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VW Golf III Immobiliser Bypass


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chassis 
Copper - Posts: 244
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 21, 2014
Location: South Africa
Posted: August 12, 2015 at 12:41 PM / IP Logged  
Good day Gents! I have a someone who owns a Golf III,and this person lost the touch key that you put in the dash before the car can start.I am just wondering if the system can be bypassed as some say it can't and the onwer will now have to change to an open ecu to cut out the immobiliser function.I just want to know if someone here have done it already perhaps before I attempt something I won't be able to finish.It has a VW Alarm/Immobiliser module right behind the glovebox mounted to a bracket with a lot of white wires,all the wires on the harness are white. VW Golf III Immobiliser Bypass - Last Post -- posted image.
Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 12, 2015 at 12:54 PM / IP Logged  
If it's a touch key that's an aftermarket immobiliser*, assuming the vehicle is SA build. Trace back from the touch point. Usually 2 cuts on the ignition loom which terminates in a black plug, then feeds down to the fusebox lower right, drop the knee panel for access.
Starter wire RED / Black.
Ignition, Black just cut and make good.
*RFI chip is inside the key and you wouldn't notice if it were OEM.
chassis 
Copper - Posts: 244
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 21, 2014
Location: South Africa
Posted: August 12, 2015 at 12:59 PM / IP Logged  
Good! Thanks for the tracing technique from touch-key.Why do some aftermarket modules have the manufacture badge on?
Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 12, 2015 at 2:48 PM / IP Logged  
Copy and paste (with permission ).😎
chassis 
Copper - Posts: 244
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 21, 2014
Location: South Africa
Posted: August 12, 2015 at 9:46 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you Howie.
Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.
chassis 
Copper - Posts: 244
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 21, 2014
Location: South Africa
Posted: August 16, 2015 at 12:13 PM / IP Logged  
Hi Howie.I just want to find out something from you.I've sort it out,found the module,this is a carb vehicle so no electronic fuel pump.I have opened the module,found 2 relays on the board. I Have traced pin 87 and 30 to the harness and bridged them.found out it was for the starter and the ignition,so car started.Customer used the vehicle 1 day,but all of a sudden no spark now.What happens is,if I pull the harness out of the module ,even tho the 2 circuits are already bridged the car stalls after plucking it out.how is that possible,only 2 relays on the board,car doesn't start again.Do you think this is something else on the vehicle or can it be something to do with the module itself again.
Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 16, 2015 at 5:40 PM / IP Logged  
Wrong way you should have traced back and identified the two sets of cuts, made good, end of.
And completely removed the module there was no point in keeping it, you only did half a job and wasted your time and credibility opening the module in situ. Plenty of time to "win" the relays afterwards on the bench.
Here's the correct procedure:-
Find module, find cuts, make good, test car, remove module and other wires.
chassis 
Copper - Posts: 244
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 21, 2014
Location: South Africa
Posted: August 17, 2015 at 4:26 AM / IP Logged  
Good morning Sir.Ok I have finally bypassed it with the module disconnected and after waisting my time lol.It appears to be something to do with the distributor.The Coil sends pulse to distributor from the coil lead to distributor. Ignition module sends pulse to distributor pluck ,but no spark at the plucks. I Have send him to go and buy a new Distributor cap and rotor now.
Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 17, 2015 at 7:09 AM / IP Logged  
You actually went at this from the wrong direction!
First look at the symptom then simple diagnosis. BTW Not being clever, this thread started out (my impression) as a how to remove question.
Do the instrument lights come on?
Does the starter turn over?
Then it's not the immobiliser, incidentally no spark at plug, more likely engine management, e.g. cam or crankshaft position sensor if they are fitted.
I had a car that started fine from cold but not from hot, simply changed the camshaft position sensor, cured.
chassis 
Copper - Posts: 244
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 21, 2014
Location: South Africa
Posted: August 17, 2015 at 7:16 AM / IP Logged  
At 1st it was the immobiliser as the instrument lights didn't come on,So I have bypassed it halfway and today completely. Now the instruments lights comes on and it cranks.Ill ask him to change the sensors aswell.
Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

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