Compustar install + AdvanceKeys Push button star

Hello everyone, I was hoping to get a second set of eyes on what I have laid out so far. I got some help from another member so far through PM, however I felt it would probably be a good idea for everyone else to take a look if you wouldn't mind. Hopefully someone has experience setting up something similar or is familiar with both systems. Im working with a 2000 Lexus Es300 (automatic, four door sedan) I have a Compustar FT-7000AS MAX IT kit with CM-7000 brain (Have not purchased one of their remote kits yet, havent decided on which one) and a idatalink blade-al thats already been flashed. I will also be installing a AdvanceKeys AK-PSB06 stand alone push button start kit. Here are some drop box links for the installation manuals of both units and the Excel file I downloaded from here and filled out. Excel file https://www.dropbox.com/s/1wloa23y7gneu71/Lexus.xlsx?dl=0 Advancekeys https://www.dropbox.com/s/7vz6hdl008qjggg/AK-PSB06.pdf?dl=0 Compustar https://www.dropbox.com/s/jqp83uc76ow5e7c/CM7000_Full_Install_2.12_EN.pdf?dl=0 For the excel file I would like input on the CN5 Gray connector for pins#9 and pin#11. Then CN1 high current harness pin#2 Aslo the following for the AK-PSB06 Accessory harness, the purple and orange wire

So here is what I've come up with: First, I'm assuming you own a way to flash idatalink bypass modules (and therefore Compustar controllers; either a standard weblink USB cable or weblink mobile). If not, most of what I'm about to suggest is going to be difficult for you (standard USB weblink is only ~$35). Second, the options I reference below correspond to the most recent publication of the CM7000 install guide (found here https://techfeed.compustar.com/ft_controllers/manuals/CM7000_Full_Install_3.00_EN.pdf). You should update your CM7000 before changing any options. Finally, I cannot guarantee this solution to be complete. Ideally, for the most seamless integration with the PTS button, a ground-while-disarmed (GWDA) negative output is required to be used on the PTS button's enable input. Because this output does not exist (at least on Compustar controllers), a workaround is necessary. The two possible workarounds that I can see are either a) Inverting the ground-while-armed (GWA) negative output with a relay or b) the solution detailed at the end of the "Fixes" section below. The problem with inverting the output with a relay is that when the car is armed (the majority of the time) the relay will be on and draw between 100 and 150ma which will drain your battery over time. Now, with that out of the way... Changes

• The Blade-AL itself does not require a connection to keysense (at least not according to the idatalink application guide I'm looking at). The connection from GWR to keysense detailed in the application guide is provided by the remote start controller as part of the car's start sequence. Essentially, the car (probably) will not start unless it sees (-) on the keysense wire before any circuits (ACC/IGN/START) are powered up. The transponder bypass (Blade), on the other hand, could not care less if a real key is in the ignition.
• The connection to the vehicle's horn is a bit redundant (unless you prefer the sound of the horn over a siren chirp). Siren chirps are adjustable on Compustar controllers (short/quiet, medium, long/loud) and, in my opinion, sound better than the horn.
• CN5 Pins 9 (ORANGE / white) & 11 (orange) (arm and disarm outputs) aren't necessary unless the vehicle has arm/disarm inputs separate from the lock/unlock wires. On some vehicles with auto lights or retained accessory power, you could set the arm output to pulse after remote start shutdown to kill the lights/RAP.
• Only one of the parking light outputs is necessary (CN5 GREEN / WHITE and CN1 GREEN / WHITE). I prefer using the (-) output in CN5 when possible as the high current (+) output in CN1 is jumper-selectable to either a second start output or a positive trunk pop output.

Fixes

1. You probably need an ADS-TB instead of a Blade module as the Blade modules do not have an externally accessible GWR input. This means that only the remote start module can ask for transponder bypass functionality, not the PTS button. (The rest of my solution here depends on the use of an ADS-TB)
2. Connect the grey wire in the PTS button accessory harness to the GWR input on the ADS-TB (you shouldn't need the orange wire in the PTS accessory harness). This will trigger the bypass to provide ignition bypass functionality before the PTS button powers up the ignition circuits.
3. On the PTS button, set jumper 2 (JP2) to ground enable (since you aren't planning on using one of their smartkey systems).
4. This is the part where you need a ground-while-disarmed output. Here is the solution that I think has the best chance of success:

--------------> 1. Set POC #5 (CN5 ORANGE / white) to Aux 1 Out [10] --------------> 2. Set Aux 1 Output to latch (Option 4-01, setting II) --------------> 3. Set Aux 1 Output Control to disarm (Option 4-03, setting III). This would provide a latched (-) output on CN5 ORANGE / white whenever the alarm switched from an armed to disarmed state (locked then press unlock on your remote). I’m not sure the latch will cancel when the alarm rearms though, which is critical to your car being secure when locked. The manual says only a second Aux 1 command will cancel the latch, however I cannot see a way to set Aux 1 to behave in this very specific way (latched after transition from armed->disarmed but pulsed once upon arm). I do suppose a properly implemented starter kill relay would be similarly secure, although the PTS button might not be too happy if it runs through the start sequence (ACC+IGN -> IGN+START -> ACC+IGN) and doesn't see the engine running (via the tach signal). Then again, the happiness of the PTS button is largely irrelevant so long as your car cannot be stolen.

That’s unfortunate to hear that you recommend the ADS-TB over the blade. Honestly it was one of the main reasons I went with the Compustar unit. I like that there was just a small cartridge that slides into the brain than to wire up yet another separate unit into the mix. This being my first alarm install and then making it difficult on myself with trying to toss in a PTS button into the mix, I will look into the ADS-TB. Unfortunately I do not have the cable for flashing the bypass module. I had the blade flashed by the seller. No big deal.. If I have to buy the cable then I will.

Another way to get armed when disarmed would be to use a relay such as an Omron twin coil latching relay:- G6CK-2114P-US12DC; Mouser or Farnell, run off the lock/unlock wires, no battery drain problem is if the Comp is giving you auto lock you'll need another small interlock relay to open circuit the lock wire on ignition I can draw you a diagram.

Cool features like an aftermarket PTS button and a super neat install are not mutually exclusive, but it is difficult to get both. In your case, the sole reason the Blade will not suffice is the PTS button and it's requirements.

Update, got everything installed and wired up except a few issues I need to complete once the weather here clears up. My door lock/unlock and trunk pop is all working from the alarm but having issues with the remote start which I believe to be a Tach signal issue. I tried tapping into a tach wire that leads from the computer to the AC/Heater controls.. I tried to cheat having to run a wire from under the hood, but failed.. I will have to actually run a wire from inside to under the hood and to a coil or injector I suppose now. My remote start problem aligns with my PTS button problems.. I got the bypass installed for the PTS module and everything powers up for that. However I cant get pass the Tach learning programming because it also needs a new tach wire ran under the hood. My alarm has a Negative parking light lead which is not jumper selectable to change polarity. And the cars parking light lead is a positive so I will need to wire a relay for that. I also wanted to use the factory door lock/unlock buzzer that sounds off with the use of the factory remote instead of the alarms horn chirping/beeping. Still have to figure this one out as well.