2008 Honda Civic, iDatalink, ADS-AL

I just purchased the vehicle. I found the ADAS-AL under the dash and was trying to figure out how to program. It think it is supposed to work with an OEM key for remote start. Just don't know the steps involved to see if it will work? Thanks for any help! Johnny

iDatalink (manufacturer of the ADS-ALCA bypass module) did not make a "stand-alone" solution for the 2008 Honda Civic. Therefore, there should be another device connected to the ADS-ALCA module and the Civic under the dash. You should take another look to see if there is a Remote Start Controller wired in to the vehicle and the ADS-ALCA. Typically, the ADS-ALCA is flashed with the correct firmware for your 2008 Civic application (ADS-AL(DL)-HA2) prior to install and then, during install it is programmed to the vehicle. After it's programmed and tested, the ADS-ALCA retains it's programming, even if removed from the car or the vehicles battery dies and is replaced. Look for an antenna on the windshield and the additional remote start controller to help the forum assist you. It is possible that the remote start system was installed and working properly but later partially removed by someone (typically a car dealer) for some reason. Here is a link to the current ADS-ALCA with HA2 firmware install guide for your application : https://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA2/ADS-AL(DL)-HA2-EN_20171227.pdfSoldering is fun!

Found the remote start controller by Directed Electronics. Looks like it is still wired in. I'm not sure its activating as the indicator light doesn't show any activation when turning the key on. The OEM key doesn't activate the remote start after pressing the buttons three times. Should I try to program again? Customer wants a spare key as well. Not sure how that would affect the system if I ever get it to work :)

Any antenna connected to the DEI Remote Start controller? Any model number on the DEI Remote Start controller? Are to two 30 Amp fuses still plugged in and good on the two R/S Red power wires? Depending on the DEI R/S model, there could be a White Blue wire in a 9 Pin connector. It is called the Activation input wire and should be unused. As a test you could apply a chassis ground monetarily to the White/Blue wire to initiate a remote start sequence. Adding another vehicle ignition key shouldn't have any effect on the R/S system. That car should have a chipped key so you will have to go thru that process.Soldering is fun!

The Fuses are intact. I'll be going over tomorrow to check the model number and carry out the test you gave me on the blue white wire if it's there. I did notice a green wire that was snipped and hanging unconnected to anything. Thanks for guiding me through this.

I found antenna. There is a toggle switch under the dash. I tried the test with the blue white wire but nothing happened even with toggling the toggle switch I found under the dash hanging loose. Directed Electronics model is 4X03. I have pics of the devices if needed, but don't think I'm allowed to upload them yet.

The Green wire, if it is coming from a 3 pin connector (with a Blue wire and an empty pin), is probably the "not used" Unlock output wire. The toggle switch is called the Shutdown switch. It might be marked but you can try either position. The White/Blue wire from the 9 pin connector should initiate a remote start with either one, two or three (-) pulses (depending on 4x03 programming). Of course, there are several other conditions that must be met for a successful remote start. The hood must be closed, the brake pedal must not be depressed, the 4x03 Neutral Safety Input wire must see a (-) signal. The Neutral Safety wire is Black/White in the H2 five pin harness. It can be connected to the vehicles Parking Brake wire or directly to chassis ground. I'm assuming the vehicle has an auto trans (the 4x03 is designed and for use in auto trans vehicles only). Here is a link to the 4203 install guide :   https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1194 The one button 2 way remotes are available online if you can get it to test OK. Soldering is fun!