2010 altima bcm tool

I have searched all over the internet looking for the tool that removes the security bolts that secures the BCM in this vehicle. I know I can probably remove the bolts by dremeling them out but I don't really want to go that route. With remote start season approaching fast, I would like to obtain this tool to save myself some headaches. Does anyone have any tips on removing these bolts or a website that I can purchase this tool or is it a dealer specific tool. Thanks in advance.I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

What kind of bolts are they? I've worked with the BCM on the Altimas but never actually went to the BCM - tagged the wires going down to the kick panel I believe.Kevin Pierson

You can unplug the front two plugs at the BCM (grey and black) easily with it in place.

The rear (green) plug with one of the two pk light wires and the OEM LED wire, you can lay on the floor and reach up to the BCM, unplug that one and bring it forward.

That is much easier than trying to remove those screws.  You can't dremel them out, or drill them.  And if you push on those brackets hard, they bend forward and away from you, making it tougher to work on.      You can make a tool from a long flat blade, notched in the middle.   Works just as well as the elusive factory tool.   But you really dont need to take those screws out if you get one in with the tamplerproofs in ther.  

And they seem to of stopped using those screws.  I dont see them in the new Nissans anymore.

I prefer to remove the cluster and pull all 4 plugs out thru the opening. Much easier and you can just sit and wire it up...Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Along with Mark and Mike, I don't think you need the tool. One of the guys on the idatalink forum mentions this part: http://www.amazon.com/Eazypower-88240-Rounded-Remover-Colors/dp/B0009XTYUA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1260384753&sr=8-2 I've only run into a handful of cars that have hat the security screws. Most seem to have regular screws, even the 2011s. Anyway, if it has the security screws, here's what I do: ---The two plugs at the BCM that are closest to you have negative start, negative ignition, ignition, the two accessories, and the two CAN wires. You can unplug them (with the car off) and then there's plenty of slack to make your connections. ---The plug to the right-rear of the BCM is where they have you go for the security light, brake (if using Fortin CAN-SL-PL), and second data parking light wire (if using ADS). The security light wire you can get going to the cluster. All ADS modules, as well as Fortin's newer EVO-CAN and EVO-ALL provide a brake output. If using an older CAN-SL-PL, just go to brake pedal for brake wire. ---Positive parking lights in fuse box. The ADS install guide shows using a relay to bridge two data wires for the parking lights, but if you do it this way, they time out after ten minutes. Better to use the positive wire. ---I would usually get my constant power at the BCM, but if you can't unscrew the BCM it would be difficult. There are a couple of constant wires at the fuse box, near the parking lights. Everything in this car is low-current (except the positive parking lights), so you don't need to even worry about drawing a lot of power. ---I think the plug at the back of the BCM also has the lock wires, but unless you're doing an alarm/starter combo, there's no reason not to just put a 1-button start-only unit in the car. The customer already carries the Intelligent Key for locks and trunk.

You can get all the plugs off the BCM without removing it. The ones closest to the firewall, lay on the floor and reach up to unplug them. Afterwards you can pull them thru to the cluster opening since this is where they originate. After connections just do the opposite...Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Like we all said,  get the 3 plugs at the BCM and + at the back of the fusebox.

If unhooking the battery, make sure you got the driver seat/back forward some, makes it easier to sit there while hacking the BCM all up  :)

Thanks for all of your help. I'll keep your advice in mind when I see my next push-to-start altima. Thanks again!I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Hey guys, something tells me we won't need to be worrying too much about the BCM tool anymore: https://ifar.ca/en/download/3700/preview.html

I think I just got the equivalent email from Fortin.