battery disconnect switch in car

Good lord simply use, borrow or find a DMM with a 10amp DC current rating, disconnect the NEG terminal and place he NEG or black lead to the battery terminal, the POS or red lead to the loose lead, after setting up the meter to read 10amps current. Then start disconnecting alternator feed and and removing removing fuses one at a time. Trunk light? Glovebox light? Bet you can't even get a reading for the tracker on the 10amp scale.

x2. This thread should have run its course. Four pages for something that is a typical procedure - test (DMM measure) and eliminate or trace until the problem is found. Incidentally, on the residual magnetism, essentially all electro-mag rotor alternators should exhibit that unless they have aluminium or non-ferric main shafts (not that I know of any for automobiles). It's a question of how much. Hence as I said it's merely a "positive confirmation" test - ie, confirms the existence of a highish rotor current but does not rule out anything else. And since I often magnetise my screwdrivers with sharp knock(s) whilst oriented north-south I question the validity of any (weak) magnetic test. (LOL - those Mythbuster ignorami had to use a battery & wire to magnetise the ferro in their compass! Yep, they were as useful as ever.)