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2001 Chevrolet S-10 LS 4.3L, Power Window Conversion


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colonelbob 
Member - Posts: 3
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Joined: July 16, 2020
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: July 18, 2020 at 3:09 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote colonelbob
I am installing power windows and locks in my 2001 Chevy S10. I have experience with GM pre computer vehicles but not much with the 90’s and newer vehicles. I have created the system using oem switches for 2 doors. I have it laid out on my work bench and powered with a battery. It works. I use a positive trigger rely circuit for the locks. The oem master switch has internal relay for the windows. So I can create a harness and install and it will work.
What I haven’t figured out is where to get an ignition switched 12 volts for the power lead for the windows. I am avoiding the BCM but want to have the windows powered only when the ignition is on.
Thanks for your help.
Colonelbob
🧰 Bob
geepherder 
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Joined: October 27, 2003
Posted: July 18, 2020 at 6:12 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote geepherder
There will be a pink wire at the ignition harness that will be a good source of ignition power.
My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
brcidd 
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Joined: January 07, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: July 19, 2020 at 4:28 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote brcidd
I'd use the accessory circuit, so that windows can be rolled with key on or in accessory position. that would be the brown wire at ignition harness or better yet the fuse block accessory fuse- or wiper fuse- any open spot in that row on fuse block- just test for power in accessory mode and ignition mode.
Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
colonelbob 
Member - Posts: 3
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Joined: July 16, 2020
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: July 20, 2020 at 4:53 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote colonelbob
Thank you all for your prompt replies. After a lot of print scouring I found a unused circuit on the RAP buss with a 25 amp fuse in the dash fuse panel. I will use that circuit to trigger a 30/40 relay when the ignition is in run or accessory. I will take power to operate the window regulators from a 12 volt battery source with a 30 amp circuit breaker between the source and the regulator motors. This will allow me to use the factory switches. The lock circuit is a bit more complicated and I haven’t figured it out completely. In the factory
Schematic the lock circuit has 3 relays. A lock relay, a unlock relay and a driver’s side unlock relay. I haven’t figured this out yet as the factory system goes thru the body control module and I am trying to avoid that.
When I get a minute I will post the schematic.
However for the great help so far.
🧰 Bob
chevyboiwavy 
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Joined: July 01, 2020
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: July 22, 2020 at 11:42 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote chevyboiwavy
When you figure out the locks please update. I am doing the same thing. Except in a 2004 silverado. I got the windows to work along with the power mirrors but the power locks dont work. Was going to try and just hook them up to my alarm and just use that. But if you can figure out how to get the switch to work without messing with the bcm let me know.
colonelbob 
Member - Posts: 3
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Joined: July 16, 2020
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: July 31, 2020 at 8:09 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote colonelbob
Chevyboiwavy I have gotten the power locks to work with the factory switches. I make my own harness using TXL wire. You will need a wiring schematic to figure out your factory setup. I highly recommend a subscription to Alldatadiy.com for your truck. 2001 Chevrolet S-10 LS 4.3L, Power Window Conversion - Last Post -- posted image.
The photos are relay circuit I used for my locks and the factory schematic for the power lock switches in my 2001 S10.
In my vehicle the lock signal wire at the switch is LT Blue and the unlock signal wire is White. I used a two relay circuit (actually got the circuit from The 12 Volt website). From the switch the lock circuit has 4 wires, orange for 12 volt positive, black for ground, Lt Blue got the lock command and White for the unlock command. The lock actuators are controlled by the relays. The signal wires go to the relay lock and unlock command terminal. Just be sure that you connect lock signal wire from driver and passenger switches to each other and to the relay lock trigger. Do the same with the unlock signal wires to the relay unlock trigger. The wires from the switches is 22 gauge. Use 14 gauge TXL to wire the relays. Fuse the orange wire from the switch at no more than 5 amps ( factory is 3 amp. I used a 5 amp in line fuse).
When I create my harness I use factory wire colors in TXL or GXL wire in factory gauge or one gauge heavier. I prefer to error on the side of safety. I lay my window regulators and lock actuators out on my work bench and use a 12 volt battery for power. If I make it work on the bench, it will work in the vehicle. I have wired many vehicle options using this procedure.
I must say that from about 99 up it is getting much harder to add options due to all of the computers in these vehicles and the tightness of the engine compartment. Good luck on your project. Hope the photos show up.2001 Chevrolet S-10 LS 4.3L, Power Window Conversion - Last Post -- posted image.
🧰 Bob

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