Viper 5706V in 2012 Toyota Tundra

Yes though for electrical reasons I'd transfer back-up battery to H2/9 grey. Otherwise you might have issues with the LCD display.

So everything was working great for a week or so... I was lovin' it. I then installed an aftermarket HU w/backup camera. I'm not sure if disconnecting/connecting the ground to battery so many times (to make connections for install of stereo) messed up the alarm/RS and maybe needs to be reprogrammed or if the stereo install is unrelated but what happens is when I use the key fob to lock/arm the vehicle the siren chirps, pauses, then chirps again and key fob says "door open". when I unlock/disarm vehicle it unlocks and chirps once. sometimes it will say "trunk open" but not consistently. when the system is armed the antenna led flashes 3 times then pauses, flashes 3 times then pauses, and keeps repeating. when I remote start the vehicle it will try to start but never turns over(kind of similar to what was happening prior to programming the tach as Howie suggested) and won't start. if I place key into ignition and turn to on position and then remote start it will start up but sounds like something is not turning off because it makes a strange noise and often turns off after about 15 seconds without me turning key to off position. all of my connections have been soldered and I don't think I could have disrupted anything while installing the stereo. I should also note that I accidentally turned the knob to 4wd while installing the stereo. I was then going through my checklist to make sure everything worked, the stereo, amp/sub, reverse camera, etc then came to the last check... verify the alarm/rs was still working and tried to remote start with the knob still in the 4 wheel drive position. it did not and that's when I first noticed the problems and haven't been able to get it right since. I checked all the fuses and they seem fine. I should also note that the dball2's led will not come on at all (red, orange, green, nothing). I tried to go through process of "module reset" for dball2 but that involves unplugging the d2d 4 pin harness, holding the reset button, and waiting until led comes on which never does. I should also note that when I left viper unit plugged in and only completely removed dball2 bypass I experienced the same symptoms. how can I verify if dball2 is getting powered or possibly fried? thanks for any help in troubleshooting this. I'm getting ready to move down south in 2 weeks, it's going to be hot, and I was really looking foward to this remote start feature!

You will have spiked the DB-ALL. You should have disconnected it before multiple battery removal. Just do a reset and relearn tach, that's what it sounded like when you had the key in the ignition.

Thanks Howie, I really appreciate your help. I am really scratching my head on this one. I tried to do a module reset of dball2 by disconnecting all 4 harnesses (10 pin then 12 pin the 14 pin), held down programming button and while holding connected d2d cable and no lights showed on LED. I tried this several times to no avail. I also tried to relearn tach by following instructions (Start car, press/hold control center button, and waiting), no led on the control center would light up. after trying both of those several times I removed dball2 and connected it to xkloader2 and reflashed through xpresskit site. in configuration options I left unlock driver priority set to driver priority and smart oem alarm control set to enabled. I also left all d2d options checked. I reconnected bypass to car and tried to module reset again with same problem. I got frustrated so I connected bitwriter to viper and zapped it. my understanding from what I've read is that this also unpaired remote key fob. this was confirmed when I reconnected battery and tried to use key fob - viper will not respond to remote at all now. I went through pairing process of going into keyfob menu, entering pairing mode then turning car ignition to on position, pressed/released valet button then pressed/held valet. no led would come on and no chirps from siren as expected. so it appears that the control center was unresponsive to learning tach as well as re-pairing key fob. also, the dball2 was unresponsive to module reset. I have spent hours trying to get this thing going and I just seem to be moving backwards. I couldn't imagine my connections have come loose since they were all soldered but have run out of ideas completely. I checked all fuses coming out of viper harnesses as well as the large fuse I installed in 12v constant wire that all the 12v constants were soldered to. the only way I can get the viper control center to respond to any presses of button is when I start car and then turn off and press the button the blue led from control center will remain lit until I release it then it doesn't light up and won't relight when I press again. also the dball2 is unresponsive to any lights from led except when I was going through process of reflashing while connected to pc and it would have series of flashes and report would say that it was reflashed successfully. do you think based on the symptoms I've reported it's more probable that it's a wire connection issue or programming issue with viper or bypass? I'm really running out of ideas here. what would be the most efficient way to start verifying connections? my thought was to disconnect battery terminals, unplug harnesses from units and use test leads to verify continuity between soldered connections by unpeeling electrical tape, tapping into that end and have other end of leads going to pin inside of harness using a piece of stripped wire as a kind of "plug" that I could insert into hole at appropriate spot on harness. maybe go through this one by one and verify continuity? Howie, I really appreciate all the help you have provided for me. is there any other things I could check prior to removing all of my panels, removing electrical tape around connections and checking each wire? I have the kill switch set to on position. I just don't understand everything was working great and I really haven't messed with any wiring since prior to it stopped working. I couldn't imagine the stereo install affecting this (the only thing that I could think could possibly interfere is the steering wheel control harness that I installed to allow me to use those buttons to control the stereo which is working fantastic). I really appreciate any guidance on this as it is driving me nuts at this point.

I misspoke in reply above regarding my process for resetting dball. I said that I disconnecting all 4 harnesses (10 pin then 12 pin the 14 pin), held down programming button and while holding connected d2d cable and no lights showed on LED. what I meant to say was that I disconnected all 4 harness and then started reconnecting them starting with 10 pin, then 12 pin, then 14in, then held down programming button and then while holding plugged in d2d cable. thanks again.

I wanted to circle around and post my findings. After zapping the viper I believe what happened is it wasn't using the d2d door status monitoring so the viper wasn't able to go into pairing mode to repair my key fob. I grounded that connection as temporary solution which I saw Howie posted as a suggestion for someone else and that allowed me to re pair fob as well as relearn tach as you suggested. The dball2 wasn't getting sufficient power, apparently this is an issue, and I found a fix from a different thread on the forum that recommended to supply 12v constant power to red cable to power bypass which worked great. I reset as Howie suggested and life is good now. I want to thank you again for all the help you provided Howie. I see your posts a lot throughout this forum and it's a really cool thing that you help so many people out with their 12v needs. This is a great community and I will be sure to visit with all my car wiring needs in future.

George 28, I'm retired now but as a diagnosis trained tech I see this appears to be a new recurring problem on the 5706 +DB-ALL2. Why the 5706 and not say a 5204? Either the fault is there across all of the 5XXX brains (they are all the same) or it's because the 5706 is the big seller. Either way, cut the red and black at the 5X end and join to same colours at H1.

Where did you mount everything?