01 Ford Escape and in too deep

Hello All - I've got a real head scratcher here and I need some help and advice. I have a 01 Escape v6 with power door locks, power seats. I had a remote starter/alarm from Compustar cm 6000 with bypass module idatalink AL CA multi series. The unit worked well for a few years. The unit replaced an old python unit that was in the vehicle prior to me owning in. This weekend, I upgraded the remote to a compustar cm 7000. I took my time to run wires in a better way and changed the location of the remote starter. Half way through the install, I noticed the loss of my dome lights, power seats, and door locks. I hadn't wired them to the new alarm yet, nor did I have the new alarm plugged in. Again, I was redoing some wiring and had very limited access to existing wires (I took wires the main wires from my old harness and inserted them in the new harness, noting was plugged into the unit). I checked all fuses in both the kick panel and under the hood and they are all good. I can hear a faint clicking sound from the gen module when I trigger the door locks, but it seems nothing happens. The fuse box ins't registering power to the "room" fuse and doesn't seem to register any power. I went to the auto wreckers and tried another gem module and it functioned the same way. I noticed when I start the car, the speedometer and tach goes to the max speed and rpm limits as it does when the battery was disconnected. When starting this project, I didn't have the battery disconnected. Has anyone encountered this before? Does anyone have any advice they could lend? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Replace with original GEM, check inputs from battery (underhood fuseboxes), disconnect battery for 20 minutes, reconnect.

Replaced GEM module with the original, disconnected the battery for 20 minutes, reconnected and problem still arises. I decided to work on this when I come back from work, only to discover the gear shifter is won't shift out of park. The gear shifter registers park on the dash display, but is "locked" in place. The vehicle starts and runs fine.

I am voting for a blown larger case fuse or fusible link.

Bottom line we can only guess, Euro Fords don't have a link in this way before the GEM, actually now combined with the fusebox and called a CEM Central Electrics Module). Mr, I might be correct, I know Japanese do this, look for either fusible links adjacent the battery or is there an engine bay fusebox? If so look there.

I too thought it was a larger fuse. There are a couple of square fuses (30 amp) and thought it may be one of them. I pulled them out and confirmed I'm getting continuity on both fuses. I have a hunch it may be some type of short. I don't think the fuse that connects the door locks are receiving power. I used my multimeter and there doesn't seem to be current present when the car is idle and running. Now if only I had a flea's fingers and a shoe horn, I may be able to start checking the main wire harness for continuity. Does anyone know where I may obtain a schematic?

If you had a short you would be blowing fuses possibly an open circuit. Battery, fused, to GEM input? Mr I and myself have around 70 years of combined auto electrical experience start at the battery and work forward modern vehicle circuit diagrams resemble nothing more than a large city street map, just follow the colours.

Do some research and see if other people are having problems with the same circuits as you. Possibly a bad connection on a bus bar inside the fuse box. Try and power one of the fuses that do not have power and see if all of the circuits that are dead begin to work.

That's what we've both suggested. Run a temporary fused lead from the battery to the "dead" circuit, if same as the UK, I'm guessing ORANGE / white at the GEM, see if things work, that's your problem.