ford door locks and alarm

The diode is a protection for the alarm's GWA wire that triggers the relay. I would always use it. Check that blue wire, so if it goes neg pulse when you press the unlock a second time. There is a way of doing this that picks up the motor wires rather than the trigger which will eliminate your problems and give you priority unlock.

Ok, Guys. I gave up on the Camco alarm and sent it back to the supplier. The guy is not too happy as he only is offering 1/2 refund and I had to eat the return shipping as well. I did a complete clean uninstall so there would be no problems with a new alarm system. I purchased a Autopage RS-730. This has most of the options the Camco unit had but was more of a pain to program. IE; Turn the Ignition off/on three times and push and hold the valet butten from 3 to 11 times and then press the correct button on the remote for the item you want to program. With the Camco unit you could program everthing from the remote and watch the parking lights for confirmation. Well the new Autopage is in, programed and is working., but I still have the same problem with the door locks not working after a certain time. The door locks quit working from the remote and the interior door look switches quit working after a period of time. Today a left the relay disconnected that controls the dome light supervision for the alarm. The door locks seemed like they continued to work for over 4 hours. I then isolated the output of the relay that connects to the plus 12v trigger wire with a diode, thinking that maybe a feedback was causing the a relay in the OEM keyless module to hang and that would turn or make the door lock not work from the alarms remote and the interior door switches. I tried the setup all through the day at 3 or 4 hours apart. They were fine until tonight at about 11:00pm. Same thing. Couldn't open the doors with the alarm's remote. If you check and read my previous post with the Camco-RS-750, this Autopage installation is acting the same way. unlock the truck with the OEM key Fob, Remote start the truck, open the doors and start the truck and then shut it down, disconnect the battery for 5 min and then reconnect and start the truck, all put the door lock system back in working order again. If this OEM keyless module "goes to sleep" what the hell wakes it up. The OEM "FOB" Always works every time! Is it the transmission of the signal from the OEM waking the keyless entry waking the module up. I have looked at 5 or 6 different wiring schematics for different alarms. They are all connected the same in the door lock section and connected to the same wires (pink / YELLOW for lock and pink/lt green for unlock. If I leave the dome light supervision wire not connected the door lock system seems to work fine. The vehicle is a 1997 E-150 Mark III conversion van. factory Keyless Entry and no factory alarm. The present Alarm system is a Autopage CS-RS-730. As I said in my prior post the factory keyless entry module has been replaced and at this point pin checks have been made at the module and all are normal with the aftermarket alarm system not connected. If this OEM module needs a jolt to wake it up what wire should I be looking to pulse (-) or (+). I can send a pulse via the control module to the keyless entry module on another channel. You really have to read my previous post on the other alarm system, I was having the same problem with, to fully understand the scope of the problem. Someone must have had this problem on a Ford E-150 with Keyless entry. Thanks     

Leave the domelight supervision unhooked...Has the domelight supervision connection been explained yet...Its late,i havent read the post yet.

M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Tommy, empty your in box.

Sorry Howie...Made some room...M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!