09 Subaru Legacy Compustar remote start/alarm

I've done a couple of my own installs on my vehicles and been happy with my current cm4300/2W9000FM install in my 94 Subaru Legacy. I've just purchased a 2009 Subaru Legacy Automatic and would like the same functionality, and possibly a bit more. I could remove the install from the 94 and move it over to the 09. But looking at some of the installation instructions for the newest Compustar systems I see that I can simplify the wiring of the installation by using a module. I'll also need a bypass module due to the transporter in the key. Both of my previous installs were into older cars without canbus and transponder keys so this aspect I haven't done before. So I have a few questions. First, I don't see the need to have the latest and greatest. Both units I'm using now were purchased used and weren't the current model at the time. Still pleasd with them. So I wouldn't mind using an older brain and remotes. I'll use my current brain and remotes if they are compatible. I'm not against getting a newer brain/remotes if they provide some more functionally that previous versions don't have. I can't seem to find much info on which brains work with which remotes. Or features of the remotes and brains for different models for the Compustar brand. Any insight into where I can find that kind of information? Second, is it possible to complete this install without a shop doing programing? From what I gather I need a blade from idata and it needs to be configured and programed for what I want and for the vehicle. I capable of flashing the firmware but don't have any tools to do so if it requires special cables. So in summary, I want a Compustar (though I am willing to hear suggestions) and I want to install it myself and would like to know what I need and understand what's compatible/available to use for my installation. Thanks

This is going to be long. Quick answers: Control module: Don't bother with used control modules; even if they work perfectly, you're probably going to need wires that weren't necessary in the controller's previous installation which means soldering extensions on to the harness that the original installer likely cut. Used isn't worth the hassle and new-old-stock controllers seem to sell for about the same as their current counterparts anyways. Remote compatibility: The main factor that determines Compustar remote compatibility is the antenna used. I've got a (now slightly dated) compatibility matrix I grabbed off an ebay listing a while back, I'll upload it below. Essentially, the only remotes you've got to watch out for are those that use the ANT-1WSS-25 and ANT-SS-25 antennas which use 6-to-6 pin cables (6-pin controller plug, 6-pin antenna plug). Because of the cable, these antennas require a controller with a 6-pin antenna port (newer controllers only ie. CM7000/CM7200, *not* LT series such as CM600/CM800/CM900). Some remotes that use these antennas are the 901 and T10 LCD 1-Mile remotes. Side note, Compustar's newer DSS antennas/remotes (3-mile T11, 2-mile Pro R3, 2-mile Pro G15) have 4-to-6 pin antenna cables and are compatible with newer 4-pin only controllers (LT series, DC series). Install w/o shop assistance? No quick answer for this one. Yes, but no. Longer answer: Integration module: An ADS-ALCA or Blade-AL will make an install in your car much easier by handling the following

• Door lock/unlock
• Trunk release
• Arm/disarm OEM alarm
• Door status
• Trunk status
• Tach signal

-HOWEVER- You will need an ADS-USB cable and a Weblink account to program the module. Cable is ~$35, account is free ("dealer only", but you can sign up for one anyways). -ALSO HOWEVER- With most cars, an integration module like a Blade-AL handles integration functionality (such that listed above) as well as ignition transponder bypass. In the case of your car (and many Subaru's, I believe), an additional ALCA/Blade is required just to handle ignition bypass. Unless you want to lose a key to the wrap method, this is the only option. To make things worse, programming the ignition-bypass Blade to your car requires an intermediate step where you remove the module from your car and connect it to your computer with the ADS-USB cable to complete programming (iDatalink calls this "KLON"). This makes options like having an eBay seller flash your module for you useless, as you'd then have to send the module back to them mid-install (and wait a week or more) before getting it back to complete the install. SO, Two ALCA's (or one ALCA and a Blade AL), a CM7200 and an ADS-USB cable will probably cost around $165 (current reasonable pricing if you keep an eye on eBay). Add to that the cost of whatever remote kit you want (pretty much any remotes are compatible with the 7200). Alternatively, Compustar has a product called the DC3 which is kind of like a CM7000 with an integration module built in (still requires an ADS-USB cable). A DC3 will handle everything in a single module (acts as the controller and both integration modules), though the cheapest price for it on eBay is currently $140 which would put your total before remotes at $175. Up to you to decide if a cleaner install is worth the $10. To summarize: If you want to do this install yourself (and don't want to hardwire door locks, arm/disarm, trunk release, etc. as well as lose a key), you need an ADS-USB cable and a Weblink account. With those, it looks like a fairly straightforward (albeit, slightly expensive) install. Of course, if someone with more experience finds something I've missed or gotten wrong here, feel free to correct me! That compatibility matrix I mentioned:

Thanks so much for the response loganemakf. I have to commend you on one of the most thorough, well formatted and helpful responses I have even received on a forum. I saw this right after you posted it but I've read it many times to try and digest all the info. I do have some questions now though. So you know what I'm working with, I have the following: Antennas FM-2W-433 ANT-2w900fm Brains CM4300 (This one won't be getting removed from the car is installed in, its in my 2nd car) CM3000 (Car that is not going to be used again) Remotes 2W9000FMR-907 2W9000FMR-433 I expect to get a new brain but if I can reuse a pair of my remotes and antenna I would prefer that. As you can tell I have a mashup but the 900mhz antenna pairs with the 900mhz remote and the 433mhz antenna pairs with the 433mhz. Just worked out the way I acquired parts. So as far as what parts/brain I need. First I much prefer a cleaner install and as long as the cost isn't significantly higher I'll go then I'll go with whichever will provide that. So if I was to do that I want a DC3? You mention its like a CM7000. Whats the difference between a CM7000 and a CM7200? Furthermore whats the difference CM7000/7200 vs the LT series? Just to clarify I do want alarm and starter and don't want to loose a key.

Hey, glad I can help! I’d much rather write a long, generalized post that might help someone else down the road than a super specific “connect red to blue, green/white to brown...” post. I’m not too familiar with the older stuff but it looks like the 2w900fm antenna (and corresponding remote) should work with pretty much any of the new controllers (based on it’s compatibility with the LT series). As for the controllers: 7200 - Remote start control module 7000 - Remote start + alarm control module LT series - Compustar’s basic line; solid controllers but automatic transmission only and less options than the full-fledged 7-series. As for the DC3 being similar to the 7000: it is, in that it has many of the same features. However, the DC3 doesn’t include a siren, LED, starter kill relay or DAS (shock/movement/tilt sensor). It has connectors to support those things, just doesn’t include them in the box. I’ve personally never used a DC3 as they’ve been too pricey for any of the cars I’ve done. So then, if you’re looking to go with a full remote start and alarm, a 7000 with a Blade AL and an ALCA might be your better option. It’ll be slightly less clean but about the same cost as a DC3 once you factor in the extras (probably around $170, but you get a siren and a DAS already included and guaranteed compatibility with all but the oldest remotes). Plus the weblink cable, around $200 all-in for that option.

Well its installed. I'll elaborate on that later. I'm having an issue with the DC3 working with my remote and antenna. Using an ant-2w-900FM antenna and a 2W900FM remote. It looks like the alarm install went fine. I can arm/disarm and start via the factory key fob. I don't have any issue getting into programming mode. But when I push the lock button to program the remote to the DC3, nothing happens/I don't get the confirmation flash. The DC3 then just ends programming mode with the 2 flashes. I'm going to meter the wire tomorrow to see if anything might have happened to it. EDIT: The wire is fine. I also tried a FM-2W-433 with the compatible remote (forget model number off hand) Same issue, doesn't program.

Well according to the response I got from firsttech: "Those are very old units and will not work with the DC3 as the technology is very new. You will have to upgrade your remote controllers." My remote/antenna won't work. I'm pretty wizzed about that. I guess I should have done more research. More annoyingly I don't see any reason they shouldn't work. They are of the same generation as the 9000 that is listed on the idatalink website as compatible. It really bugs me when companies just make "old tech" obsolete. Now I'm not sure what to do. I really don't want to buy new remotes. Already into it for $270 which is actually not too bad but adding about $300 for the remote is a bit much. Especially since I have perfectly working remotes. I might go with "my start" which is like drone but no fee and cheaper. Seems to be reasonable service for the cost. That will give me remote starting. Yes I can remote start right now via the factory FOB but it only works at about 30ft away with no confirmation. I think there might be one issue that might drive me nuts. Sounds like if you remote start the car with either drone/comupstar remote/my start that the factory key fob can't unlock the doors. I only want to use the app to start the car. All other functions I want to use the OEM FOB. In the scenario at least. Seems like I could solve that problem possibly with the use of an ez go. Of course if I did get a compustar remote I would ditch the OEM FOB.