new led tail lights are causing issues

I just purchased a set of LED tail lights for my dodge ram, they are giving me three issues. 1: My viper alarm system is now saying a door is open after I arm the system. May be caused by the below issues. 2. The 3rd brake light, 2 led bulbs stay dimmed but not fully lit after I lock the truck. 3. The truck is getting a code saying high voltages are being drawn from both rear tail circuits. What can I do to fix this issue. Do i need to place some resistors or something lol. My alarm was fine before this issue.

The BCM is monitoring the resistance of the tailights so make sure the aftermarket lights match the reistance of the factory ones otherwise it could throw a codethetopinstaller

mustyk@att.net wrote: ...the aftermarket lights match the resistance of the factory ones otherwise it could throw a code

... which is why it is pointless replacing lamps with LEDs - ie, match your system first (without high-power ballast resistors)! But this sounds more like leaks - why would brake light receive power with IGN off etc, and why would taillights effect car doors?

If you don't have any resistors I would start there. Just keep in mind that they will get REALLY hot and you need to mount them in a place where they won't melt anything or start a fire.Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote: If you don't have any resistors I would start there. Just keep in mind that they will get REALLY hot and you need to mount them in a place where they won't melt anything or start a fire.

What kind of resistors am I looking at getting? You guys need to understand, these tail lamps are MADE for my truck. But they have resistors in them that is different then the factory tail lights. The factory tail lights DONT have resistors in them like these. And the only reason these have resistors is because they are LED tail lights. So If I could get some professional help on what I need to do that would be great.

LEDs usually have series resistors to drop voltage... KP is referring to a BIG resistor or 20W or more that is put in parallel so that it looks like the same load as a LED. I usually recommend that people use a bulb instead of the resistor since that won;t get quite as hot (5% cooler), and they seem to be cheaper and easier to get, and last longer. Do you lights have a heavy resistor? Do they take Amps, or merely milli-Amps (ie, 20-100mA)?

All is fixed now. Thanks

What was the fix?

speakermakers wrote: What was the fix?

I finished wiring up the remote start portion and it seemed to fix that issue.