the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

2016 Impreza, Fortin EVO-ONE


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
4327814 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: November 25, 2017 at 1:42 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 4327814
Well, I went out there and took a look and the (-) unlock door on the evo is definitely not doing anything. So, in conclusion, I have a feeling that it's either disabled in the firmware or something is broke.
My guess is disabled in the firmware because on my Subaru Install Sheet from Fortin, it just shows is grayed out and nothing about an unlock or lock wire. I think my only hope now is for somebody with a 2016 (or maybe 2017) Impreza having the same door lock issues as I am and complaining about it.
Thank you again for all of your help.
4327814 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 01, 2017 at 6:03 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 4327814
Hi! I posted here a couple of times within the past week or two and so far people have been extremely helpful. I'm still trying to get my Fortin Evo-One fully working with my Impreza (standard key) install.
What's going on now is that I was able to get the lock and unlock to work while the vehicle is remote started through the use of the analog lock and unlock wires. I tied into the (-) wireset by the kick panel and connected them up to the evo. Now that it's working though, whenever I unlock with the aftermarket keyfob and open the door, the horn starts honking. This is just a guess, but I'm guessing the evo isn't disabling the factory alarm and the factory alarm is going off whenever I open the door while the car is remote started.
With all of this, I'm wondering if this vehicle just can't be locked and unlocked while remote started. Or, the bigger thing, is I wonder if I didn't properly write it up to something. I'm not sure what the something is though....but I soldered and double checked all my connections when I was making them.
Thanks in advanced again for any help.
4327814 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 02, 2017 at 11:04 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 4327814
OK, I think I made some major progress!!!! What I ended up doing, if anybody else is interested, is wired up the (-) lock and unlock wires into the car at the kick panel. This was working ok, but I also ended up enabling 38.4 in the firmware and that is finally working good.
I've had tons of issues that I've resolved one way or another with this thing. I think it's finally working good, except for the parking light output, which I have a feeling the relay in the evo may be stuck. If anybody has questions about it getting it to work on an Impreza, feel free to contact me!!!
4327814 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 05, 2017 at 7:00 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 4327814
I have a 2016 Subaru Impreza standard key ignition. I used the T-Harness to wire everything up but the install guide shows to connect the Yellow (+)Ignition/Bypass Ignition that is pin A1 to the pink wire on the T-Harness. It looks like it should have a wire sticking out but mine didn't so I just tapped the pink wire.
On the not the t-harness install, it basically goes A1/Ignition(+) to tap the Pink Ignition (+) on the ignition relay harness and then taps the (+)Ignition1 on the car.
I was wondering if anybody knew what the power requirement should be for the A1 Ignition, which other generic installation instructions calls this pin the "Bypass Ignition". I'm pretty sure mine is +12v constant and something makes me think that it should only be +12v when the key is in the ignition and turned to run or crank.
Thanks!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 05, 2017 at 4:21 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
I have never used a THAR SUB-1 harness. I'm not even sure that it is supposed to have a Pink wire
coming out of the E Plug end. Does it have a Black Chassis Ground wire as shown in the diagram?
Not positive of the actual wire colors inside of the SUB-1 harness, but I would ensure that the thin
Pink wire from A1 gets connected to the thick wire inside of the harness that goes to Pin E5. E5
being the IGN1 In/Out wire position in that plug. Of course I would also verify that at the other end
of the SUB-1 harness, the wire in Pin 5 goes to the cars Green wire at Pin 1 at the main ignition switch
connector. Also a DMM check to verify that that wire acts like an Igniton wire and not constant +12V.
Soldering is fun!
4327814 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 06, 2017 at 7:18 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 4327814
Thanks for the information. I ended up testing it last night and it's wired up as the diagram says...well, I didn't pull the ignition plug side of the harness out, but just tested at the EVO-One. So, I think that my wires are correct to this point.
This is a huge mystery to me because the company says I have miswired something, but so far, I haven't been able to find anything miswired.
4327814 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 06, 2017 at 8:49 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 4327814
I'm going to start back to the drawing board on my install and start testing the connections for shorts and proper wiring. For testing the output, I've learned to use a DMM and touch the positive to the battery and test the negative output to see if it reads 12 volts. I also wanted to verify two other things; testing for shorts and AC.
For shorts, do you set the DMM to Ohms, connect one lead to the negative output and the other touch to ground? Can you do this on the 12v input wire too, but instead of touching ground, you would touch the 12v power source (battery)? Should you disconnect the battery before doing this?
For testing AC connections, such as the immobilizer (IMO), Door Lock DATA wires, and can high/low, do you just connect a probe to each side and check voltage? Does the car have to be running? Can you check continuity to look for shorts on the AC data wires this way too?
If needed, this is specifically for a 2016 Subaru Impreza.
Thanks in advanced.
Page of 3

If you wish to post a reply to this topic, you must first login.
If you are not already registered, you must first register.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Friday, March 29, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer