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Compustar CSX-4900S, 2003 Ford F-250 Diesel


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 18, 2022 at 1:24 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
No worries. With a DIY install on a personal vehicle, you accept those minor issues. No wires were cut so the worst that happens is the R/S is out of commission, but the vehicle still works normally with a key.
T-Taps are another no-no for me. They can damage the vehicle wire, have reduced current transfer capabilities (thick ignition wires) and can't handle two different gauge wires. With age they can lose tension, etc.
Enjoy the new and improved truck!
Soldering is fun!
l-ight 
Member - Posts: 15
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Joined: May 17, 2022
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: May 18, 2022 at 1:43 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote l-ight
What would be a good alternative besides cutting/splicing/soldering?
Upon further research looks like I should have gotten some Posi-Taps. Those look great and secure.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 18, 2022 at 3:46 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Good question. I solder all my connections. Soldering isn't all that difficult and the cost of tools isn't very much. A decent soldering iron (Hakko FX600) can be had for $60. Kester 245 core solder is $10 for a small tube.
I do occasionally use Posi-Tap connectors to make a temporary connection on CAN wires during bypass module programming. These CAN wires are typically 20 or 22 gauge. I have heard that the Posi-Taps work well for permanent connections. They aren't cheap and they are gauge range specific.
Compustar CSX-4900S, 2003 Ford F-250 Diesel - Page 2 - Last Post -- posted image.
There is another way to make a decent connection in a favorable environment. It's called the "Poke and Twist" method. Description below.
This would be for your thick gauge vehicle ignition wires (but will work with thinner gauge wires). Strip about 3/4" inch insulation from the vehicles ignition wire in an accessible area. Strip about 1 1/4" insulation from the end of the R/S ignition wire and put a tight twist to the exposed strands of wire. Using a pointed plastic tool, separate the vehicles ignition wire braids into two equal parts creating a gap you can poke the R/S ignition wire through. Then tightly squeeze the separated wire back together and then wrap the R/S wire tightly around the exposed vehicle wire, both sides. Align the R/S wire with the vehicle wire and apply Scotch Super 33+ insulation tape. Use tie wraps to secure the R/S wire to the vehicle wire over the insulation tape and the other end of the insulated area. Some diagrams from Bulldog Security below :
Compustar CSX-4900S, 2003 Ford F-250 Diesel - Page 2 - Last Post -- posted image.
Soldering is fun!
l-ight 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: May 17, 2022
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: May 19, 2022 at 6:14 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote l-ight
Thank you for helping me, btw. I hope this can help others in the future.
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