raptor 5 farad led fails to illuminate

Since the current demands are quite dynamic, wouldn't it be impedance? Wouldn't the additional capacitive, inductive, and resistive components added in the additional connections be more correctly labeled impedance than resistance? The wire, in and of itself, yes - pure resistance, but the connections aren't purely resistive... No? I am seriously and honestly asking...It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

ok.....the car is barely,,y worth the alternator, and the only best bet is to add a ground to the amp to create less resistance. Lastly, does anyone know if in fact! that an increase of power will be produced by ALSO grounding the amp? Not ridding the car of the cap, and since it was installed professionally, it would be financial genocide to lose the cap. I have a short xmas list for those who have it like that: two jl audio w7's at 12 inch, one Orion 2000 watt HCCA amp, and extra optima yellow top, a high output alternator. That should about cover it for an underemployed student like myself. Btw, a brand new sentra or altima to install the system into.Leonard

Resistance = the opposition of current flow of a DC circuit.

Impedance = the oppositon of current flow of an AC circuit.

And if it were an SMPS, the 12V would be AC superimposed on DC... But no such luck, this is a typical 4x50W HU (with a 10A fuse LOL) - as if a cap or battery or alternator is warranted.... Or did I miss something - other than the humor? (Impedance indeed! That's a variable resistance....)

how much gain on grounding amp will result from adding a simple ground, to have two grounds, one from the cap, and another added from the amp? Now the ground from cap, goes to chassis as it remains now, BUT the ground from amp NOW, goes directly to a post insert on the cap (negative side). There are two pos and two neg. on cap. Whats the trick for grounding amp, and what to do between the cap and amp where the ground is NOW? This will end my debacle.Leonard

Get rid of the cap, IMO that is the only way to end this debacle. Why do you have it? And who would use a cap for a 200W system (or do you have another amp?). The shorter and the fatter the ground(s), the lower the overall resistance. And the more you add (in parallel) the lower the resistance.

I have 1200 watts.v series alpine amp.if you have 400 in pocket...would you throw it away?Leonard

you threw that money away by buying something that wasn't necessary. now you are just aggrivated because this is the first time someone took the time to explain to you that you didnt need it. you should just leave it like it is because no amount of rewiring is going to fix your original problem with the display. you should sell the capacitor the first chance you get that way its not a total loss.

the only other thing you can do is to eliminate the wire that goes from the amp's ground terminal to the ground side of the cap, then make a new ground for the amp that is as short as possible and grounded to a bare metal surface. BUT, even if you do this, you probably wont notice much of a difference at all. the only thing it will do, if done right, is allow the amp to not have to work as hard to pass current and reduce any voltage drops that you may have while running your system at high volume.

the display has been fixed, and matter of fact, the voltage has increased by .5 volts.In addtion, I will add another ground to amp. The lights dimmed on bass beats, but after ADDING CAP, the voltage increases and i get no loss of power. Feedback on this now? this is my christmas present. It was an investment to prevent another alternator failure which was caused by not having a cap, and enough battery. I also have a yellow top optima.So, until i hit the lottery and become employed, my dreams of a 20,000 watt system is out of the question. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 13,000.00 to start.Leonard

Glad the display has been fixed. What was the problem? As to:

bayfisher wrote: I have 1200 watts.v series alpine amp.if you have 400 in pocket...would you throw it away?

I don't throw my money away. And even though I was only aware of the CDA-117 (32W, ~7A), even with a 1.2kW RMS, a cap isn't justified.     Replace your cap with a 12V 1.2AH (or 7AH etc) and compare the result. So that's ~$10 (to $35) that I'd spend; and nothing to throw away. When you get to around a 3kW output you should add caps (but not for dip prevention).