I'll only need one?  I read up on the Audioque 3500 and it looks good but you think I only need one of those?  I'm hoping to get 150 db.  This car's gonna be slower than my truck with this system in it. Oh well.
Jensen VM9214 Flip out, JVC 6x9's,Sony 6x9's Pioneer 6x9's, 2 Alpine Type R's in ported box, JL 1000/1 V2 Slash, Sony GTX6040 240 watt amp, Kicker CVR(Black), Alpine 500 (300) watt amp.
j.reed 
Copper - Posts: 716
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 05, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: April 23, 2010 at 12:04 PM / IP Logged  
With 5000rms or even close HELL yes, you will need a H/O alt. A dual alt set up woulds be best. I use Iraggi alts my self. Great product and a really good guy.
5000rms you all looking at around 500A of current draw. On top of the electrical demands of the vehicle its self. You will also want 2 runs of 0 gauge just for the sub amp/s alone for 5k rms. O gauge only carries 350A. Depending on mid/high amp/s. You may need another run(this could be 4 gauge or what ever the extra demand for mid/highs).
Lose the 12s. You do NOT want to run different size subs ported. The Fi BTL is only designed to run in ported enclosures. Hints why you see no sealed recommendations.
Run the single 18 in a really well designed and built enclosure. I have a buddy running single 18 out of a trunk of an Accord with 3krms and its doing over 150db on TL. It is even a musical tune and port. In an open Civic hatch it can be more than loud if you design it right, it will be down right painfully loud.
hopefully getting a fi btl 18 - Last Post -- posted image.
def by 20 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: April 23, 2010 at 8:18 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah I want it to be painfull so that it will always be loud enough.  I'm going to try to go ahead and order one this week because cooling is free till May 20 and I need some help on the feaures I should get.  I'm getting it fully loaded but I'm not sure about the dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohm option, daily or spl, or the universal option.  I'm thinking the dual 1 or 2 ohm has something to do with the kind of amp and I'm most likely going with the audioque 3500d.  And also can you only buy Fi's from the website? 
Jensen VM9214 Flip out, JVC 6x9's,Sony 6x9's Pioneer 6x9's, 2 Alpine Type R's in ported box, JL 1000/1 V2 Slash, Sony GTX6040 240 watt amp, Kicker CVR(Black), Alpine 500 (300) watt amp.
j.reed 
Copper - Posts: 716
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 05, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: April 24, 2010 at 3:12 PM / IP Logged  
If your going with the AQ3500d.1 and are intending to power just one of those 18s you will want the dual 2ohm. You are also still going to want 2 runs of 0 gauge with that amp as well.
You do not want the SPL version of that speaker unless you intend to NEVER play music on it. SPL version is for playing one tone and only in that small area of tune.
As for he universal option you may want it. It will allow you to re-cone and switch it from a dual 2ohm to a dual 1ohm with if you decide later on to add a 2nd sub and power it off the same amp.
Yes, Fi can only be bought NEW from the website. You are buying straight from the manufacturer instead of a marked up middle man. You could get lucky and find a good one used. Even if you can get the motor basket cheap enough and do a re-cone.
If your looking at Audioque amps, Which I love for a SPL/Daily beater. You may wanna take a 2nd look at there subs as well. They HDC3 18s with aluminum coils would handle the AQ3500 all day long. They sound better and I have had more luck with them as well.
hopefully getting a fi btl 18 - Last Post -- posted image.
def by 20 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: April 24, 2010 at 8:57 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for clearing that up.  Are there any drawbacks of going universal.  it doesn't cost anything to get it.  The audioques'  rms at 1000 instead of 2500 which is a pretty big difference.  Can these subs both handle more than what they're rated at or what? 

Jensen VM9214 Flip out, JVC 6x9's,Sony 6x9's Pioneer 6x9's, 2 Alpine Type R's in ported box, JL 1000/1 V2 Slash, Sony GTX6040 240 watt amp, Kicker CVR(Black), Alpine 500 (300) watt amp.
lordbass 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: June 17, 2010
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: June 17, 2010 at 2:05 AM / IP Logged  

i have 2 audioque 2200d and 2 fi btl 18s going in a 16qf box tuned to 33hz... my ride is a 99 s10 blazer 2dr. on 22s.....  the fi"s are dual 1ohm i was going to wire the amps down to 0.5 and put around 3000 to each 18 but it my clip or somthing.... so strapping them is what im thinking about . how do u strap them? and how loud do u think it will be... p.s. 5 batt set up alt puts out 220 @ 2000 rpms and i did the big 3 wiring 0g wire

156db

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