2009 civic, 4113l, door lock problem

tedmond wrote: you should connect unlock to the unlock wire in the car. and disarm to the disarm wire. the disarm wire is a small brown gauge wire.

Yes I did. The unlock wire is connected to the unlock wire of the power doorlock switch while the disarm wire is connected to the unlock wire of the door key cylinder.

offroadzj wrote: That is a last resort, but its always an option; as long as the defrost is functional at all temperatures. Some newer units have a temperature shut down of the defroster circuit. However, according to Directwire, the factory disarm wire should not unlock the doors. Make sure the programming options are not set to unlock before starting.

I believe it's not the 4113L that unlocks my doors but the factory security system itself. When it senses the ground signal on the unlock wire of the door key cylinder, the factory security system sends an unlock signal to the power doorlock switch. Just as I initially posted, our local civics here in the Philippines doesn't have that second press on the transmitter to arm the factory alarm. The factory system locks and arms at the same time and therefore disarms and unlocks the doors at the same time as well.

I also have an issue on programming the Factory Alarm Disarm Option, according to the installation guide, there's only 2 options: 1. with unlock 2. Before unlock, remote start only But when I tried to cycle through the options during programming, I noticed the led blinks once, twice and thrice.. so there's seems to be a third option.. But anyways, I have already tested all three options and still get the same results.

Mark Mizenko wrote: Use the (-)crank output from the 4113 with a diode to your lock wire and it will relock the doors upon crank. ,,,

I'm not sure where to find or which wire is that (-)crank output and what diode to use. I'd appreciate if you can elaborate further. However, there's this 4-pin Satellite Harness that wasn't discussed in the installation guide: 1. Blue (-) status output = I connected this to the PKH34 brown status wire (w2w). 2. Orange (-) Accessory output = not connected to anything 3. Purple (-) Starter output = not connected to anything also 4. Pink (-) Ignition output = not connected to anything as well I understand that I only need a (-)pulse to the lock wire to relock my doors, will I be able to get any from the available wires above?

The (-) crank is the Purple (-) starter output. As far as the programming options, the second option doesn't make sense at all. If it is on remote start only, then it shouldn't also send before unlock. Either way, it won't hurt anything to try each one and see if you find one that works. Just make sure you are definitely in the correct menu and option (confirm light flashes)Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

if you went into the driver door for disarm, make sure you diode isolated the disarm to the unlock wire. i think this is why you have a problemTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

offroadzj wrote: The (-) crank is the Purple (-) starter output. As far as the programming options, the second option doesn't make sense at all. If it is on remote start only, then it shouldn't also send before unlock. Either way, it won't hurt anything to try each one and see if you find one that works. Just make sure you are definitely in the correct menu and option (confirm light flashes)

Went through this option, connected the purple (-) starter output to the lock wire and it works. Thanks for the advice.

tedmond wrote: if you went into the driver door for disarm, make sure you diode isolated the disarm to the unlock wire. i think this is why you have a problem

I'm assuming that you're referring to the door lock actuator itself? I used the unlock wire from the door key cylinder and not on the actuators. One good thing though, When I stop the engine using the 4113L remote, the engine shuts off, rearms the factory alarm and relocks all my doors. I believe most will only experience their factory alarm rearm but doors will not lock after the shutdown. Thanks for all your help guys, I really really appreciate it.

MAKE SURE you have a diode on that purple - crank output wire!   A small isolation diode works fine, and you NEED one on that wire, or the lock wire will feed back into the remote starter. IN004 diode from radioshak?

Mark Mizenko wrote: MAKE SURE you have a diode on that purple - crank output wire!   A small isolation diode works fine, and you NEED one on that wire, or the lock wire will feed back into the remote starter. IN004 diode from radioshak?

It doesn't always do it. I've seen some where it does and others it doesn't. It's a good idea to always throw a diode in there.A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

depending on the brain, some if not most brains have a diode already on the output.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert