2009 tacoma and python 4206p

Thanks guys, I do appreciate it. Too bad I have to add one relay but that's the breaks. I already have the console taken apart so I can start identifying and attaching wires and I'll start with the steering column first. I've been putting this entire installation off until I knew my daughter would be getting her drivers license, at which time the car I'm giving her will no longer be used by me to go to work. I've got 7 days before she gets her car and I'm in the truck all the time. The weather is good here so I will hopefully be able to wire up the entire system today, but if not well I have time. I will post my results.

I have the hardest part yet to come, the location of the On/Off Safety Switch. I have no idea were I'll put it but the cable that came with the unit is about 12" long, not very long at all. I could extend it if needed but I don't think I want to put it in the glove box. I might make a bracket for it and place it under the drivers side dash but I didn't see any place to put it otherwise. Well I've connected all the wires except the ground (need a terminal lug) and to run the control module flat cable into the windshield. I was going to wait on that one until I have the unit functional first. So it's taken me about 5 hours so far over two afternoons, but I've got to tell you, it takes a long time to locate those wires when you're not sure, and then to remove the wire jacket and solder each wire in. I used no connecters except the ones for the relay and hood pin switch, everything else was soldered. So tomorrow will be the big day when I finish hooking it up and programming the PKALL and then the RS. I'll be glad to button up the dash.

I prefer to wire tie the switch in the fuse box. This way it won't get hit by accident yet you can get to it if needed.Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Okay so now I've got it working, sort of... When I press the Door Unlock, ALL the doors unlock. This is with the setting at factory 1 pulse. No complaint as I'm actually fine with it. But no beep from the truck as in my factory remote. When I press the Door Lock, All the doors lock. But no beep from the truck as in my factory remote. The door locks operate as if I operated the switch from the driver door. One press each. I think the arm/disarm is hosed up. If I fixed that then I'd be content. Here is how I have everything connected right now... 1)     Main Harness H1/1 to H3/5 (+12VDC Constant) H1/2 Frame Ground H1/3 Horn (not needed, expected factory alarm system to honk horn if needed) H1/4 Light Flash Isolation Wire PIN 87a of relay (not used) H1/5 Pin 30 of Light Flash Relay (Green Parking Light Switch wire) H1/6 500ma Grounded when Armed Output (not used) 2)     Remote Start Harness H3/1 + Ignition 1 Input/Output (connected to BLACK/ red at ignition switch pin 5) H3/2 +12VDC Constant Input for Ignition 2 and Flex relays (connected to WHITE/ red at ignition switch pin 5) H3/3 +Accessory Output (connected to WHITE/ green at ignition switch pin 2) H3/4 +Starter Output (connect to GREEN/ black at ignition switch) H3/5 +12VDC Ignition 1 Input (connected to WHITE/ blue at ignition switch pin 4) H3/6 Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output (connect to blue / YELLOW at ignition switch pin 6) H3/7 Flex Relay Input 87a (if req.) of Flex Relay (not used) H3/8 +12VDC Accessory/Starter Input (connect to WHITE/ red at ignition switch pin 5) 3)     Starter 2 Relay Pin 85 to H2/18 Starter Output Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V Constant thru 30A fuse at H3/5 Relay Pin 30 to Tacoma BLACK/ White (+) @ ignition switch pin 3 Relay Pin 87a not used - insulated 4)     Axillary/Shutdown Harness H2/1 Flex Relay Control Output (not used) H2/2 Neutral Safety Input (grounded) H2/3 2nd Status/Rear Defroster (not used) H2/4 Factory Alarm Disarm Output (Drivers Kick Panel GREEN/ black) H2/5 Trunk Release Output (not used) H2/6 (-)Door Input (not used) H2/7 Dome Light Output (not used) H2/8 Empty H2/9 Status Output connected to PKALL "While Running" line H2/10 Ignition 1 Output (not used) H2/11 Aux 3 Output (not used) H2/12 (+)Door Input (not used) H2/13 Aux 1 Output (not used) H2/14 Aux 2 Output (not used) H2/15 Aux 4 Output (not used) H2/16 (+)Brake Shutdown Input (connected to blue wire at dash fuse box plug 1D pin 13) H2/17 Hood Pin Input (installed pin switch) H2/18 Starter Output to Relay pin 85 (see above) H2/19 Factory Horn Input (not used) H2/20 Diesel Wait to Start Input (not used) H2/21 Activation Input (not used) H2/22 Accessory Output (not used) H2/23 Tachometer Input to ODB violet/white pin 9 H2/24 Factory Alarm Arm Output (Drivers Kick Panel purple wire) 5)     Door Unlock to Drivers Kick panel grey wire Door Lock to Driver kick panel blue/white wire I have tested the door lock/unlock lines indicated above and grounding either one produces the expected result. When they are not connected the doors will not lock or unlock via the remote so I had to hook them up. So my concern right now is I do not have the correct Arm/Disarm signals. I followed the diagram for the 2010 Toyota Tacoma truck as indicated in my first posting. Maybe I still got it wrong and found a second pair of wires with the same colors, it is after all a mess of wires down there. The Arm/Disarm, are they part of the same connector that the door lock/unlock signals pass though because I found a thinner pair of wires going through a smaller connector going to the driver door and that is where I located what I thought was the Arm/Disarm lines.

Yea you have the wrond lock wires. You are using the drivers door switch wires and that's not what you want. You ned the drivers key cylinder wires instead.

Door unlock wire to GREEN/ black

Door lock wire to purple

Both in the drivers door harness in the kick panel. You test these wires by turning the key in the drivers door lock.

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Mike M2 wrote: Yea you have the wrond lock wires. You are using the drivers door switch wires and that's not what you want. You ned the drivers key cylinder wires instead. Door unlock wire to GREEN/ black Door lock wire to purple Both in the drivers door harness in the kick panel. You test these wires by turning the key in the drivers door lock.

Oh I know exactly where those are, I looked those up on the wiring diagram for the key lock switch today while I was searching for the arm/disarm wiring (which I never located). I will move the wires tomorrow after work to see how that works and report back, it should give me the single and dual unlock back. But that will not make the beeper notify me that I locked or unlocked the doors and from what little I've found on the internet, the beeping only occurs when the factory remote is used and cannot be used by an add on system. I don't know if that is in fact true or not. I do not have the Horn Honk Output wired up. Should I hook that up to the horn wire or maybe purchase a Piezo buzzer and hook that up to the horn output? Heck, you know I'm gonna hook it up to at least test it. If it sounds fine then I can leave it but I really like the beeper as it's not annoying like a horn. Thanks!

What a pain in the rear to tuck all that away above the fuse box but it's done. I hooked up the horn output and the honk is short and not irritating. This weekend I guess I'll give it the distance to control test. I pulled out all the unused wires from the harness connectors and saved them in the Python box with all the instructions just in case I ever need to add one more thing and I left the Status 2/Defroster wire hanging in the driver side kick panel because that would be the one I think I might use in the future to automatically select A/C or Heat. That's another project for another time. And of course one it's all together I discovered the one last thing I'd like to have is if any of the doors are open, for the alarm to sound when I lock the doors, just like the factory remote does. Please don't tell me that if I had hooked up the Door Open line that would have worked. Of course I haven't seen a line for door open but I'm sure there is one. It would be fairly easy to attach one wire into the Python connectors due to how I oriented it above the fuse box but it would take about 1 hour to do that since I'm slow about tearing apart the lower dash. I'd hate to destroy something. So thank to both of you for you help, it made a huge difference. Also I did disconnect the disarm/arm lines and all is still operating and the unlock/lock I didn't move either. Once I disconnected the disarm/arm the locks operated with one press and that is fine. The horn give positive feedback which helps.