Viper vs Compustar DIY

Hi all, I've installed a few DEI remote start/security systems in the past for friends and family. All of which are still working great, no it's time to install one in my own vehicle. Any input on Viper vs Compustar for a diy? I like DEI because I can change settings with or without the bitwriter, is Compustar the same, do I need a account to activate a Compustar? How diy friendly are they and is it worth switching over after having good luck with DEI?

Interesting question, sure to bring diverse answers. For the most part, it will come down to installer preference. It's what your are familiar with, comfortable with and what fits your needs. Any major brand is reliable if we limit the discussion to the actual R/S unit. I have used Ultra Start, Avital, Viper, Prestige and even a few Bulldog units over the years. All work well when matched to the vehicles needs and installed properly. As for vehicles needs, some installs need extra ignition outputs, defroster control, total closure, etc. Some brands / models are more suited for certain vehicles. As for Compustar programming vs Viper programming both have a handheld programmer ( BitWriter / OP-500 ) that makes life easier. Both manufactures have special functions that can only be modified with that special programmer. Some Compustar units can be programmed with a special cable and a PC signed in to Compustar. This is usually done during bypass module Flash. Makes bench prep fast and easy. Of course this brings us to what I consider the most important area of a R/S install, the bypass module. The bypass module is doing more and more with the newer CAN bus systems, making them essential and a critical part of any R/S install. They save time, reduce under dash wiring and provide many bonus functions ( heated seats, rear defog, etc ). I'll keep this part of the discussion to a comparison of a Viper 4706 with a DB3 bypass module and a Compustar CS4900-s with an iDatalink ADS AL-CA bypass module. Yes, Viper has newer all-in-one modules just like Compustar and iDAtalink. And yes, there are R/S standalone/only setups with and without remotes but I'm guessing your question has to do with the more typical install. I can't say much about DB3's because I've never used one. I have read a bunch of posts about them but false info abounds on the internet. I use iDatalink bypass module and sometimes Fortin units. They are extremely solid units with excellent firmware. But for the DIYer, Directed's recent purge and restrictive access policy has pretty much locked out DIYers, hence your question and need to switch. While you can buy a XKLoader, you can use it unless to have dealer authorized access.   A lot of the newer vehicle installs use a Key2GO ( KLON ) process on the bypass module that requires a 2 step flash process. Getting a DB3 bypass module flashed by the online seller for a new Honda still requires a second connection and flash for Key2GO. Most people I know that have switched to Compustar and iDatalink have no regrets and most never looked back. I'll admit I'm biased so hopefully we will get some input from some DEI users that will highlight their brands strengths. Soldering is fun!

Great answer, I appreciate the input, I will look into Compustar more in detail.

What car is it for, sometimes certain cars work far better with certain brands/brainsdouble-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

It's for my 1998 Chevy Truck, I realize my truck is by no means up to speed with electronics in cars today. Would that be a deciding factor too? Is Compustar better for newer cars with lots.of electronics?

For that truck, I'd go with your preferred brand. It is "old school" and will work well with most DEI products that your are familiar with. You will need a bypass module and the DEI XPressKit PLJX at $22 would be a decent choice. Not sure if you are looking for a R/S with alarm system or just a R/S w/keyless entry. If it's just a R/S w/keyless and you wanted to try a Compustar system, check out the CS4900-s unit. It has 3,000 foot range, one 2-way remote and one one-way remote. You will also need a Directed 451M door lock module if you have factory power door locks.Soldering is fun!

I'm looking for r/s, alarm and keyless entry. Was hoping to get 1 mile range as well.

5 Stars for that post, Kreg. Good stuff to bring an old-school DIY'r up to date on bypasses, DEI's status on support and flashing, etc. Thanks. To the OP: I'd go with DEI for your 98. It's what you're familiar with, and there shouldn't be any surprises. And there are several DEI regulars on here that can assist you if you do have an issue. And my last comment: Does anyone really remote start their vehicle from a mile away? I don't start any of mine unless I can see and hear it when I push the button. Seems safer to me, and if it doesn't start normally, I may have a clue as to why from having heard what it did. (This part may be the mechanic in me. Hard to know what is wrong, if you don't know what it did.) For me, I use the Pit Stop and Short-Run functions more than the Remote Start. But, the real impetuous for my systems is that I enjoy doing projects like this, and get a sense of accomplishment every time I use them. Just like the OP will when he completes the install in his personal driver.

Yeah, I enjoy doing these little weekend diy projects, I like the one mile distance because there's a better chance of it starting when your downtown.