1996 chevy k1500 door locks

I have a blue wire and a white wire in the drivers kick that control the door locks.. Wondering if anyone know are these positive or negative pulse door locks?? The alarm sends out negative pulses for the lock and unlock So wondering if I have to reverse the polarity or not??

It is going to be either Type A or Type C, depending on a few factors. These factors are whether the vehicle has Factory Remote Keyless Entry and whether it's a 2 Door or a 4 Door. The general rule for this style GM vehicle is Factory Remote Keyless Entry = Type A. Without Factory Remote Keyless Entry : 2 Door = Type C    4 Door = Type A As always it is best to test the system. I would recommend Directed Tech Tip #1041 document as a guide for plenty of good info on all types of door locking systems. See Page 3 for Type A / Type C testing. Here is a Link : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1213 A Directed 451M door lock module will make the install easier, no matter which type of locks you have. Soldering is fun!

It may be unprofessional but I take a wire fused at 5 or 10 amps and touch it to one of the wires. If my fuse blows then I know I need relays. If the door locks work and the fuse didn't blow then I know it is just simple 12v. Just make sure your jumper wire's 12v source is rated at higher than the fuse you are testing with. Otherwise you will be trying to figure out which fuse in the truck you just blew.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

    Hey, that's my quick test too! Fuse blows = Type C or Locks work = Type A Saves cutting a wire or pulling a door panel, doesn't hurt anything (if you are on the right wire) and the jumpers' fuse is cheap. Soldering is fun!

Kreg I have the exact same setup except i even put an old program button inline to keep my fingers away from potential sparks. Low amperage it wouldn't spark much but I am a bit of a baby. LOL I feel we should clarify for future readers. This method is for a vehicle of a known wiring type and all considerations as to all possible outcomes are being protected against. We are not blindly jumping power to an unknown wire here. Test the wire for 12v before jumping anything to it. You would never use this type of method in a modern car unless again you KNOW every possible outcome and wiring type. /end disclaimer To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Agreed! There are a number of quick-n-dirty tests we do but there is always a certain amount of actual DMM testing that happens first. All comes from experience ( and the University of Hard-Knocks...) and Evil LaughSoldering is fun!