avital 4113 gone wrong

So it turns out that the flashing parking lights has nothing to do with remote start but the car finder feature. If I hold the remote button down for 3seconds, the lights flash 5 times. However, I am still stuck with my origional issue, nothing happens when I try a remote start. Anyone have any other suggestions?

I'm gonna try and see if I can start via grounding the h1/4 wire

If all of your wiring has been verified and it still doesn't start, it's usually 1 of 3 issues.   In the back of the avital manual is gives the shutdown diagnostics.  Plug in the valet switch and press and hold the button.  turn the ignition on then off and release the valet button, then press and release again.   The led will flash a pattern.  There is a listing in the manual to help diagnose what is causing the no remote start condition.   The most common one I see is the hoodpin wire seeing ground.   If you installed your own hoodpin, disconnect the wire from it for testing purposes and try to start it.  If it still won't start, check the Neutral safety wire is seeing ground.  It is the black\white wire in the 5 pin remote start harness.  If it still won't start then check to see if the brown brake wire is seeing constant 12volts or only when the pedal is pressed.  Advanced

Thanks for the suggestions. I've already tried disconnecting the hood pin wire (removed the pin completely from the connector), grounding the neutral safety wire and have confirmed the brake switch wire only has 12v when pedal is depressed.

I finally managed to get the shutdown diagnostics to work. It's been flashing a 7 - neutral safety. But, I've already confirmed that theres a good ground.

I need some help. I just finished wiring up my 2010 subaru outback for remote start with the avital 4113 and an xpresskit tbxkey. The only thing happens when trying to remote start  is the parking lights flash.  Did a quick check for power output, while actuating the remote start, from the "heavy guage relay interface" wiring harness. I've got 12v's going in pins 4 & 6 but nothing coming out 1,2,3 or 5. When trying to use the brain's diagnostics, the LED does nothing. In fact, the LED never lights at all. Also noticed that the output relay I'm actuating using an output from the Salellite wiring harness isn't clicking either. Double checked all my wiring connections and everything seems good. I figure I've either got a crap brain out of the box or I may have mis-wiried something. Any help or insights would be greatly appreciated.

This is how I've got everything wired.....

H1/1,2,5,7 not connected

H1/3 to BLACK/ white key sense wire & violet wire of Xpresskit

H1/4 to BROWN / white power lock wire - so i can is factory key fob to enable remote start

H1/6 to  red horn wire

H1/8 Chassis ground &  black wire of Xpresskit

H1/9 BLACK/ blue parking lights

Heavy gauge wiring relay interface:

1 green IG1 wire

2 WHITE/ blue ST1

3 yellow ACC2

4 & 6 white IGN feed from ignition switch & red wire of xpresskit

5  blue ACC1

H2/1 WHITE/ orange neutral safety switch

H2/2 not connected. was deciding if I wanted to use virtual tach or not

H2/3 BROWN / white brake switch

H2/4 ran own wire for hood pin

H2/5 not connected

Satellite wiring harnes

1 blue wire of Xpesskit

2 & 3 nothing

4 connected to the neg trigger of an outboard relay for ST2

 

 

Tabb-

Just a few thoughts on this...

1.) You have 2 Start leads.   I see the following comment: 4 connected to the neg trigger of an outboard relay for ST2--How do you have this mechanized?  Are you using the relay to connect the 4113 Start lead to ST2, or are you supplying 12V input to the relay to connect to ST2 during start? 

If you using the relay to connect the 4113 Start lead to ST2,  it is OK to use the pink (-) third ignition turn on satellite lead (pin 4 of the satellite harness); if you supplying 12V input to the relay to connect to ST2 during start, you need to use the purple (-) second starter turn on-- I believe this is lead 3 of the 4 pin satellite relay harness.

2.)  H1/4 to BROWN / white power lock wire - so i can is factory key fob to enable remote start--Where is this connected?  Is this how you are initiatiating remote start?  This signal needs a ground pulse to initiate remote start.  The input signal needs to be grounded when your lock is depressed, or a relay is needed to pulse a ground when you lock the vehicle.

3.) H1/3 to BLACK/ white key sense wire & violet wire of Xpresskit--H1/3 should not be used--this is only for use with aftermarket alarms as Blanx218 already noted. 

4.) The only things required for a remote start attempt are:

a.) +12V on the Red fused leads from the 6 pin harness--Pull fuses and check with a DVM that you have constant power on the fuse lead closest to the source. Then make sure your fuses are good and fully inserted. 

b.) Ground on the Black lead of the 9 pin harness.  Make sure that there is no painted surface beneath your ground connection (i.e., metal to metal)

c.) Open (not ground ) on hood pin input (Gray on 5 pin harness).  You can disconnect  this for debug.

d.) Open (not +12V on brake input (Brown on 5 pin harness). You can disconnect  this for debug.

e.) Ground on Neutral Safety input (BLACK/ white on 5 pin harness). Remove the control switch for debug and connect to a good ground.--make sure that there is no painted surface beneath your ground connection (i.e., metal to metal).

f.) Turn engine checking to Virtual tach or off for debug.  If you turn it off, keep the remote handy to turn the remote start off if needed.

Following these steps should allow you to see the unit attempting a remote start.  Once the unit is attempting to start, you can debug the bypass as needed.

Hope this helps.

Lectric Guy

Sucess! Neutral safety wire was open. Bad connecton where the factory crimped the pin inside the connector housing. Took another wire that wasn't getting used and moved it over. Now the unit powers up the dash and starts the engine only if I leave a valid key inthe ignition or next  to the transponder ring. If I allow the TBXKEY to do the bypassing, no cranking takes place and the security light turns on.

I wrapped the TBXKEY ring over top the factory ring but looks like it's not going to work. I've alos moved the ring around various places around the transponder but can't seem to get an good connection. Am I going to have to splice into the factory ring? 

Thanks to everyone for all your suggentions and patience. You've all been a great help! 

This may sound like a stupid question, but the way you worded your last post made me wonder. And I'm not saying this to be rude, but did you put a key inside the TBXKEY? I've never had a problem with the ring not working at all. Sometimes you need to play around with it til you get the best location, but they always work. You shouldnt ever need to get into the transponder wiring on anything but European vehicles

LOL. No offense taken Blanx. I'm beginning to question my own compentency. Yes, there is a key in the box. I've only got 4 wires connected on the TBXKEY. The power, ground, pin 3 violet to the + keysense on the car and pin 4 blue to the blue GWR wire of the 4 pin satellite harness on the remote start. If that's correct, then I'll try playing around with the ring again.

Is there any type of testing I can do to see if the TBXKEY is powering up and sending the transponder info thought the ring? And is placing the TBXKEY ring over the factory ring OK?

when looking at the ignition with the column shroud removed. you'll see the black transponder ring around the end of the ignition. place the ring around the outside edge of the factory ring as close to the key slot of the ignition is possible.

also, do you still have the yellow wire from the remote start connected to the keysense wire in the car? if you do when the remote start is activated 12V will go to the purple wire of the TBXKEY and shut it down and no signel will pass thru the ring