Relay Trigger Wire Chatter and PWM

Hello everyone I am trying to install a LED bar using my vehicles hi beam wire to trigger the relay for the bar. However when the hi beams are off the car uses PWM to cut the 12v to the hi beam down to ~6-8v for a dimmer Daytime running light which is making the relay “chatter” on and off. The head lights always have 12V then are grounded by an internal control unit. I am trying to avoid running any wires into the cabin and have the LED come on with the high beams. Is it safe and reliable to add a non directional capacitor onto the coil of the relay? Any other input or ideas will be appreciated, thank you!

2019 Subaru crosstrek premium with non led headlights, sorry forgot to add.

Just to clarify, you don't want the LED bar to come on with your daytime running lights, right? If I misunderstood, let me know. The simplest approach I can think of is adding a small resistor in series with your relay coil. Assuming your relay coil is in the ballpark of 75-80 ohms (most standard relays are), you can probably use some thing around 30-40 ohms. You could use a potentiometer to find a suitable value then get a fixed resistor of that value. The idea is to add enough resistance that the DRL's will no longer trigger the relay, but full voltage from the headlight switch will.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Try a resistor in series with the relay coil. You will have to do some experimenting to finding a compromise value that doesn't cause the relay to chatter with the DTR but will still reliably pull in with the high beams. Start with a value about 50% of the resistance of the relay coil and work from there.

Correct I would like it only to be on when high beams are on at full 12v to the trigger and not the reduced DRL voltage/cycle. Would heat be an issue with resistors? I would obviously not want to tape it up but seeing as it always is seeing some sort of current I assume it would get toasty? Is a capacitor in series with the coil not a good idea or would it still result in enough current drop that the relay would switch on and off?

Heat should not be an issue since current draw might be around 100-120 mA. Either a 1 or 2 watt resistor of your fixed value will be more than sufficient. You could even use one rated as "flameproof". A capacitor will not accomplish what you want.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Messing around with diagrams I was able to figure out a way using 2 more 5 pin relays to check for the low beams(thus DRL are disabled) and fog lights as well. First by hooking the low beam output to 86 and the hi beam to pin 30 of relay1 then From 87 to relay2 pin 30. From there take fog lamp output to pin 86 of relay2 (so led bar cannot be on with low beams and fogs) and take that output from 87a on relay 2 and bring it finally to the trigger wire to trigger the LED relay in the harness. This ensures that anytime the 12v makes it through to the led harness relay that the actual DRL system is disabled by ensuring the low beams are on (in this application they stay on with hi beams as well) Then relay2 checks to make sure the fog lamps aren’t also on so it doesn’t blind people and come on when low & fogs are on, that also closes the loop if for some reason you leave the low beams on without fogs too. These two extra relays completely remove the PWM signal from the trigger wire of the LED anytime it would be present. Sorry for making a post but at least it’s good reference if anyone else runs into this. Thank you for the ideas and input!