Viper 4806v w/DBALL2 programming fault

Thank you for the reply Smokeman1. The Viper is new not a reburb unit. The alternate wire connections come from Directech site when I flashed the DBALL2. They have an installation document with pictures that does differ from their Type 2 wire chart. The functions that they have differ are the parking light connection, the door lock/unlock which is run to the alarm arm/disarm wires, and the keysense wire. All of those functions are working correctly at their wired locations. The Blue wire is on the ignition connection plug. There are two 12v 7.5a wires are the plug. The blue wire and the white wire. The blue wire is the one used in the previous installation. It was working for it and I didn't want to strip another of those small wires. All of my wires are soldiered. I couldn't get the small red or large yellow T-Taps in time for when I started the project. If I would have known I was going to get stuck like this I would have taken the extra time to wait on shipping. I could only find the blue ones locally. You are correct on the light flash connection. That is an oversight on my part that I will correct. Below is a link to the wiring guide from Directech. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43581779/Directechs_com%20-%20DirectWire%20-%20Print%20Vehicle.mht

Here is some additional information to consider that I mentioned in another forum TundraTalk but haven't here. I purchased my Tundra used and it already had an aftermarket remote start installed that was an Orbit model using a iDatalink ALCA bypass. That system ended up failing. I tried to have the bypass re-flashed at a local Audio/Security installer and they flashed the wrong firmware to it completely borking it up. So I purchased the Viper 4806v and DBALL2 combo at WorstBuy. I couldn't have them install it because my truck no longer starts with the key. The XKloader 2 that I purchased for the DBALL2 wasn't able to see the iDatalink to try and re-flash it myself. Now when the iDatalink was installed they had the imo/imi wires run to the TPMS ECU. For awhile when the system was working that seemed to work. The wiring chart for the DBALL2 didn't call for that connection so I've re-soldiered TPMS wire and applied a shrink tube.

You need to correct the issue of your truck not starting normally first, before trying to install a remote starter. Is the starter wire, (green), cut? Use a DMM to test ALL of your ignition wires for voltage and function.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Smokeman1, Thank you for the help on this issue. A week and a half wasted freezing my arse off, completely removing the system, re-flashing my transponder ecu, and it all was over a stupid 7.5 amp fuse in the engine fuse box that was blown. Everything is put back together and my truck is functional again. Remote start still isn't working but I'm getting ready to research that. I'm getting 8 light flashing indicating the neutral safety switch isn't one but it is and connected. So as soon as I track that down I'll be done. Again thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I ended up figuring it out because after I re-flashed my transponder ecu for the second time. I noticed that even though I had the ignition on and things were working the transponder was showing the ignition switch as off. This led me to checking the wires again and they were good so I got to thinking about checking all of my fuses. Swapped it out and Bob's your uncle. I'm so mad at myself. I was thinking too complex.

Pin 13, BLACK/ white, (-) neutral safety. If tundra is auto transmission, ground this wire to chassis ground.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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