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Alpine 8025 Removal, 1994 Ford F-250


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patricksull 
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Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: October 19, 2020 at 2:04 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote patricksull
Hello
I have a 1994 ford f250 that had this alarm in it. I removed the alarm and am now having trouble. Crank but no start. I have read in other posts that most older alarms don't go beyond the ignition switch (doesn't mess with fuel pump, injection, etc). I need help troubleshooting. There was no ignition wire that I found that was cut and a relay placed in between. Instead wires spliced into the existing wires. So, the simple solution of removing the relay and reconnecting the ignition wires to factory isn't an option. One relay was next to the unit itself, and a second relay was next to the solenoid. Alpine 8025 Removal, 1994 Ford F-250 - Last Post -- posted image. Alpine 8025 Removal, 1994 Ford F-250 - Last Post -- posted image. Alpine 8025 Removal, 1994 Ford F-250 - Last Post -- posted image. Alpine 8025 Removal, 1994 Ford F-250 - Last Post -- posted image. Alpine 8025 Removal, 1994 Ford F-250 - Last Post -- posted image.
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mgoetz74 
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Posted: October 19, 2020 at 4:04 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mgoetz74
12 Volts     yellow     +               
Starter     red/lt. blue     +               
Ignition     red/lt. green     +               
Accessory     gray/yellow and black/green +               
Second Accessory     gray/yellow 18awg    +
make sure you have power using a meter at these wires. You may have popped a ignition fuse. Id put money on something ignition/accessory. There shouldn't be immobilizer in that old of a truck     
33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!
patricksull 
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Posted: October 19, 2020 at 5:57 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote patricksull
Okay, thanks. I'll check those.
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patricksull 
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Posted: October 20, 2020 at 12:32 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote patricksull
Not sure about the colored wires you listed. I'll have to dig into the steering column. But, what I did find is of the spliced wires, the black with pink is 12v. The black with orange is 12v. The solid brown will go 12V which I crank. The yellow with brown will go 12V when I turn the ignition on (not cranking).
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patricksull 
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Posted: October 20, 2020 at 1:30 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote patricksull
Well, there are 4 yellow and 2 gray with yellow. Really tight fit in there. Most have 12v to them. One of the grey with yellow shows 12v with ignition on. The red with green is the same. Sorry, I'm not very good with the voltage meter. Some of them shoot up to 50, but it's digital, so the numbers are bouncing all over. I just touch the ground terminal to the door frame?
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geepherder 
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Posted: October 20, 2020 at 4:48 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote geepherder
You shouldn't have any readings above battery voltage. It may be that your meter is showing something in the millivolt range instead of volts. If this is the case, you should check your fuses (both in the cab and under the hood).
Also, I like to use the rim (outer portion) of the cigarette lighter output as a ground while testing.
My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
patricksull 
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Joined: October 14, 2020
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: October 20, 2020 at 9:16 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote patricksull
geepherder wrote:
Also, I like to use the rim (outer portion) of the cigarette lighter output as a ground while testing.
Good to know. Yeah, I am horrible with a voltage meter. So much you can do with those things IF you know how to use them. Okay, I'll try to redo my readings. Thank you...
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